77 C20 2WD Camper Special front lift options?

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78C10BigTen

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Regular hammer,you just need to know how and where to hit them.Put some pressure up with a prybar on the tie rod hit the socket from the side hard with a hammer,the vibration pops them apart. Ball joints back the nuts off to their ends and again big hammer whack from the side. If they won't pop screw 2 bolts into a coupling nut put it between the 2 ball joint studs and unscrew the bolts from the coupling nut it will push the ball joints out. Grind the markings off the top of the bolts and use a big drill bit to put divots on the tops of the bolts so the don't walk off the ball joint studs. I'll see if I can a YouTube video if I do I'll post it here,check back. You have to hit them hard sometimes and git em more than once not tap tap,oh this doesn't work. It does its how I've done the literally decades. 99.9 effective. With just a hammer and pry bar the extra pressure of the prybar makes them pop easier,the spring acts as the pressure with ball joints . If they just won't pop use the 2 bolts for more presdure whacknthem again. Remember your hitting the socket from the side.
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Ive tried that before without the bar and never had luck. Alotta people i know tell me to do that method
 

Ricko1966

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Ive tried that before without the bar and never had luck. Alotta people i know tell me to do that method
It's my go too and almost always works. The reason it's my first go is,as soon as you get a pickle fork,you can count on needing new ball joint boots. Now a customer isn't going to understand why they need new ball joint boots if I wasn't replacing balljoints.
 

johnfl

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Well, it's actually a 2 wheel drive C20 Camper Special like mine. I don't want to lift it to look like a 4x4 like that guy did. I probably shouldn't have sent that since it's like apples and oranges. Perhaps I'll mockup mine with just a touch of lift. That way I can make sure I'm not crazy - or you guys can confirm that I am :)
Did you end up doing anymore to yours? Im based in Australia with a 1976 C20 2WD and wanted to do a 2" lift but gave up as the options seemed limited.
 

bucket

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bucket

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Elaborate doctor... lol

I prefer for the control arm to be solidly attached and only able to pivot on one axis. I'd rather it not be able to move all about when it's time to put it back together and there's a loaded spring just itchin' to do something.
 

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I'd just rather give the steering knuckle a couple good whammies and let it pop loose. I find it very satisfying.
Hammer and a smile is what I always did until the event I linked. Since then, spreader for the win.
 

idahovette

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I like the BFH method, used it exclusively for the better part of 60 years. Also the old joke.....Guy goes to his mechanic askes for a bid, mechanic says $50, guy says I would like to see an itemized account, Mechanic writes the bid...... Hitting with hammer $10....knowing where to hit $40 ;)
 

Logbed

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I installed these spring spacers below the front springs of my C10:
Got the thinnest ones that were supposed to lift an inch but lifted a bit more than 1.5 inches. Might depend on springs, mine are stated heavy duty in the glove box? Wouldnt lift more since the outward travel of the suspension would run out.

Just got 33x12.50R15 Mud Terrains on the original optional 8x15 GM wagon wheels. Ive come up from 275/60 to 31", 32" and now with 33"'s it really looks the way I like!

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10
 

jetdexter

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Thanks everyone for all that help. Yes, it does seem exactly what I was wondering. It's such a hassle dealing with those ball joints, as compared to 4 bolts and drop the arm from the back. I realize it means that it's sqirly going back together, so I guess that's the only real down-side. I wonder if I could create a channel for it to lock into. The fact that it will lower so much further to accept an uncompressed spring is inviting, and that guy reconnected it with one hand LOL.

Anyway- I'll think about this for a week or so and let you know what I picked!

Yes! @Logbed I did buy a pair of those from Spindle Source (though theirs state 2" and I don't know if that's going to do too much. Perhaps I'll grab a pair of those you used. the consensus in this thread is that the new springs alone should lift me some (perhaps enough) as mine are 50 years old (even though they are already the HD springs, so I'm not increasing anything other than replacing with fresh springs of the same nature). Update- I just bought their thinnest, so now I've got that thin pair, plus the SS pair. I'll see which work best.
 
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78C10BigTen

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I installed these spring spacers below the front springs of my C10:
Got the thinnest ones that were supposed to lift an inch but lifted a bit more than 1.5 inches. Might depend on springs, mine are stated heavy duty in the glove box? Wouldnt lift more since the outward travel of the suspension would run out.

Just got 33x12.50R15 Mud Terrains on the original optional 8x15 GM wagon wheels. Ive come up from 275/60 to 31", 32" and now with 33"'s it really looks the way I like!

You must be registered for see images attach
10
I have a pair of those for my s10 but i wasnt real sure i liked the idea of them. Your truck looks sweet!! And i love those bfgs!
 

78C10BigTen

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@78C10BigTen I've used those shim/spacers many times and had very good luck with them. They will raise your rig at least 2, maybe 2 and a half times the thickness of them.
Im un sure where ta go because i need to do ball joints so i thought why not get new springs and lift spindles and do em all at the same time.
 

idahovette

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Well sure, break out the credit card, Ted. Nah, if you're gonna do it, do it right like you said. Like @Grit dog always says "Buy once, Cry once"
 

78C10BigTen

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Well sure, break out the credit card, Ted. Nah, if you're gonna do it, do it right like you said. Like @Grit dog always says "Buy once, Cry once"
Contrary to popular believe i dont have a credit card and in my 38 years, never have
 

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