Replacing front brake lines - remove proportioning valve?

[tophat36]

I really want to replace the front brake lines and hoses but as it goes for everyone, been a real bitch to get the flare fittings loose on the lines and at the proportioning valve. No issue getting the lines loosening on master cylinder. My question is, if I unbolt the proportioning valve or partially unbolt/loosen, will this make it easier? Only line I don’t have yet that attaches to the valve is the front to rear line. I could potentially just cut the others, but can’t mess that one up. Any thoughts or suggestions on this? The access to these fittings is pretty stupid. I can grab my crows feet from work but until then I’m trying to be creative. I guess I could buy line wrench crows feet, I think that exists. I can’t get a dang vice grip on the inside/tube side. Nothing seems to be working and I’m loosing faith

 

[Old Guy Bill]

There are different sizes/styles of vise grips…
When you get ready to put it back together some Anti-Sieze on the threads of the fittings will prevent it from happening again.

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[legopnuematic]

They exist.

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Have you tried a regular flare wrench?

If you have a flaring tool, you may be time ahead by just cutting the line, then cut it back a foot or two (wherever is most convenient), flare, and install a union (not a compression fitting). Bend a new line to prop valve.

 

[legopnuematic]

Those Sunex flare crows-foot wrenches are on sale on Amazon for $12 for the set currently.

Here

I’ve got both the standard and metric sets, I’ve been pleased with them so far.

 

[tophat36]

They exist.

You must be registered for see images attach

Have you tried a regular flare wrench?

If you have a flaring tool, you may be time ahead by just cutting the line, then cut it back a foot or two (wherever is most convenient), flare, and install a union (not a compression fitting). Bend a new line to prop valve.

I tried both the crows feet and wrench and nothing worked, so I gave up and no progress in the last year.

 

[ali_c20]

Unbolt the prop valve and unhook the brake lines from the clips. This should give you a little more room too work.

 

[Midnightmoon]

Don't be afraid to remove it entirely if needed. In fact, I'd just suggest replacing it at this point if feasible, especially if it is original.

 

[Ricko1966]

Don't be afraid to remove it entirely if needed. In fact, I'd just suggest replacing it at this point if feasible, especially if it is original.

The replacement combination valves do not have a good record as to being durable

 

[Midnightmoon]

The replacement combination valves do not have a good record as to being durable

Valid point. But after a year of not working on a vehicle, replacing it and making the job easier for the OP may be a good alternative.

 

[Ricko1966]

Valid point. But after a year of not working on a vehicle, replacing it and making the job easier for the OP may be a good alternative.

I don't think replacing it will make the job any easier. He's having a problem with his lines,not his combination valve. He needs to cut the lines,remove the cut off ends from the valve and replace the lines. After the lines are cut he can remove the valve,put it in a vice and remove the lines. His problem as I read it is the flare nuts are seized to the brake lines.

 

[fast 99]

Used to be new parts would fix problems, today it is the apposite. Do not replace original GM parts with offshore junk unless absolutely necessary.

 

[idahovette]

I don't think replacing it will make the job any easier. He's having a problem with his lines,not his combination valve. He needs to cut the lines,remove the cut off ends from the valve and replace the lines. After the lines are cut he can remove the valve,put it in a vice and remove the lines. His problem as I read it is the flare nuts are seized to the brake lines.

UH, "his' name is Jessica????

 

[Broken85]

Unbolt the portioning valve from the crossmember. This should give you room to work with the vice grips. If you are starting to strip down the flare nut, vice grips are the only thing that’s going to save you. I have tried small pipe wrenches but had much better success with vice grips that don’t slip. Work it back and forth once it breaks free with plenty of WD-40 until you get a full revolution on it. Use an adjustable wrench to hold the brass block while you torque it with the vice grips. You may end up torquing and snapping it right off the brake line, but such is life.

Don’t use any heat if you are planning to save the valve. I have always just replaced them when the whole system was bled down so I didn’t have to do the whole job later. I haven’t had any replacements fail, and I have done 3 or 4. The factory valves go bad too. Hard to say how bad a job they do at portioning between the front and rear, but I have always had to replace them because they start to leak