school me on 383, or some budget 383 stuff

[Swims350]

Ok never built one, pretty familar with engines. I had questions though... mostly on doing one on the cheap.

Do you have to get machine work done? other then making clearance for the rods near the oil pan rails?

Do you have to clearance them?
Do you have to have an oil pan that's clearanced too?
Can you use stock 350 rods?
If so then how? bearings spacers or something I thought I heard of?
If you buy a stroker crank like eagle or scat, do they use stock 350 rods or 400 ones?

I know you have to get a flywheel/flexplate and balancer from a 400 and have it all balanced.

Also you must get special pistons right? no stockers?

 

[mtnmankev]

When I built mine, I used a small base circle cam, hypereutectic pistons to control expansion, 400 crank machined to fit the 350 main journals, 350 rods, 350 flywheel, ground the block along the oil pan rails for clearance for the crank, HVHP oil pump, had a shop bore the block .030 and balance everything, then I brought the parts home and assembled it.
Lots of work.

 

[bucket]

These days, the stroker "kits" are probably the cheapest way to go. Still expensive though. The rods/pistons/flywheel/etc all depend on what kit you are using or what crank you are starting with.

 

[mtnmankev]

I was wondering why they are so cheap now, your mentioning the kits explained it.
I built mine 14 years ago and spent 3 grand on it.
And I did the assembly, they charge extra for that plus I don't trust an engine I didn't put together.

 

[Chuck]

I would just use a 383 crank with 350 bore. I think it's a 377.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Swims350]

I was looking into the scat or eagle crank ONLY, that's for 383 has the 3.750 stroke. I then wondered if my stock 350 rods and pistons would work or have to buy new pistons only? machine the block for clearance and get an oil that has the kickouts for the rod clearance at the rails or not?

 

[Green79Scottsdale]

Your stock 350 rods are good, but not the pistons. You are going from a 3.48" stroke to a 3.75" stroke, that means TDC of your pistons would be 0.270" ABOVE the deck of the block (assuming a zero decked block to begin with). Basically, you need special pistons with an adjusted wrist pin location.

bucket's advice on going with a kit is actually very good advice. They come completely balanced and matched, taking most if not all of the guess work out of the situation.

Cool data I ran into: http://www.gearheadgeek.com/ghgj/index.php/49-54-data/general-chevy-data/chevy-bore-and-stroke-data