Overheating, but only when going up long hills

[WHEELMAN]

first thing,,why are you running that hot a stat..change it.to 160-those high heat stats.are for old people that want fast heat in the winter..brass rad-at least three row..and make sure the old one is not half clogged..

or you might blow a head gasket..next.climbing a grade..what shape are your fan belts in..they could be all slipping.or the water pump belt could be.i had some cheap.belts.

from down the street auto parts..they dried out and they were slipping.i went and bought some gates belts.never had that problem again.any way.you do know you have something there.

that is not right..i have seen water pumps.where the imppeller on the back.was worn-slick as a babies butt and not pushing any water..hardly at all..another thing.running that high a stat.you are cooking your motor oil and wearing it out..faster..heat breaks..oil down..

 

[towman]

first thing,,why are you running that hot a stat..change it.to 160-those high heat stats.are for old people that want fast heat in the winter..brass rad-at least three row..and make sure the old one is not half clogged..

or you might blow a head gasket..next.climbing a grade..what shape are your fan belts in..they could be all slipping.or the water pump belt could be.i had some cheap.belts.

from down the street auto parts..they dried out and they were slipping.i went and bought some gates belts.never had that problem again.any way.you do know you have something there.

that is not right..i have seen water pumps.where the imppeller on the back.was worn-slick as a babies butt and not pushing any water..hardly at all..another thing.running that high a stat.you are cooking your motor oil and wearing it out..faster..heat breaks..oil down..

i kindly disagree, these trucks were designed to be run with a 195 thermostat and running a lower tempature is not good for your engine or your engine oil, they need to get hot enough to burn the condensation out of the oil, if you want a sludge motor run it to cool, and the newer stuff with fuel injection you will kill your gas mileage with a colder thermostat

 

[Camo]

i kindly disagree, these trucks were designed to be run with a 195 thermostat and running a lower tempature is not good for your engine or your engine oil, they need to get hot enough to burn the condensation out of the oil, if you want a sludge motor run it to cool, and the newer stuff with fuel injection you will kill your gas mileage with a colder thermostat

I agree, No reason to change to a cooler stat. Just make sure yours is working properly

 

[crazy4offroad]

On a recent episode of Horsepower TV a properly warmed up engine made a difference of almost 10HP on the dyno. I would have to agree with the majority, a 190 t-stat should run the engine just fine if everything else is functioning properly.

 

[89Suburban]

I'm actually going to take pics along the way since I'm actually in no rush for once. I'll post a write up...give me a chance to do some pic *******.

 

[TheBigTater]

first thing,,why are you running that hot a stat..change it.to 160-those high heat stats.are for old people that want fast heat in the winter..brass rad-at least three row..and make sure the old one is not half clogged..

or you might blow a head gasket..next.climbing a grade..what shape are your fan belts in..they could be all slipping.or the water pump belt could be.i had some cheap.belts.

from down the street auto parts..they dried out and they were slipping.i went and bought some gates belts.never had that problem again.any way.you do know you have something there.

that is not right..i have seen water pumps.where the imppeller on the back.was worn-slick as a babies butt and not pushing any water..hardly at all..another thing.running that high a stat.you are cooking your motor oil and wearing it out..faster..heat breaks..oil down..

Like everyone else said...160 thermostats are an old wives tale. The only time they were ever any benefit was during the early fuel injection days. Running a cooler stat would keep the computer from pulling timing and give a negligible horsepower boost. Running a cold stat on a carb motor has no real benefit. Just wears your motor out faster running it that cold. Also, I live in Spokane WA, its cold here. I want a hot heater. This isn't a tired stock motor either. This is a GM crate with less than 15k on it. Brand new water pump and Goodyear gatorback belts.

Like the old drag racers say...I like my motors like I like my women- Hot, Fast, and Loose

 

[TheBigTater]

Well, I got everything all buttoned up today. Hottest day in a while so it was great weather for a shakedown run. Runs cool as a clam now. Ended up going with an all aluminum rad from Champion radiator. Big shout out to Champion, I had to send one back that didn't fit and they really went the extra mile to make sure I got the right one quickly. I highly recommend them, ask for Geoff. Great quality radiator for about the same price as the plastic/aluminum ones from the parts stores. Also replaced the fan clutch (it was shot) and found a universal overflow reservoir kit. Here's a couple pix, sorry for the quality but I can't find my camera anywhere.

 

[HotRodPC]

I like to run a 180 Tstat in non computer controlled vehicles and a 195 in computer controlled vehicles. Most computer vehicles will not go into closed loop operation until 190 degrees, so 180 can keep you from getting best performance and fuel economy for awhile, and likley never get into closed loop in the winter time.

 

[dhamp]

How was the fitment with the Champion? All the original stuff line up & attach right?? (like the fan shroud, rad mounts, etc.) All the lines go back on pretty easy without any bending required??

 

[TheBigTater]

How was the fitment with the Champion? All the original stuff line up & attach right?? (like the fan shroud, rad mounts, etc.) All the lines go back on pretty easy without any bending required??

Yep everything bolted in just like stock. Shroud mounted up fine and the fittings are all in the right place. The rad also has 2 plugs Where you can mount zinc anodes for sacrificial corrosion. Its a great deal for the price and they're great people to do business with. Even though I had to wait for shipping I'm glad I went with this one.

 

[dhamp]

Cool. I wanted to keep with a stock looking unit, but that is such a nice looking and solid piece that I'm converted over now. How much was it with shipping??

 

[89Suburban]

That radiator is sweet.

A word of caution on the overflow tank, I have the same one. You want to keep those hoses from pulling on and putting pressure on the tank fittings, mine did and the nipple cracked on the bottom. I JB Welded it up and is fine for now, but made sure the hoses were not taught. My even be a good idea to fasten the hoses to something to keep the pressur off the fittings.

 

[dhamp]

Good info 89S!

 

[TheBigTater]

It was like 175 with shipping. If you have a Fedex account they'll happily bill your account and save you some money also.

I know what you mean about the tubes for that overflow tank 89S. I have some hose clips I'm going to screw to the inner fender so I can control the slack in the hose. Thankfully I had more than enough hose so it isn't stretched at all. I just want to get it a little better secured before winter when it gets cold and brittle.

 

[89Suburban]

It was like 175 with shipping. If you have a Fedex account they'll happily bill your account and save you some money also.

I know what you mean about the tubes for that overflow tank 89S. I have some hose clips I'm going to screw to the inner fender so I can control the slack in the hose. Thankfully I had more than enough hose so it isn't stretched at all. I just want to get it a little better secured before winter when it gets cold and brittle.

So is your overheating problem fixed then?