Chuck’s engine build thread!

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Poppy 87

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2 observations Chuck. Do you know what torque converter that is? That was not installed by the general. If you pulled out camel hump heads, check casting number/date codes. Numbers matching guys will pay $$ for them. Good luck. For what its worth, I always replace cam bearings.
 

ChuckN

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2 observations Chuck. Do you know what torque converter that is? That was not installed by the general. If you pulled out camel hump heads, check casting number/date codes. Numbers matching guys will pay $$ for them. Good luck. For what its worth, I always replace cam bearings.
Thanks for chiming in! Brodix heads are going on the 388 build, so the old heads are already sold.

Good eagle eye on the torque converter! It’s one that I had custom ordered and built locally, roughly 2500 stall.
 

ChuckN

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The Comp Cams DLC (diamond like carbon) lifters showed up. Taper shows everything looks ok. Heard good stuff about these from people. Apparently it really helps it survive break in.
 

Craig Nedrow

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I haven't read this whole thread, but assume you will use a good assembly lube. I also take my inner spring out and run it 15 minutes at 1500 RPM. At the shop we have a dyno program, but that works fine at home. They also make lighter springs.
 

ChuckN

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Heard good stuff about this Isky lube.
As far as springs go, I called Comp and they said the springs I have (recommended for the cam) and the pressure open and at seat is good for break in. They only have non-removable damper spring anyway.
 

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I haven't seen anything on new cam specs? Did I just overlook it?
 

ChuckN

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I haven't seen anything on new cam specs? Did I just overlook it?
I’m using the XE274H Comp Cams. Some have said they’re a little hard on the valvetrain because of the ramps, but for such a small cam, they get great results
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With 1.52 rockers, will be right around .500 lift.

Golds Garage dynoed it (383) at 450hp, and above 2500, has 400+ft-lb across the board. Dart heads and a 650 Demon carb.
Holdener dynoed a 383 with cheap Speedmaster knock off heads and a cheap no name intake and still got 410 hp.

With my Brodix IK200 heads, and Performer RPM, I’ll be happy if I get 430, but the real treat is the fat torque curve. Which is good with the C10.
 

ChuckN

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Got a digital micrometer and some v-blocks to check lobe taper. I set up a jig to slide the cam back and forth on each lobe. My search says about .0015 taper is good, and these all checked out perfectly. Just dotting my I’s and crossing my T’s since there is constant talk about flat tappet quality.
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xm20k

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Basic Operating RPM Range:
1,800-6,000
Duration at 050 inch Lift:
230 int./236 exh.
Advertised Duration:
274 int./286 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:
0.487 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:
0.490 in.
Lobe Separation (degrees):
110
Grind Number:
CS XE274H-10

Not bad should have some good low end and should pull decently hard, have enough vacuum for breaks, the 110 lobe sep will idle fairly smooth for the duration. However, I'd probably go a bit bigger on the carb 700-750 you're filling a 388.
 

ChuckN

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Basic Operating RPM Range:
1,800-6,000
Duration at 050 inch Lift:
230 int./236 exh.
Advertised Duration:
274 int./286 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:
0.487 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:
0.490 in.
Lobe Separation (degrees):
110
Grind Number:
CS XE274H-10

Not bad should have some good low end and should pull decently hard, have enough vacuum for breaks, the 110 lobe sep will idle fairly smooth for the duration. However, I'd probably go a bit bigger on the carb 700-750 you're filling a 388.
Yeah, I’m thinking that too. With 1.52 Ultra Pro magnum rockers will be right about .500 lift.

Rather than getting rid of the 650 AVS and tuning a 750 Holley, I’m considering going Sniper 2.
 

bluex

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Yeah, I’m thinking that too. With 1.52 Ultra Pro magnum rockers will be right about .500 lift.

Rather than getting rid of the 650 AVS and tuning a 750 Holley, I’m considering going Sniper 2.

If you do, skip the timing control an just run it with a good hei. I also dont use the modules they offer, the system is easy enough to wire, no need to make it more complicated than necessary.
 

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