Tank strap issue

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Doppleganger

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Went from dual 16's to dual 20's. IIRC there was no dual 20 gallon tank on either short or long bed, but I have been wrong before, just don't tell my wife I said that lol. Problem is the rear bracket should be moved back to the next hole set in the frame, and the front hole will fit in the original slot.

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Thats where I had it - and everything fit fine....except the sending units were way off to the crossover lines. I'd also like to know if the crossover lines are different for a 16 vs a 20?
 

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Entirely possible that the tanks aren't perfect, but I remember when I installed a new tank on the driver's side of mine that I had to leave the straps started, but loose on the tank while trying to get it into position before starting the bolts on one bracket and adjusting where the straps sat on the tank while getting the other bracket in the right position to start those bolts. It was a three/four way shuffle to get it all lined up and bolts tightened. PITA to say the least, but leaving it all as loose as can be until it was all lined up is what got it done over here.
Ya because you have to align the bolts with the straps loose then tighten the straps thru the frame.
 

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Thats where I had it - and everything fit fine....except the sending units were way off to the crossover lines. I'd also like to know if the crossover lines are different for a 16 vs a 20?
To my recollection, there never was a dual 20 gallon tank option. It was either single 16 (LH or RH), single 20 (LH or RH), or dual 16's. You'd have to let one of the guys who've converted to dual 20's to chime in here if they used an oem or custom set. But it would appear that the fuel lines would also have to be reconfigured as well because of the position of the sending unit being further back.
 

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I had an 86 K10 long bed 30+ yrs ago that had dual 20s. I never heard of dual 16's.

If I can confirm that the filler hoses will fit up ok, I'm going to put the straps back where they were (and fit perfectly) and then make new crossover lines that will accommodate the sending units being slightly offset.

?!
 

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I had an 86 K10 long bed 30+ yrs ago that had dual 20s. I never heard of dual 16's.

If I can confirm that the filler hoses will fit up ok, I'm going to put the straps back where they were (and fit perfectly) and then make new crossover lines that will accommodate the sending units being slightly offset.
?!
My V3500 has dual 20's
 

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More liquid than I anticipated. Damn. I think the pick up tube fell out
56" ish, looks like a factory 20 to me.

On to its ugly cousin.
 

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More liquid than I anticipated. Damn. I think the pick up tube fell out
56" ish, looks like a factory 20 to me.

On to its ugly cousin.
And the straps are exactly where I initially had them. #@&%!
 

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How that centers in that hole is exactly how it sat prior to moving it - the rear sits the same way. Only after moving it does it not fit (and only goes into the top hole). Zero chance it goes to the bottom like it was.

Only thing I can think is that with 100 aftermarket suppliers, are these tanks stamped different? Aftermarket doors can look great but then not line up. The original strap area sat normal - this one will not. I have a ribbon tape measure and am going to see what the difference in diameters is.

Plan B (if I have to move that threaded end to the bottom hole) at this point is cutting the old strap and welding a new one on....extended.
If everything else lines up. Brackets straps, sender, etc then somehow you got tanks that don’t work. Or at least don’t work by design.
I think the easiest plan B ,because it doesn’t “really” matter if the strap is in the recess as long as you can line the stud up with the big hole in the frame, is cut the strap stud down to just long enough for a half a couple nut (or wherever it fits and doesn’t interfere with the tank or frame) and throw in a longer piece of all thread.
Weird that the tank isn’t made the same shape.
 

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Mine are dual 16 gallon, I always assumed only long bed trucks got 20’s. Short bed K10.

Measuring from the rear of the tank they’re about 4” to the leaf spring bolt.

Hooking the rear strap about 12” to the leaf spring bolt

Hooking the front strap about 31” to the leaf spring bolt
 

CalSgt

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Doppleganger

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Now that I've seen pics of 16s and 20s.....here's where I think I am: I had 16's and thought they were 20s. Thought it was off because of the amount off the senders were at (but they would be being setup for 16s and I have 20s). Then I saw this online - a factory 20 (duals) and see where the straps were? Right where I had mine.
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When I saw Cal Sgt's - I thought mine was again out of whack, but his is a dual 16 (I asssumed 20s).....so again I was comparing apples to oranges. I also have a pic of the 20gal filler neck - far back to the edge of the spring perch as they should be - when I was comparing it to my original 16's and thought it should be forward several inches.

So in a nutshell, (by sheer luck?) the tanks were where they should be (for 20s) - and the thing that triggered it all (the crossover lines position to the sender) is all I need to mod. Easy peasy....after a bottle of something.

Thanks fellas for all the help.....sorry for my minor to major fk up. As Gilda Radner would say..."nevermind".

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legopnuematic

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Mine are dual 16 gallon, I always assumed only long bed trucks got 20’s. Short bed K10.
In the 70s that was correct, long beds got 20 gallon tanks regardless of single or dual, in the 80s things changed some. A long bed single tank would be 20 gallon, dual tank long beds would be dual 16 gallon tanks, unless if it was a C6P rpo 3/4 ton or above gvwr

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Glad you were able to figure things out... Just for reference, I finally found an image showing my 20s without the bed on the truck. It's not the best, but it's something.


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