Temperature Gauge Pegs Out

[sonicbluezx3]

No, it's blank, like you hit enter twice. I looked in IE and it gave me a red 'x' because the link was blocked by our stupid firewall here, so I'm gonna try to look it up on my phone. I got the link.

 

[89Suburban]

No, it's blank, like you hit enter twice. I looked in IE and it gave me a red 'x' because the link was blocked by our stupid firewall here, so I'm gonna try to look it up on my phone. I got the link.

Maybe somebody can email to you also...

 

[sonicbluezx3]

Yeah I'm not sure why it isn't showing up in Firefox.

Could someone send it to my email? PM me.

 

[89Suburban]

Yeah I'm not sure why it isn't showing up in Firefox.

Could someone send it to my email? sonicbluezx3 @yahoo.com

Ok, looks like **** for me too when I zoom in on it so I won't waste my time. Does this help at all?

You must be registered for see images

 

[89Suburban]

You might want to remove your email addy there bro. I was going to do it for ya but figured it's up to you.

 

[sonicbluezx3]

Thanks. Took care of it. It's in your reply btw with my quote as well, can you take it out?

And yeah I can read that a lot better.

I'm still not sure why it goes to ignition... if I don't wire that part up and just go straight to the sensor is it going to work?

 

[chengny]

Yes the gauge will still work. The only thing that you will lose is the gauge check function that occurs when the key is in the start position.

The way it's designed is to provide a direct path to ground through the ignition switch which causes the temp indicator to go full stroke hot. Apparently you are supposed to watch the gauge while cranking the engine to assure yourself that it is fully functional.

Looking at the schematics it also shows that the brake light should illuminate while cranking as well.

That diagram provided by 89Suburban is great - it finally explains when the temp gauge and brake warning circuits are grounded.

Thank you 89Suburban.

 

[sonicbluezx3]

Okay.... finally got around to working on my truck.

I ran a new wire straight to the connector that plugs into the gauge cluster, and now it does nothing.

So I decided to test the gauge itself to see if that was the problem. Doesn't appear to be.... but here's what I did: I physically took the gauge out of the cluster, started the truck and got it to operating temperature (10 minutes or so, and drove it out of my garage up to the top of the hill. Felt the hoses and they were at operating temp). I used alligator clips to connect the gauge directly up to the battery, and then another alligator clip from the temp sensor plug to the input on the gauge (they are labeled on the new one I bought). I tested all three gauges that I have, and none of them budged. I know the needles are functional because I noticed that before I hooked up the ground, the needle slowly pegged out to hot, but when I clipped on the ground, it went back down to cold.

I replaced the sensor, but I guess it could be a defect, what do y'all think?

 

[89Suburban]

I replaced the sensor, but I guess it could be a defect, what do y'all think?

Only thing I can figure.

Here is a thread with testing info. Got an ohm meter?

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4321

 

[89Suburban]

That diagram provided by 89Suburban is great - it finally explains when the temp gauge and brake warning circuits are grounded.

Thank you 89Suburban.

 

[sonicbluezx3]

Yeah, I've seen that. I do not have a multi-meter unfortunately.... but I may be able to borrow one from work.

 

[sonicbluezx3]

Okay I swapped out the temp sensors.... still the same result. I'm wondering if the reason there is a wire running from the ignition switch to the sensor wire is to give it switched power? That's the only thing I can think of.... two senders and 3 gauges and they all read zero from wiring them up +, -, and sender. Help?

 

[sonicbluezx3]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZdSgu_cIgU&feature=youtu.be

Here's a video

 

[sonicbluezx3]

Anyone have any ideas?

I guess what I really need to know is if that wire coming from the ignition switch sends any signal. If it does, then that's my problem. If not, then I'm out of ideas.

Again, I've used two or three different gauges and connected them directly to the battery and the temp sensor. Positive to the battery terminal, negative to a chassis ground, and the signal wire to the sensor. The truck was at operating temperature and the gauge didn't move. I know the gauge works.... when I took the ground off, it started to move to hot. When I re-connected the ground, it went back to zero.

The temp sensor is brand new (and I even bought a second one and got the same results). So it's not the sensor and it's not the gauge.

 

[sonicbluezx3]

I just changed out the cluster completely (printer circuit and all) and here's what happens.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GlD_8oIIEKM&feature=youtu.be

It seems like the needle moved just a bit, but not a whole lot. Why would it peg when I shut the engine off and went to ACC position? Seems like there is something going on that is different between ACC and IGN in the wiring. It's ONLY this gauge though... the others function normally.