Yes, if you do this I'd recommend going with the Offroad Design caliper brackets. I used the DIY4X brackets. Big mistake. Theirs have bends in them... and either their bending process or welding on them for "strength" warped them/put them out of spec. I couldn't get the 2 sliding bolts (probably a better name- not going to look it up right now) that hold the caliper on to fit. Had to wait for them to ship out a new one.
Now that I've had them for a few years I'm sure I have a similar issue with the driver's side. It will wear down the inner brake pad to nothing in 7,000 miles. The sliding bolts don't quite fit on that side either.
So eventually I'll order the Offroad Design ones and re-do both sides. I hate re-doing things.
I'm running the same rotors and calipers front and rear now ('77 K20). I ordered the Offroad Design kevlar/stainless lines for the rear axle. Figured where I drive I have rocks flying up or sticks/branches getting kicked up and crammed where they shouldn't be.
I re-used the wheel studs also. I'm just running steel wheels so they have a fairly "thin" mounting surface. I suppose some aluminum wheels will be thick enough you won't have many threads won't be sticking out.
I have tried 2 different master cylinders that were made for front/rear disc brakes. Don't care for them much. Bore size is different and seems like there isn't as much pressure to the calipers than the stock master cylinder.
And after buying the front/rear disc brake master cylinder and then buying a front/rear disc combo valve I went for a test drive. INSTANT rear brake lockup on DRY pavement. Everything was properly bled. So then had to order an adjustable proportion valve. I mounted this near the combo valve.