Truck Not Starting

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creativesteveo

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Hey guys!

My truck has died. :(

I was driving one day bring home a bunch of lumber from the hardware store. I pulled over to tighten the tow straps and then the truck wouldn't start! It didn't even make a noise, no dash lights either. After 3 hours of scratching my head, i ended up cleaning all connections at the starter/solenoid and wham bam it started right up.

I drove home and assumed everything was fine. The next day I crawled under there to make an adjustment because I remembered that the ignition wire connection was loose. In attempting to fix it, I stripped the post that the wire connects to.

The rest of the weekend was spent testing wires and installing a new starter.
Turns out I had one that was way too small. Anyways, the truck still wont start.

With the new starter installed I still get nothing when i turn the key, no noise, no dash lights! The headlights still work, the cigarette lighter still works. I followed the purple ignition wire all the way around the engine to the firewall, testing it all along the way. All along that wire, there was no power along the wire while i was probing it with my test light. I also, used the test light on several fuses under the dash and no power at all!

I'm thinking it's the ignition switch. I've heard that tearing the steering column apart is a huge pain in the ass. What do you guys think?

In light of an expensive mechanic bill I was thinking of installing this: http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/11010K/10002/-1
I think it looks super cool, and it would prolly be cheaper than a new ignition switch.

Does anyone have any experience installing anything like this? Wiring is not my specialty. I know enough to uninstall bolt of stuff, like a starter or alternator, but wiring sounds tricky!

Any advice would be great!
 

kaosdwarf

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mine just died too so I just wired a pushbutton that runs to both sides of starter. Still turn your ignition on and hit it or troubleshoot purple wire back.
 

1987 GMC Jimmy

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The switch is on the column, though, not in it. It's close to the top of it under the dash. You'd just need to drop the column down. The only thing is you have to be careful with the rods. A new switch is fairly inexpensive also.
 
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75gmck25

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The way the ignition switch works on a GM column is different than you might expect.
- The key switch turns and unlocks the column (as expected), but there are no electrical components directly connected to the end of the key switch.
- The end of the key switch turns a little toothed gear mechanism), which moves the ignition "rack" and pushes/pulls a rod that runs down the side of the column.
- The rod is connected to the electrical switch that has the wires for off/run/accessory. As the rod moves, it moves the electrical switch on the lower part of the column.

The significance of this design is that all the electrical connections are relatively low down on the column where they are easier to reach. They are not up inside the metal collar where your shifter is connected. This means its relatively easy to add the kind of switch panel you showed in your picture, but you will still need the key to unlock the column.

The other point to consider is that your problems may be due to the ignition rack and rod being broken or cracked (common problem). This is a cheap fix if you are willing to do the labor yourself. The new GM ignition rack is only about $12 at the parts store, but it will require significant column disassembly to replace it. You need a steering wheel puller, lock plate remover, and several other tools to get the column apart. If you do an internet search you will find several articles with very complete explanations of what you need to do to disassemble the column.

Bruce
 

HotRodPC

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The way the ignition switch works on a GM column is different than you might expect.
- The key switch turns and unlocks the column (as expected), but there are no electrical components directly connected to the end of the key switch.
- The end of the key switch turns a little toothed gear mechanism), which moves the ignition "rack" and pushes/pulls a rod that runs down the side of the column.
- The rod is connected to the electrical switch that has the wires for off/run/accessory. As the rod moves, it moves the electrical switch on the lower part of the column.

The significance of this design is that all the electrical connections are relatively low down on the column where they are easier to reach. They are not up inside the metal collar where your shifter is connected. This means its relatively easy to add the kind of switch panel you showed in your picture, but you will still need the key to unlock the column.

The other point to consider is that your problems may be due to the ignition rack and rod being broken or cracked (common problem). This is a cheap fix if you are willing to do the labor yourself. The new GM ignition rack is only about $12 at the parts store, but it will require significant column disassembly to replace it. You need a steering wheel puller, lock plate remover, and several other tools to get the column apart. If you do an internet search you will find several articles with very complete explanations of what you need to do to disassemble the column.

Bruce

I've done that rack replacement. Total bitch. The hardest part is getting the Pivot Cones out. I even bought the special tool and it broke off in one side, took it back exchanged it, broke the 2nd one off in the other side. ******** !!! Lots of drilling. I can help you with that if that's the issue. You should be able to feel if it's broke though.
 

HotRodPC

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But, I'm thinking since there is NO POWER to anything, then I'd check the fusible link on the firewall.
 

theblindchicken

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Before ripping apart the column, I'd definitely take a look at the fusible links. Or as is with my truck, the side post bolt is a bit stripped out and will loosen over time.
 

geezmoore68

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I had this issue on my 85 C2500 replaced the ign switch rods in place switch is moving with the key where it is supposed to.
Still no power but lights , dome and cig lighter still working. WTH is up with that?

Sent from my LG-LS777 using Tapatalk
 

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