Ignition Switch

[AaronW]

Bit of a hail mary here, wondering if anybody's got an ignition switch that will fit a 1989 V3500. I put an aftermarket one in about a year ago, and I think it's failing already; in warm weather, the truck occasionally won't start, which was the problem I was having with my original one. Anybody got an OEM sitch they'd part with?

Aaron

 

[Chevy 88]

Bit of a hail mary here, wondering if anybody's got an ignition switch that will fit a 1989 V3500. I put an aftermarket one in about a year ago, and I think it's failing already; in warm weather, the truck occasionally won't start, which was the problem I was having with my original one. Anybody got an OEM sitch they'd part with?

Aaron

As long as the steering wheel unlocks, I would just build your own personal anti theft starting system.

You could take the keys to any one of my ... I don't know, 12 or 15 vehicles (not sure how many off hand) - and none of them would start with the key. You can unlock the door and unlock the steering wheel with the key, but that's it. You need to know where the hidden button, switch, lever, or what ever basic anti-theft system is in place to start the vehicle. Some switches disable fuel management, some disable the fuel pump, some disable the distributor, some disable the starter, some do other things that will not allow the vehicle to start.

So just build your own custom starting procedure and be sure that it will never be stolen. Its free, its reliable, and its worth the peace of mind of knowing that your rig will be in your driveway tomorrow morning.

 

[75gmck25]

What is the exact problem? Doesn’t turn over the starter at all, turns over and doesn’t fire, etc.

You also have an ECU, injectors, electric fuel pump, and other electronics in an ‘89, so the switch might not be the problem.

 

[AaronW]

So a year or so ago, I was having starting issues that I traced to the ignition switch on top of the column under the dash so not the lock cylinder. (Per Edelbrock's point, you don't need to lock vehicles around here). My old ignition switch was malfunctioning when the weather got hot, and it would work once the truck had cooled off, so I concluded that there must have been something about the expansion of the metal in the contact points that was making the switch not work, in combination with over 40 years of regular wear and tear. I installed a new switch, and it worked fine, until recently, when I've started to observe the same problem. It will just click, and not start, but after you've turned the key a few times, it will generally start, and I notice the problem when the truck is hot and so is the weather (at least for here).

That's what I know. Oh, and that switch was one of the few things that didn't get replaced, when we did a total rehab on the truck, so the starter etc should be fine. (yeah yeah, stung by the should-bee).

Aaron

 

[Ricko1966]

So a year or so ago, I was having starting issues that I traced to the ignition switch on top of the column under the dash so not the lock cylinder. (Per Edelbrock's point, you don't need to lock vehicles around here). My old ignition switch was malfunctioning when the weather got hot, and it would work once the truck had cooled off, so I concluded that there must have been something about the expansion of the metal in the contact points that was making the switch not work, in combination with over 40 years of regular wear and tear. I installed a new switch, and it worked fine, until recently, when I've started to observe the same problem. It will just click, and not start, but after you've turned the key a few times, it will generally start, and I notice the problem when the truck is hot and so is the weather (at least for here).

That's what I know. Oh, and that switch was one of the few things that didn't get replaced, when we did a total rehab on the truck, so the starter etc should be fine. (yeah yeah, stung by the should-bee).

Aaron

Check the voltage at the solenoid signal,yep you'll need a friend,check the voltage at the battery cable at the starter, remember the voltage.Check the voltage at the trigger wire and compare the voltage readings. If they are within 1/4 volt,ignition switch is not the problem. If they are not within 1/4 volt check input voltage to the switch and signal out voltage if they are within 1/4 volt the switch is not the problem.

 

[kkgp81]

Check your adjustment of the switching block ( I don't know what its called) down on the steering column. The issue originally was probably this and the new switch may have pushed the starting rod further. The block has some adjustment on it.

 

[bucket]

Check your adjustment of the switching block ( I don't know what its called) down on the steering column. The issue originally was probably this and the new switch may have pushed the starting rod further. The block has some adjustment on it.

Agreed, the switch may be out of adjustment.

Also, if an auto trans, the neutral safety switch can cause the same symptoms as a failing ignition switch. Next time it doesn't start, try cranking it with the shifter in neutral instead of park.

 

[Dejure]

Yep. Just dropped $60.00 for ANOTHER headlight switch, because the 2 month old one wanted to play the intermittent game.

 

[Ricko1966]

Yep. Just dropped $60.00 for ANOTHER headlight switch, because the 2 month old one wanted to play the intermittent game.

What is the intermittent game?

 

[kkgp81]

What is the intermittent game?

Randomly working or not working.

 

[Ricko1966]

Randomly working or not working.

Was asking @Dejure specifically, what he meant by the intermittent game. GM headlights will go on and off if there is a short or excessive resistance between the headlight switch and the headlights. They are designed that way intentionally. Again @Dejure what do you mean the intermittent game,what symptoms do your lights have.

 

[bucket]

Was asking @Dejure specifically, what he meant by the intermittent game. GM headlights will go on and off if there is a short or excessive resistance between the headlight switch and the headlights. They are designed that way intentionally. Again @Dejure what do you mean the intermittent game,what symptoms do your lights have.

Interesting. Years ago I had a Camaro where the headlights would randomly quit working for several minutes. I checked and cleaned the grounds for the front light harness and the problem has never come back. It's been at least 15 years. My friend owns the car now.

 

[Dejure]

Was asking @Dejure specifically, what he meant by the intermittent game. GM headlights will go on and off if there is a short or excessive resistance between the headlight switch and the headlights. They are designed that way intentionally. Again @Dejure what do you mean the intermittent game,what symptoms do your lights have.

I worked in electronics for the feds, as a civilian working for the Navy, a bunch of years back. One of the things we dreaded the most was, intermittent problems - there one moment and not the next. The U.S. Navy has lost millions to guys like me having to chase down those kinds of problems.

A month or so back, I swapped out the headlight switch because the ceramic holding the dimmer wire was broke and it, otherwise, had issues. Now, a month or two later, I was having problems again. I pulled the headlight switch out and there were no lights. Because I have part of the dash off for other reasons, accessing the headlight switch takes about fifteen seconds. I took advantage of that to insure the connector was making contact all the way around (had that problem once). No effect. Did the wiggle thing here, there and elsewhere. No effect. Grounds are all good, because I took care of them not long back, and they show good on a meter.

On a whim, completely pulled the switch and took it into the shop. IT WAS INTERMITTENT. Not a common thing, but it happens.

To be honest, the switch never felt quite right from the day I got it. Played with the switch knob (on and off, out. . . .) and, when it read on again at the lamps, via the 12v input, I plugged it back in. Lights came on. Grudgingly, I bit the bullet and bough another switch. The problem has not resurfaced.

The NEW new switch feels different than the old new switch. The knob rod slides in and out smoother, and when you press the release button (after pulling all the way out and a bit back in), actually works smoothly to release the knob rod. And it does so without cocking at a slightly weird angle. Who knows, a bit of broken plastic inside here or there. . . (not committed to dissecting it quite yet, though I've done it to switches that went south in the past, just because of curiosity. Don't remember if they went back together smoothly or not. it's been forty or so years).

 

[Chevy 88]

I worked in electronics for the feds, as a civilian working for the Navy, a bunch of years back. One of the things we dreaded the most was, intermittent problems - there one moment and not the next. The U.S. Navy has lost millions to guys like me having to chase down those kinds of problems.

I swapped out the headlight switch because the ceramic holding the dimmer wire was broke and it, otherwise, had issues. Now, a month or two later, I was having problems again. I pulled the headlight switch out and there were no lights. Because I have part of the dash off for other reasons, accessing the headlight switch is a seconds consuming thing. I took advantage of that to insure the connector was making contact all the way around (had that problem once). No effect. Did the wiggle thing here, there and elsewhere. No effect. Grounds are all good, because I took care of them not long back, and they show good on a meter.

On a whim, pulled the switch and took it into the shop. IT WAS INTERMITTENT. Not a common thing, but it happens. To be honest, the switch never felt right from the day I got it. Played with the switch knob (on and off, out. . . .) and, when it read on at the lamps through the 12v input, I plugged it back in. Lights came on. I bit the bullet and bough another switch. The problem has not resurfaced.

Yep, intermittent problems are the worst.

 

[SquareRoot]

As long as the steering wheel unlocks, I would just build your own personal anti theft starting system.

You could take the keys to any one of my ... I don't know, 12 or 15 vehicles (not sure how many off hand) - and none of them would start with the key. You can unlock the door and unlock the steering wheel with the key, but that's it. You need to know where the hidden button, switch, lever, or what ever basic anti-theft system is in place to start the vehicle. Some switches disable fuel management, some disable the fuel pump, some disable the distributor, some disable the starter, some do other things that will not allow the vehicle to start.

So just build your own custom starting procedure and be sure that it will never be stolen. Its free, its reliable, and its worth the peace of mind of knowing that your rig will be in your driveway tomorrow morning.

You're an "Einstein"!