Oil pressure sender stuck.

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SquareRoot

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Nobody asked the OP why he was removing it. Maybe he just wanted the challenge? Mountain climbers understand.
 

xm20k

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Idiot lights are worthless, electrical gauges are better by a mile, but I've always put mechanical oil pressure gauges in my vehicles, and it has saved a few engines over the years a rebuild is easier/cheaper to deal with than a rod or crank on the road.
 

YakkoWarner

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Idiot lights are worthless, electrical gauges are better by a mile, but I've always put mechanical oil pressure gauges in my vehicles, and it has saved a few engines over the years a rebuild is easier/cheaper to deal with than a rod or crank on the road.

True mechanicals are certainly the best - as long as you don't use that flimsy plastic tubing they come with - I like to see it plumbed with real copper tubing. My friend Dave bought a SWB square that previous owners had plumbed in a mechanical gauge with the plactic tubing from the kit - he got a hot oil bath on the way home from buying it....

At least Chevy's electrical gauges are rough approximations of pressure - a lot of Ford vehicles that have "oil pressure gauges" really have effectively analog idiot lights - if you look at the wiring its just a basic on-off switch through a resistance to make the needle read "NORM" unless there is low enough pressure for it to read NONE. Slight variations in system voltage from normal loads make it "seem" like its giving an analog reading but it really isn't.

MG used electrical in some years and mechanical in others - I l kind of prefer their electrical ones because of the gauge placement - a leak in the mechanical gauge line would shoot 60-80PSI hot oil right onto one's man-bits because of how the panel is layed out. At least they used real copper tubing from the factory....
 

xm20k

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Ricko1966

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Idiot lights are worthless, electrical gauges are better by a mile, but I've always put mechanical oil pressure gauges in my vehicles, and it has saved a few engines over the years a rebuild is easier/cheaper to deal with than a rod or crank on the road.
They are not worthless usually not as good as gauges,but there are exceptions. I built a sand car,there was no reading gauges if you were driving hard. I put in big idiot lights,If an alternator belt came off I'd know before I cooked the motor. But the better one was I put in a big yellow temperature light,that would come on before the engine was to hot,so you knew to get to nice flat area and just cruise to cool things off.
 

xm20k

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They are not worthless usually not as good as gauges,but there are exceptions. I built a sand car,there was no reading gauges if you were driving hard. I put in big idiot lights,If an alternator belt came off I'd know before I cooked the motor. But the better one was I put in a big yellow temperature light,that would come on before the engine was to hot,so you knew to get to nice flat area and just cruise to cool things off.
Didn't even think about low vis from dust/sand or high vibration situations like that, makes sense.
 

AuroraGirl

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True mechanicals are certainly the best - as long as you don't use that flimsy plastic tubing they come with - I like to see it plumbed with real copper tubing. My friend Dave bought a SWB square that previous owners had plumbed in a mechanical gauge with the plactic tubing from the kit - he got a hot oil bath on the way home from buying it....

At least Chevy's electrical gauges are rough approximations of pressure - a lot of Ford vehicles that have "oil pressure gauges" really have effectively analog idiot lights - if you look at the wiring its just a basic on-off switch through a resistance to make the needle read "NORM" unless there is low enough pressure for it to read NONE. Slight variations in system voltage from normal loads make it "seem" like its giving an analog reading but it really isn't.

MG used electrical in some years and mechanical in others - I l kind of prefer their electrical ones because of the gauge placement - a leak in the mechanical gauge line would shoot 60-80PSI hot oil right onto one's man-bits because of how the panel is layed out. At least they used real copper tubing from the factory....
ford in the late 80s did that oil pressure thing, up to about 93 or so there is a resistor on the instrument cluster that can be removed or something and then put a sender in the engine, and it will function as a gauge
 

Ricko1966

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Didn't even think about low vis from dust/sand or high vibration situations like that, makes sense.
To be fair I did mount the idiot lights above the gauges,so if a light came on it drew my attention. This is actually most handy with a low temp switch for temperature, so you know before it's hot to look at the gauge and baby it to cool it off.
 

Camar068

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IMO, I prefer a gauge. You learn where it's normally at and if your smart you keep an eye on it and use your judgement. Lets you know when issues are coming before that light comes on. A long (hours) drive, I understand the light....hard to keep an eye on those gauges on a long drive.
 

87SQRBDY

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Hold the brass with one hand with a wrench or vice grips to give it support,use a socket for a switch and appropraite ratchet or wrench for a sender. Why are you replacing the sender? And does your truck have a light or a gauge? I'd love a pic of this,because usually the sender for the gauge I'd by the distributor,and there is a switch not a sender by the oil filter. If it is a switch,it is redundant even if it's bad it won't hurt anything unless there is a problem with the fuel pumpnrelay circuit.
Sorry for the delay, I'll get a few pics up today to show where it is. It's just a 1 wire sender that runs to the guage. It's bad because I checked everything else out first to make sure it wasn't the wire or gauge. Thanks for the advice from you and the others. My apologies again for the late reply.
 

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An available port to a mechanical gauge included with various adapters.
 

87SQRBDY

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Sorry for the delay, I'll get a few pics up today to show where it is. It's just a 1 wire sender that runs to the guage. It's bad because I checked everything else out first to make sure it wasn't the wire or gauge. Thanks for the advice from you and the others. My apologies again for the late reply.
 

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