Replacing the body mounts K5 blazer

[Milblazer]

I have this kit from Daystar that has all polyurethane mounts and what not that has been collecting dust for a while. I want to know how much of a pain it is to do this. Should I have a friend help? How much beer should I buy that friend? As always your help is greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

[Mr Clean]

It's not a huge pain in the ass. Yes get a friend, 18 pack of beer, and a pizza. Do one side at a time, and just lift the body up high enough to get the bushing in and out. The reason for one side at a time, is to keep your body from slipping around on the frame, and screwing up your gaps.

 

[89Suburban]

It's not a huge pain in the ass. Yes get a friend, 18 pack of beer, and a pizza. .

I like your style.

 

[Milblazer]

It's not a huge pain in the ass. Yes get a friend, 18 pack of beer, and a pizza. Do one side at a time, and just lift the body up high enough to get the bushing in and out. The reason for one side at a time, is to keep your body from slipping around on the frame, and screwing up your gaps.

So you don't get a cockeyed body? Would look a little funny going down the road when the right side gets there before the left. I've heard you have to remove the tension bars or torque bars on the tailgate beforehand so you don't bend the body to hell. Any truth to that?

 

[bucket]

If the truck is rusty, I'd get a couple 24 packs and plan on loaning out the family couch.

 

[Milblazer]

If the truck is rusty, I'd get a couple 24 packs and plan on loaning out the family couch.

Its not too bad. I do plan on stocking up on PB blaster and soaking all the bolts a couple days ahead of time.

 

[bucket]

Still can't hurt to get a couple 24 packs. Then you don't have to go back to the store when it's time to celebrate completing the job. Obama will thank you for saving the fuel

 

[chengny]

Its not too bad. I do plan on stocking up on PB blaster and soaking all the bolts a couple days ahead of time.

There is one common thing that can wrong. And if it happens, it will quickly turn this job into a struggle.

What started out to be a pleasant Saturday afternoon that only required pulling 4 bolts, sliding in the new mounts and replacing the bolts (and sipping beer in the sunshine with your advisers) can become a weekend long nightmare. You'll end up spending hours on your back, getting rust in your eyes, swearing and drinking beer by yourself (the advisers, having picked up the scent of actual work, will have fled the scene).


That would be if your "captive nuts" - that the forward mount bolts screw into - decide to make a break for freedom. These nuts are actually just 2" X 2" square steel plates with a hole drilled in the center and tapped to accept the mount bolts. The are located within the cab floor supports (normally hidden and inaccessible). They are sometimes still held captive by a couple of tack welds but the welds are usually rusted away or break free with the application of any real torque on the bolts.

When this happens, the mounting through-bolts will spin endlessly (and easily as well, due to your pre-application of PBlaster).



A little trick from the body guys:

Never mind spraying the bolts with penetrating oil from under the truck - gravity will being fighting your efforts. The best way to soak the rusty nuts is to either drill holes through the sides of the cab floor supports. An even better method is to drill down through the cab floor and spray from the top.

Do this for a week or two before you go to pull the mount bolts and maybe you'll get lucky.


A picture of a real bad cab floor/mount situation and the locations and associated parts for your job ( I think - the vehicle pictured looks like a Blazer/Jimmy)

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[robert8096]

Don't use an impact gun either. Slow steady force is the best way. Mine were not rusted and I used an impact gun on the first one and had to cut a hole in the floor and weld the capture nut to get the bolt out. Used a pry bar on the other three and had no problems. Notice the hole near right rear mount in an otherwise clean floor.

 

[Milblazer]

Here are my mounts. I think these are the mounts anyway, well the last two anyway. I tend to stay away from impact tools. I've got some breaker bars and extensions I'll use. Plus a bit of pipe from the local hardware store to give me some more leverage.

 

[robert8096]

Those don't look too bad. Spray them with penetrate lube and just take your time. The ones with the bolt going into the cab are going to be the PIA ones. The ones with the bolt going thru the cab should be easy. Those you can most likely grab the bolt from inside of the cab if they start to spin. From those pictures they don't look too bad. Why are you changing them?

 

[Milblazer]

Those don't look too bad. Spray them with penetrate lube and just take your time. The ones with the bolt going into the cab are going to be the PIA ones. The ones with the bolt going thru the cab should be easy. Those you can most likely grab the bolt from inside of the cab if they start to spin. From those pictures they don't look too bad. Why are you changing them?

Some of the suspension bushings are very dry rotted and I would rather replace everything at or around the same time so it wears evenly and I can tell the difference to see how the ride has changed.

 

[robert8096]

I understand. Body mounts don't usually wear as much as suspension bushings.

 

[89Suburban]

That would be if your "captive nuts" - that the forward mount bolts screw into - decide to make a break for freedom. These nuts are actually just 2" X 2" square steel plates with a hole drilled in the center and tapped to accept the mount bolts. The are located within the cab floor supports (normally hidden and inaccessible). They are sometimes still held captive by a couple of tack welds but the welds are usually rusted away or break free with the application of any real torque on the bolts.

When this happens, the mounting through-bolts will spin endlessly (and easily as well, due to your pre-application of PBlaster).



A little trick from the body guys:

Never mind spraying the bolts with penetrating oil from under the truck - gravity will being fighting your efforts. The best way to soak the rusty nuts is to either drill holes through the sides of the cab floor supports. An even better method is to drill down through the cab floor and spray from the top. Do this for a week or two before you go to pull the mount bolts and maybe you'll get lucky.

What about drilling up into the captive washer or next to it and installing a bolt or something to keep it from spinning?

Here are my mounts. I think these are the mounts anyway, well the last two anyway. I tend to stay away from impact tools. I've got some breaker bars and extensions I'll use. Plus a bit of pipe from the local hardware store to give me some more leverage.

Man you go it easy. THIS is bad rust:

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[Milblazer]

Man you go it easy. THIS is bad rust:

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[/QUOTE]

Ouch. Is that from salt?