Radiator Question

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ScottyB

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I was looking at my radiator a while back and noticed that one of the previous owners used a bunch of leak stop on the cooling system. You can tell because you can see this seeping out of almost all the tube to tank solder joints. It doesn't appear to be corroded to the point where it would not be rebuildable. I talked to a local radiator shop that said I would be looking at around $250-$280 for a rebuild. I have seen copper/brass radiators online for that price but the local shop says they are thinner material and not worth the money.

What opinions do you guys have on rebuild over replace?
 

hirschdalechevy

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I have always had my 4 rows rebuilt , but I have never bought an aftermarket one and I have heard that as well. Some other's will chime in on this and maybe know more.
 

chengny

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Over time, that white dusty stuff (IDK what it is) appears at the tube/tank joints on almost every brass/copper radiator I have seen - leakers or not.

I would not assume that the radiator is leaking now (or ever did leak) based solely on the presence of that white residue.

I would pull the radiator:

1. Give it a good exterior cleaning
2. Clean the watersides for inspection by back flushing
3. Look into the tanks and note whether the tube ends are open or crusted over
4. If they are crusted over - pour in some CLR Remover and let it dissolve the deposits

After a couple of applications of CLR remover, the inside of the tubes/tanks should be down to clean bare metal.


If I had to guess, I would say that the white stuff is excess flux that was applied when the radiator was originally built. It has always been there but only shows up when the paint wears off.
 
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89Suburban

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Damn I could have used that 2 weeks ago.
 

ScottyB

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Damn I could have used that 2 weeks ago.

Good thing I asked about it then. :D

On a serious note, if that is just flux I may just pull the radiator and try doing a CLR dip then follow up with the hot water pressure washer at work. If that cleans it up I may go ahead and do the cooling flush someone did a great writeup on earlier. That will wait til I am ready to change the water pump though. It isn't leaking or failing but not knowing the history of the truck I may replace it on principle after doing the flush.

Hmmm, maybe it makes more sence to do the internal cleaning first. Opinions?
 

Thunder

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Do the flush and dip. I would hold off on the pump if it shows no signs of leaking or bearing failure. You might go ahead and buy the pump that way you have it on hand when you need it.
 

Mattchu60

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Does that all aluminum radiator drop right into the old radiators place? Also, for a TBI 350 how many rows would you go for? (I have A/C)
 

72chevy2door

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If you get the one from the parts store with the plastic tanks it will drop in and button up just fine. How many rows in the core is up to you on what you plan to do or use the truck for. The more rows the better IF you are able to fit it in the fan shroud. If it don't fit right and it's to close to the motor you can trim the fan shroud down till it gives you the clearance. I've done it to a cutlass years ago it worked fine with no overheating.
 

89Suburban

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I just bought the plastic/alum one from AZ and I am very happy with my purchase. This truck hasn't hit 200 degrees since I did that and replaced the thermostat. I also drilled a small bleed hole in the thermostat lip. That made a difference too and now I don't get that warming up temperature spike anymore. Yup, very happy camper now with the cooling system. Still want to get the fan clutch replaced. The front of it was wet from a leak. Cheap one from RA should do the trick.

Also the radiator I picked out did require some modification of the mounting brackets but I picked a big, thick radiator so I was expecting that. And 2 row is plenty for the core, they are very wide core tubes.
 
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