Stop me if you've heard this one...Starter problems

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twinturbo427

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Phil
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350
Working on a nightmare car (cheap owner, ebay everthing wants 500hp and 25mpg) that eats starters and makes a sound that reminds me of my ex-wife's voice (shudders) while cranking.

The engine is a 98/99 SBC 350 out of a suburban (880 block) with a stroker kit and all the fancy chinese race parts sold on ebay. The compression is supposed to be 10:1 but is probably much higher. The cam is a 530 lift 236/244 duration hydraulic roller on a 110 center. In an attempt to get better gas mileage (haha) the owner installed an msd timing retard and fudges with the timing all the damn time.

So it ate:
1) stock parts store hi torque starter
2) chinese mini starter, tilton type
3) a chinese version of the gm mini starter $49 ebay special
4) a second race style mini starter
5) didn't eat but didn't work with the cast iron nose 427 hipo starter, my suggestion

I installed the 427 starter and it was singing the sweet music for about a week and then started the bs again. Clunking and grinding, then kicking out the bendix in a strange "You will never fix me" satanic chant.

I asked the parts guy.
I asked the dealership tech.
I asked google, and google answered!
I found that the 880 block is drilled for 3/8 starter bolt threads but the bolt shank diameter at the knurl is 10mm.
I said "order these parts or don't ask me again" and it fixed the problem.
Starter is an AC-Delco 337-1022 or GM88877121 new from Rock auto (Summit was out) and the most important parts, the bolts GM performance parts NAL-12338064 from Summit.

I hope to never work on this nightmare wagon ever again.
 

Honky Kong jr

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Working on a nightmare car (cheap owner, ebay everthing wants 500hp and 25mpg) that eats starters and makes a sound that reminds me of my ex-wife's voice (shudders) while cranking.

The engine is a 98/99 SBC 350 out of a suburban (880 block) with a stroker kit and all the fancy chinese race parts sold on ebay. The compression is supposed to be 10:1 but is probably much higher. The cam is a 530 lift 236/244 duration hydraulic roller on a 110 center. In an attempt to get better gas mileage (haha) the owner installed an msd timing retard and fudges with the timing all the damn time.

So it ate:
1) stock parts store hi torque starter
2) chinese mini starter, tilton type
3) a chinese version of the gm mini starter $49 ebay special
4) a second race style mini starter
5) didn't eat but didn't work with the cast iron nose 427 hipo starter, my suggestion

I installed the 427 starter and it was singing the sweet music for about a week and then started the bs again. Clunking and grinding, then kicking out the bendix in a strange "You will never fix me" satanic chant.

I asked the parts guy.
I asked the dealership tech.
I asked google, and google answered!
I found that the 880 block is drilled for 3/8 starter bolt threads but the bolt shank diameter at the knurl is 10mm.
I said "order these parts or don't ask me again" and it fixed the problem.
Starter is an AC-Delco 337-1022 or GM88877121 new from Rock auto (Summit was out) and the most important parts, the bolts GM performance parts NAL-12338064 from Summit.

I hope to never work on this nightmare wagon ever again.
You fixed it now you own that bitch......:happy175:
 

eric8

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utopia
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1977
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383
Hate to revive an old thread, but just stumbled across this. I have a 383 crate from a builder who uses "seasoned" 880 1 piece rear main seal/roller blocks. I'm still using my stock, direct drive 1977 starter. Should I upgrade to these starter bolts with the bigger diameter knurl? Or is the knurl on the newer bolts just there to compensate for the use of the newer style PMGR starters?
 

PrairieDrifter

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350, 350, 350, 350, 350, 350
Hate to revive an old thread, but just stumbled across this. I have a 383 crate from a builder who uses "seasoned" 880 1 piece rear main seal/roller blocks. I'm still using my stock, direct drive 1977 starter. Should I upgrade to these starter bolts with the bigger diameter knurl? Or is the knurl on the newer bolts just there to compensate for the use of the newer style PMGR starters?
The old direct drive starters have longer bolts than the later permanent magnet starters. That's the main difference. The bolts will not interchange.
 

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