What have you done to your square lately??

[gilby959798]

Goal complete, welded the front and rear of the floor in today.

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Next up is rockers and cab corners so we can finish the bottom half.

 

[Tank6x2]

Installed lines to the pump and fabricated hardlines for pass through on the c notch

 

[1STLS1]

Adjusted the TV cable so it shifts when it is supposed to, added coolant flush, drove around 50 or so miles, drained it, flushed it and installed a second bottle and half, drove it some more. Will flush it again later this week. Trying to keep the new coolant bottle clean with green coolant in it

 

[Ontheboulder]

Finally got the headliner back in the 87!

 

[PrairieDrifter]

Oh boy... was hoping the rear end would last till I could rebuild my 14 bolt for it and 8 lug swap, but a 14b swap isn't in the cards for awhile.

Got over 40,000 miles out of it just doing new spiders, axle shafts and bearings. No complaints, guess I'll have fully rebuilt 12b after the swap lol.

Yukon dura grip clutch posi, couldn't justify the extra $300 something for the truetrac right now. Bearing kit, ring and pinion, 1350 pinion yoke. Gonna try a crush sleeve eliminator, if not I grabbed a few crush sleeves as well. $1000 order from quick performance. Ouch.

Haven't done a center section in over 10 years, wish me luck! Had to pick up some tools and am making a yoke tool as well. Not thrilled other than thought of what can be

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[Goldie Driver]

Decided Saturday morning was a nice time to clean the rear brakes. After tear down I decided it was a good day to put the new rear shoes on I bought in April...

https://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/brake-issue.45008/post-985790

I went with the Dynamic Friction shoes - we will see how they do. I believe they are meatier based on the adjuster screw settings.

 

[Radiohead]

More like what haven't I done to my square lately.

Finally got the world to FO long enough to set up to do this carb gut swap. Upon side by side examination, I don't think these two are compatible like I was hoping. Just different enough to be a no go. Here are the comparison pictures, what do you think?

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The one off the big block, #17059520

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The one off the 80's 305, #17084226.

The old air horn won't mate up with the newer body and I bet the jets, emulsion tubes and the rest aren't interchangeable. Looking at data sheets for the two, I think I'm boned for this route. Now I need to find another 1705 body, or get a different unit altogether. The 1708 doesn't let fuel past the needle and seat and I'm not sure I want to fudge with rebuilding it because knowing where it came from leads me to think it's AFU from storage. More than I wanted to do with it.

So, back to the drawing board. Saw one that might be worth a shot on Marketplace but it's over 100 miles away and while gas is cheaper somewhat, it's way more expensive in WA. Meaning that I would spend twice as much on gas as the cost of the unit. For a bit more I can order a built, clean, ready out of the box unit and make better use of my time and wear/tear on the hardbody. Makes me start to second guess what I'm trying to accomplish here. I trust my gut, and it's not too impressed right now. Back to the waiting game again, I really wanted to be farther along than this, but...... grrr. Time to sell some radio gear and related paraphernalia to push this along sooner. F! But it beats being dead

 

[Ricko1966]

More like what haven't I done to my square lately.

Finally got the world to FO long enough to set up to do this carb gut swap. Upon side by side examination, I don't think these two are compatible like I was hoping. Just different enough to be a no go. Here are the comparison pictures, what do you think?

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The one off the big block, #17059520

You must be registered for see images attach

The one off the 80's 305, #17084226.

The old air horn won't mate up with the newer body and I bet the jets, emulsion tubes and the rest aren't interchangeable. Looking at data sheets for the two, I think I'm boned for this route. Now I need to find another 1705 body, or get a different unit altogether. The 1708 doesn't let fuel past the needle and seat and I'm not sure I want to fudge with rebuilding it because knowing where it came from leads me to think it's AFU from storage. More than I wanted to do with it.

So, back to the drawing board. Saw one that might be worth a shot on Marketplace but it's over 100 miles away and while gas is cheaper somewhat, it's way more expensive in WA. Meaning that I would spend twice as much on gas as the cost of the unit. For a bit more I can order a built, clean, ready out of the box unit and make better use of my time and wear/tear on the hardbody. Makes me start to second guess what I'm trying to accomplish here. I trust my gut, and it's not too impressed right now. Back to the waiting game again, I really wanted to be farther along than this, but...... grrr. Time to sell some radio gear and related paraphernalia to push this along sooner. F! But it beats being dead

What is wrong with rebuilding the 454 carb? Okay I read back 900 posts and found the issue. I thought I had already suggested an oring style,pinned repair fitting in the past. But depending on how bad the crack is. I stop drill the crack. JB Weld the crack and used a pinned fitting. The don't screw in and are retained with a set screw.

 

[Radiohead]

Thanks Rick. The weird thing is I don't see the crack. I have to put a seriously critical eye on the zone and figure it out. Other than the fuel leak, it seems to work just fine. I do remember hearing a pop sound, so I'm sure it must be cracked somewhere. You have given me the little nudge to investigate this further. I suppose I could check with a relatively local square body parts aficionado and see if he has a serviceable body too. I like the fix you posted, for its economy and its relative simplicity.

Good looking out and good morning.

On edit - I did find a segment of the nylon seal ring up in the fuel filter area, probably what put the uneven pressure on the main body. That's the first place to look closely. That is, after sunrise.

 

[Radiohead]

I just went looking for the aforementioned fitting and this is what I found

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Chit

 

[Ricko1966]

Look for the correct one that was just the first one I found for the pic. Call quadrajet parts. Maybe a deep sieze fitting would work. Driving can't look for a pic they are expanding oring seal no threads. Tomco 466,467,471 etc I don't know which one you need. I think you need a tomco 428

http://tomco-inc.com/Catalog/carb%20acc%20page%20396.pdf

AI is not entirely correct. These are not self tapping oversize fittings. They do make suck a thing but they are a different thing.

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[legopnuematic]

Began tearing down the 10 bolt from my buddy's 75 (the axle is from his 87, the 75 Dana 44 is under the wrecked 87).

Going to get a general clean up and overhaul, regear to 3.73 and a new passenger knuckle for crossover steering.

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Removing the original steering arm wasn't easy or fun, but wasn't horrible.

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[mxer147]

Worked on wiring by removing the power cutoff switch which was improperly wired, and located on the dash. Cleaned up grounds, routed wires, new connectors, removed black tape, heat shrink tubing, and checked and confirmed voltage and continuity where needed. Mostly in the engine compartment and some cab wiring, more will be needed in the cab when I add light switches, gauges, stereo, controls, etc….. I’ll make sure to keep it color coded, labeled and tied up nicely as well to reduce any future confusion.

 

[Travlr]

Began tearing down the 10 bolt from my buddy's 75 (the axle is from his 87, the 75 Dana 44 is under the wrecked 87).

Going to get a general clean up and overhaul, regear to 3.73 and a new passenger knuckle for crossover steering.

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Removing the original steering arm wasn't easy or fun, but wasn't horrible.

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I'd regear to 2.56s. But I wouldn't be using my truck to race or tow anything.

 

[legopnuematic]

I'd regear to 2.56s. But I wouldn't be using my truck to race or tow anything.

2.56!? Why stop there and not put a 7.5 ten bolt in with 2.14 gears

Blazer has 33” tires and 700r4 behind a pretty hot 385 small block, the 14 bolt semi floater rear I built for it I setup with 3.73s. Good combo for the blazer.