scenic760
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2021
- Posts
- 395
- Reaction score
- 306
- Location
- SoCal
- First Name
- Chris
- Truck Year
- 1981
- Truck Model
- Suburban K10
- Engine Size
- 350
Hello all,
I'm working on putting the doors back together and I put in all new actuators while I had them apart. The passenger rear wasn't working before I took them apart and even with the new actuator it wasn't working so I started trouble shooting.
I'm getting right around 9v at all the doors and the front doors are working fine. Should I be getting 12v at all the doors? It's been sitting a while so I put the battery on charge and see what I get then, however if I still end up with 9v does that mean the relay needs to be replaced?
I felt around in the back doors to see if something was binding and there seems to be some friction spots on the linkage, along with a few more connections than the front doors, that I hit with silicone grease and it helped but didn't correct it 100%. The driver rear works but some times takes a few bumps of the switch to get it to go all the way.
My suspicion is that the rear door linkages by nature need a little more kick to engage them fully and it requires a full 12v punch?
I'm working on putting the doors back together and I put in all new actuators while I had them apart. The passenger rear wasn't working before I took them apart and even with the new actuator it wasn't working so I started trouble shooting.
I'm getting right around 9v at all the doors and the front doors are working fine. Should I be getting 12v at all the doors? It's been sitting a while so I put the battery on charge and see what I get then, however if I still end up with 9v does that mean the relay needs to be replaced?
I felt around in the back doors to see if something was binding and there seems to be some friction spots on the linkage, along with a few more connections than the front doors, that I hit with silicone grease and it helped but didn't correct it 100%. The driver rear works but some times takes a few bumps of the switch to get it to go all the way.
My suspicion is that the rear door linkages by nature need a little more kick to engage them fully and it requires a full 12v punch?