Refresh in near future

[CountKrunk]

My alt was a reman delco and the new one is from jegs. So fingers crossed

 

[idahovette]

So @Grit dog all my "hoarding" that the kids will have to clean up?.........that's called KHARMA...........lol

 

[Sad Sack]

But that’s the reason you lost more weight than a Jenny Craig plan for the week. Sweating it out lol.
Sounds like you did this like an old pro.
Regarding keeping parts, yes reman stuff is spotty quality these days, but it’s kinda splitting hairs to say something 40 years old is either A original or B better to rebuild yourself. Personally I’d never swap out a non leaking original steering pump. But that’s me.
Otherwise, think of the kids….and quit rat holing stuff that is gonna get tossed in ______ years.
I believe that anyone who is really inclined to “save everything” has not had to deal with cleaning/clearing out their household or (more often) their older relatives/parents stuff. Because once you doo the latter, you should realize how much chit your kids are gonna have to deal with and basically pay to remove (garbage).
JMO

Nothing beats the ad on Craigslist that says "FREE STUFF".

 

[CountKrunk]

Or a divorce sale haha

 

[hey mister]

I agree...reman'd stuff is questionable at best.
Oreiley wanted 270 for a reman'd p/s pump.
I got a new Tuff Stuff Borgenson for under 200.
The fuel pump is a new Holley.
The starter is new, not reman'd.
Nothing I bolted on is reman'd.
I have been collecting parts for 2 years.

I would go to Summit, pruse the "Demo" racks. If something looked like it would fit, I would take it to the Tech desk and have them pull it up and check fitment.
Seriously, I'd hit summit 100 times a year...i.e. at least twice a week.
I struck out most of the time, but when I scored, a $300 starter, might be 65.
The flex plate, Starter, Alt, water pump, pulley set, brackets, fuel pump and stainless headers and 2-1/2" stainless exhaust and 1 muffler were all in the "demo" isle.
I had to buy a matching muffler to complete the exhsust last summer.
The dizzy, P/S pump and gaskets/seals were all full price, not counting loyality bucks.
Easily $3k+ in parts for under 1k.
I just had to be patient and work the plan.
I had a list of what I wanted to do.
AS you can see, it's not a perfect, parts matching, show piece.
It's a mutt, but that dog will hunt.

Next year, the interior is the plan. And I have already collected all the sound/heat shielding material needed...all thru the demo rack.

 

[hey mister]

Update:
Went for about a half hour drive to a rootbeer stand, had dinner and made a couple stops on the way back home.
Popped the hood and took a flashlight to all the nooks and crannies.
Other than a possible spot on the pass rocker cover,,,I am thrilled to report, No runs, No drips, No errors!
Yea.! I am so thrilled.

 

[Grit dog]

Update:
Went for about a half hour drive to a rootbeer stand, had dinner and made a couple stops on the way back home.
Popped the hood and took a flashlight to all the nooks and crannies.
Other than a possible spot on the pass rocker cover,,,I am thrilled to report, No runs, No drips, No errors!
Yea.! I am so thrilled.

He’ll yeah!

 

[hey mister]

Probably last post on this one, seeings how everything looks good.

I just wanted to share the dizzy re-purpose oil pump driver..
Took the original dizzy, havked off the top, pressed out the bushing from the top and pressed it into the shaft housing.
Slipped on a spring hose clamp to keep the shaft from dropping down into the block. And since I can see the oil pan from up top, the possibility exists.

 

[Scruffy49]

And this just cracks me up....
Ground strap from motor to pass side firewall...
Held on by a 10mm bolt...freaking metric....

It shouldn't surprise me...I had a ford f150 and the bumper bolts were imperial. In fact, most of the frame bolts were imperial. Inside door sticker said made in canada...

Had a 77 F100 that should not have existed, all stock. 302, C5 transmission, 5 lug full floater Dana 44. USA built truck, transmission and rear axle tags had Argentina on them…

My 85 C10 swb has an equal oem mix of SAE and metric fasteners. And those f’n Torx screws in about 8 different tiny sizes…

 

[78C10BigTen]

Got the hi press line after a hard trek in the woods with friends. (I needed a break)
Got home and just wasn't motivated to git'er'dun.
It's just so hot/humid.
The plan is to git-2it in the early morning coolness.
Lord willing, it shant take long.
Funny, I've lost 5lbs last week...I guess that's what happens when one gets the rear in gear....lol

So, I guess I have a bit of a quandry...
What to do with the old parts? I replaced a few parts I didn't have to...but because they were 47 (assumed) years old, I saw no reason not to. I was in there and they were off the engine.
P/s pump. Alt. Starter. Fuel pump.
I hate to just throw them out....and dag-gum that starter is a tank.
I really don't need more "gems" stuffed under a shelf, in a corner somewhere.
I think some of this comes from my parents being raised during the depression. "Don't throw that out...you never know when you might need one."
I could set them out at the road...some "I kant pass a p1ss test" scrapper will take them to the scrapyard.
Maybe that's what I'll do, and get some donut $.
Decissions...decissions...

Why is that hose from the water pump so long???

 

[hey mister]

Why is that hose from the water pump so long???

It goes to the heater core.

 

[78C10BigTen]

It goes to the heater core.

It looks like you have it looped off though...

 

[DoubleDingo]

It looks like you have it looped off though...

Not sure which pic you're referring to, I went to one where the engine was stabbed, and the hoses were linked/coupled together with a reducer fitting. I do this on all my old trucks so the cab doesn't get overly hot in the summertime. I have a matching loop on the heater core side. Come wintertime, undo the loops, reconnect the 5/8 and 3/4 hoses with appropriately sized fittings, and then there's heat in the cab.

 

[Ricko1966]

Not sure which pic you're referring to, I went to one where the engine was stabbed, and the hoses were linked/coupled together with a reducer fitting. I do this on all my old trucks so the cab doesn't get overly hot in the summertime. I have a matching loop on the heater core side. Come wintertime, undo the loops, reconnect the 5/8 and 3/4 hoses with appropriately sized fittings, and then there's heat in the cab.

You know you can get a heater control valve that is a bypass. Flip one direction it's straight through in and out. Flip the other direction,in and out go through the heater core. Common GM heater valve starting probably mid 80s. Just for fun I'm going to search 1999 Escalade and see what pops up.BRB.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[DoubleDingo]

You know you can get a heater control valve that is a bypass. Flip one direction it's straight through in and out. Flip the other direction,in and out go through the heater core. Common GM heater valve starting probably mid 80s. Just for fun I'm going to search 1999 Escalade and see what pops up.BRB.

You must be registered for see images attach

I do, just haven't done it yet. Thanks for posting the part, two on order