What have you done to your square lately??

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

JamesSam

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2023
Posts
1,160
Reaction score
3,140
Location
VA
First Name
Sam
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
Silverado V10
Engine Size
5.7 L 350 v8
Nothing it's cool and rainy season here. 50 and rain all day this week. Maybe I can patch the leak in the radiator this weekend if it don't rain. But, I ain't holding my breath. This is the time I hate not having a garage or carport to work under.
Same here!! I need a house for my truck. Carport. Garage. Bummer.
 

Girth

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2023
Posts
72
Reaction score
197
Location
Olympia WA
First Name
Garth
Truck Year
1989
Truck Model
V2500 Suburban
Engine Size
350
Oh thanks for sharing. That gives me a good idea when I go get an estimate for mine.

It looks great. I assume you didn’t have to replace the foam. Or did you?

The foam on the drivers side edge of my seat was a bit torn up, wear from the original seat cover being ripped. He didn't replace foam, but said he usually likes to rebuild with a new 1in layer on top? "Repaired and recovered" basically.

Reminds me though..... I think I'm missing a piece from the seat hinge. Noticed it when I removed the seat to drop it off. The seat back should have a latch right, so it doesn't just flip forward? Looks like theres an arm on hinge, but I think I'm missing a spring and handle maybe? Looked on LMC and it's not a part they show or list....
 

mtbadbob

Full Access Member
Joined
May 9, 2021
Posts
629
Reaction score
948
Location
Montana
First Name
Bob
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
V20
Engine Size
350
Stupid easy. I just unscrewed mine, unplugged it without letting the wire unroll, plugged it into the new sensor, then screwed the new sensor in. Done.
I just fixed my passenger side switch also. The switch was fairly new, but there was no wire attached. I disconnected the rubber wire grommet from the cab that goes to the door, then I was able to stick my fingers in there and grab the door switch wire that was bound up between the kick panel & cab. The wire had a terminal from the old broken switch on it so pulled that off. I run a long zip tie through the switch hole & out the door wire hole on the cab & was able to tape the switch wire to zip tie and carefully pull it out the switch hole. All that said, now my dome & interior lights work when either door opens!
 
Last edited:

mtbadbob

Full Access Member
Joined
May 9, 2021
Posts
629
Reaction score
948
Location
Montana
First Name
Bob
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
V20
Engine Size
350
@Bextreme04 A few questions: What year is your truck? Mine is an 87 V10. I want to replace my door light switches and I see different versions in different catalogues for 81-87 and not sure which to buy. The drivers side will only stay on if I mess with it for several minutes and get it to a particular spot other wise it stays off unless, well, you mess with the button. I will eventually be looking at what I have in my door and see if it is obvious which one I should buy. Is the switch easy to unscrew or are there several steps to getting them out? Also I read that you didn't let the wire unroll. How bad would it be if the wire did unroll? Any info would help. I'm in for the night, otherwise I would be looking at my door. You can DM if you would rather but I don't mind it being in the thread.
Sometimes the contact pin will rotate, free from the threaded body of the switch. I squirted mine with a little PB Blaster and rotated it by hand before I screwed the switch in. I'm not sure if the wire still twisted as I tightened the switch, but all is well with the interior lights when the door opens! I think your switch should be like a 10mm to get it in & out.
 

TotalyHucked

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2020
Posts
2,761
Reaction score
8,930
Location
Auburn, Georgia
First Name
Zach
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
Sierra 1500
Engine Size
5.3
The foam on the drivers side edge of my seat was a bit torn up, wear from the original seat cover being ripped. He didn't replace foam, but said he usually likes to rebuild with a new 1in layer on top? "Repaired and recovered" basically.

Reminds me though..... I think I'm missing a piece from the seat hinge. Noticed it when I removed the seat to drop it off. The seat back should have a latch right, so it doesn't just flip forward? Looks like theres an arm on hinge, but I think I'm missing a spring and handle maybe? Looked on LMC and it's not a part they show or list....
I've only heard of a seat back having a latch one time, somewhere on this forum. I've never seen one of these trucks that had a seat latch, my seat in my '85 just leans forward if you pull on it. Our '76 shop truck, the seat doesn't move and the other seats in our various parts trucks do not have latches. They just move
 

1980_C10_STEPSIDE

Junior Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2023
Posts
24
Reaction score
77
Location
Seattle, Washington
First Name
Salvador
Truck Year
1980
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
350
Stupid easy. I just unscrewed mine, unplugged it without letting the wire unroll, plugged it into the new sensor, then screwed the new sensor in. Done.
That’s correct, it was very easy to do. I think I spent more time searching for the part than installing it.
 

1980_C10_STEPSIDE

Junior Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2023
Posts
24
Reaction score
77
Location
Seattle, Washington
First Name
Salvador
Truck Year
1980
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
350
How was it replacing the door light switches?!! I need to do this on my truck, but have not looked into the process at all.
Mine were so rusted, so I made sure to brush the wire connection. As son as I plugged it and the switch made ground with the door frame, the lights turned on.
 

Travlr

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2023
Posts
183
Reaction score
562
Location
Central Utah
First Name
C
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
K20 Camper Special
Engine Size
350
Same here!! I need a house for my truck. Carport. Garage. Bummer.
Build one... I wanted a 24x24 shop and priced one with a local outfit. A simple pole barn configuration with a big opening on one side. No floor, no wiring, no doors, was quoted at 20K. I built it myself with a concrete floor, big sliding doors, man door, and sub'd out the electrical... total price 12K. It took me three months of pretty relaxed effort.
 
Last edited:

justhorns

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2022
Posts
237
Reaction score
610
Location
Denver
First Name
Lee
Truck Year
81
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
250
My truck never had a front sway bar. Pulled into the shop earlier this week to try installing new sway bar from Classic industries. Not the right bar. 10" too wide? must have been for a 4WD. Not sure. Wrong brackets. Put it back in the box and returned it. Listing was for a 2wd. While at that, I tried fixing my tranny leak. Now, since I fixed the shifter rod seals, it was leaking worse. Got under there and found it leaking badly out speedo cable port. Replaced the entire cable/gear assembly. Found the top inner seal was shot. Replaced and looks like the leak is now gone. The white seal shown in center photo was shot. Replaced old with new shown $12 from Summit.
While underneath, changed oil from 10/40 to 5/30 for winter (Penn grade semi synthetic with ZINC).
Also, removed carburetor for adjustment (the Rochester VAriJet 2 on the 250-6) has a non reachable idle/mid range mixture adjustment screw. I made a special tool for the screw, and adjusted the screw in (I was too rich), replaced the carb with a choke adjustment also, and got everything back together. The adjusting screw is inside that tube under the nearest vacuum hose. Only 2" to valve cover. The screw is about ½"down that tube. It was originally totally hidden and you have to cut the carb to get at it.

I think the truck is running great with no leaks from tranny. Parked the truck in (my wife's) driveway to check for leaks. Wish me luck.. No, I think I got it this time.
 

Attachments

  • Ralph the Chevy c10 - 1 of 3.jpeg
    Ralph the Chevy c10 - 1 of 3.jpeg
    111.6 KB · Views: 24
  • Ralph the Chevy c10 - 2 of 3.jpeg
    Ralph the Chevy c10 - 2 of 3.jpeg
    61 KB · Views: 25
  • Ralph the Chevy c10 - 3 of 3.jpeg
    Ralph the Chevy c10 - 3 of 3.jpeg
    40.3 KB · Views: 25
  • All Photos - 1 of 1 (14).jpeg
    All Photos - 1 of 1 (14).jpeg
    98.5 KB · Views: 23

mtbadbob

Full Access Member
Joined
May 9, 2021
Posts
629
Reaction score
948
Location
Montana
First Name
Bob
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
V20
Engine Size
350
Some of those carbs had a plug over the f/a screw that you had to drill and then pop out to get at the adjustment screw. I've seen that on a lot of motorcycles as well. In fact, I still have a little flat blade screwdriver bent at a 90 to adjust Harley carb's, as the fuel tanks stuck out so far and you couldn't get a straight shot at the adjustment screw!
 

brooksman9

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2021
Posts
359
Reaction score
942
Location
Olive Branch, MS
First Name
Patrick
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
Silverado & Custom Deluxe
Engine Size
350 & 305
Added some Kilmat behind the seat and in the doors to help with the sound. Probably going to get some carpet for this one and do the floor too. Also replaced the vent window latches.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
 

PrairieDrifter

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2014
Posts
3,472
Reaction score
4,600
Location
North Dakota
First Name
Mason
Truck Year
84,79,77,70,48
Truck Model
Suburban k10, bonanza k10, c30 C&C, c10, gmc 1/2ton
Engine Size
350, 350, 350, 350, 350
Got her done last week. A few hundred on her already. Way better.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
 

82sbshortbed

Fuckemall!!
Joined
Mar 1, 2018
Posts
14,900
Reaction score
49,402
Location
SE Texas
First Name
Doug
Truck Year
1982, 1984
Truck Model
1500 shortbed, 1500 longbed
Engine Size
454, 305
Got her done last week. A few hundred on her already. Way better.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Wow that's some dry a$$ u-joints lol
 

PrairieDrifter

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2014
Posts
3,472
Reaction score
4,600
Location
North Dakota
First Name
Mason
Truck Year
84,79,77,70,48
Truck Model
Suburban k10, bonanza k10, c30 C&C, c10, gmc 1/2ton
Engine Size
350, 350, 350, 350, 350
Wow that's some dry a$$ u-joints lol
Front axle shafts. I have very good reason to believe they've been replaced once, maybe not though. 150,000. The passenger side still moved freely, the driver side moved freely in only one direction. Spicers
 

Girth

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2023
Posts
72
Reaction score
197
Location
Olympia WA
First Name
Garth
Truck Year
1989
Truck Model
V2500 Suburban
Engine Size
350
I've only heard of a seat back having a latch one time, somewhere on this forum. I've never seen one of these trucks that had a seat latch, my seat in my '85 just leans forward if you pull on it. Our '76 shop truck, the seat doesn't move and the other seats in our various parts trucks do not have latches. They just move

What's odd, when I was pulling the seat out, I stood it up on end and it DID latch then. Or at least it wouldn't just fold. Shook it a bit and it folded. Looks like there's another arm down in there, behind the cover, but it's just floating in there around the pivot. I might pull the cover and take a peek at it I guess. Curious.... something else to do. lol
 

Forum statistics

Threads
42,177
Posts
910,754
Members
33,673
Latest member
jcuriel512
Top