Voltmeter Not Working

[97350]

I have a 1983 Silverado 1/2t that had a 305 ESC in it before I got it.I put a 406 in it but the voltmeter does not work.Could this be related to the unplugged wiring from the ESC setup?

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

I have a 1983 Silverado 1/2t that had a 305 ESC in it before I got it.I put a 406 in it but the voltmeter does not work.Could this be related to the unplugged wiring from the ESC setup?

No, it wouldn't. There's either gonna be a break in the wire going from the cluster connector to the alternator or the gauge itself is bad. You can probably order an OEM style replacement gauge for not too terribly much or go hunting in a junkyard that has a 1981-91 square body. Or...! Maybe someone on here has a gauge should you need it. Did you swap distributors? If not, you'll need to bypass the ESC or restore it to working order. If you've swapped to just a standard HEI, you're good there.

 

[HotRodPC]

Or a problem with the printed circuit or connectors in the cluster. I'd pull the cluster for inspection and go from there.

 

[97350]

Thanks .I'll check the wiring and the printed circuit.Yes I did install an HEI.

 

[chengny]

Check the fuse in the GAUGE/IDLE slot.

 

[jmoney]

I have a single wire electric tester that quickly diagnoses some common dash and wire issues. If you hook it to (-) it will light red and display the voltage. if you hook it to (+) it will light green and give the ground voltage. I used it to find that I had 12v on the gauge connector on the panel. It turned out it was a bad gauge in my case. Alternatively, you get some 25-30 ft (retractable) test lines. Hook one up to each (+} and (-) and swap between them to find grounds and power.

 

[DoubleDingo]

I have a single wire electric tester that quickly diagnoses some common dash and wire issues. If you hook it to (-) it will light red and display the voltage. if you hook it to (+) it will light green and give the ground voltage. I used it to find that I had 12v on the gauge connector on the panel. It turned out it was a bad gauge in my case. Alternatively, you get some 25-30 ft (retractable) test lines. Hook one up to each (+} and (-) and swap between them to find grounds and power.

9 year old thread, but good info

 

[Ricko1966]

9 year old thread, but good info

Just use a multimeter. If it shows negative voltage your red.lead is on ground and your black lead is on power. And no need for 25 foot test leads you can pull power or ground from fuse box, cigerette lighter,etc. A useful tool is grab an old cigerette lighter cord ,cut the cord ,strip the wires put insulated alligator clips on them. Now you have a convenient power and ground in the car.

 

[DoubleDingo]

Just use a multimeter. If it shows negative voltage yourvred.lead is on ground and your black lead is on power. And no need for 25 foot test leads you can pull power or ground from fuse box cigerette lighter etc. A useful tool is grab an old cigerette lighter cord ,cut the cord ,strip the wires put insulated alligator clips 9n them. Now you have a convenient power and ground in the car.

True. So not so good info, oops