Oil pressure sender stuck.

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87SQRBDY

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Sorry for the delay, I'll get a few pics up today to show where it is. It's just a 1 wire sender that runs to the guage. It's bad because I checked everything else out first to make sure it wasn't the wire or gauge. Thanks for the advice from you and the others. My apologies again for the late reply.
Why not just use an alternative location to mount the same thing
If its a 1987 with the tbi, the switch part of that assembly is designed to provide an alternative ground to the fuel pump relay im pretty sure, which even chevy deleted in the 1990s probably realizing they had reliable enough computer grounding

Then the gauge on the dash can be run off the port by the distributor. leave the original alone if it wont budge. is the one by the oil filter using an adapter that comes out of the block that the switch/sensor screw into ?
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it looks something like this , right? show us what you meant if you still need to use this location



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This is an example of where the location im telling you to use is, its by the distributor toward the firewall on the little landing the distributor opening is at. that supports my gauge sender , and it can probably support the switch for the fuel pump too but it would probably take a second or so more cranking to get it to do its thing just because its higher in the oil feed circuit i presume
These pics are from up top and underneath the truck, but that's where my pressure sender is located, on a brass fitting.
 

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87SQRBDY

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Nobody asked the OP why he was removing it. Maybe he just wanted the challenge? Mountain climbers understand.
I am trying to remove it because it no longer works, so I'm driving without knowing what my oil pressure is at.
 

legopnuematic

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If there is clearance to do so, just remove the fitting and sender together, clamp the fitting in a vise to support it and remove sender.

Or put vise grips on the fitting to support it and remove sender in the truck.

Or break the fitting off, remove remainder of brass fitting from block and replace both sender and fitting.
 

Ricko1966

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Yep thats a gauge sender,pull the wire off and ground the wire,does the gauge peg? If so the sender is bad 8f not it's a different problem. Most chevrolet engines had that sender by the distributor,just relocate the new one to there. As @AuroraGirl mentioned.
 

AuroraGirl

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if these guys are right then yours is in the right spot, the switch is by the distributor. if you dont care about the redundant benefit of the switch you can safely replace it.
 

AuroraGirl

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LOW OIL PRESSURE READING INCORRECT OIL PRESS. SENDER​



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MODELS: 1987 R/V, G, P AND 1988 C/K WITH LB4 (VIN CODE Z), L03 (VIN CODE H), L05 (VIN CODE K), L19 (VIN CODE N) TBI ENGINES

Some 1987 R/V, G, P and 1988 C/K models with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L and 7.4L engines with throttle body injection may have a low oil pressure reading at the gage. This condition may be caused by an incorrect oil pressure sender being installed in production.
If this condition is encountered, it can be repaired by using a new oil pressure sender, P/N 10069218. The new design sender can be identified by a "60" that is stamped on the hex drive portion of the sender. For installation instructions, refer to the service procedure in Section 8C of the appropriate service manual.
This condition was corrected in production beginning with the following VIN breakpoints:
1987 R/V -------- Flint Line 1 GMC HF718914 Chevrolet HF368115 Line 2 GMC HF517180 Chevrolet HF136663 Janesville GMC HJ515257 Chevrolet HJ139069 St Louis GMC HS515905 Chevrolet HS145384
1987 G Van Lordstown GMC 513772 Chevrolet 143213 Scarborough GMC 509369 Chevrolet 119458
1987 P Chassis Detroit GMC H3503077 Chevrolet H3315178
1988 C/K Pontiac GMC JE501049 Chevrolet JE103403 Ft Wayne GMC JZ500361 Chevrolet JZIO3371 Oshawa GMC J15W576 Chevrolet J1110750
General Motors bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, not a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform those technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, do not assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See a General Motors dealer servicing your brand of General Motors vehicle for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
 

Ricko1966

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if these guys are right then yours is in the right spot, the switch is by the distributor. if you dont care about the redundant benefit of the switch you can safely replace it.
Just use a tee and keep them both. 1/8 NPT from the hardware store
 
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AuroraGirl

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Just use a tee and keep them both. 1/8 not from the hardware store
true, i didnt think of that, but as far as op was asking he seems dead set on removing things he doesnt need but that is the best option in my opinion
 

87SQRBDY

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If there is clearance to do so, just remove the fitting and sender together, clamp the fitting in a vise to support it and remove sender.

Or put vise grips on the fitting to support it and remove sender in the truck.

Or break the fitting off, remove remainder of brass fitting from block and replace both sender and fitting.
I never thought of that, I was under the impression if I took out thay brass fitting oil would come spilling out. If it does, I'll put a catch pan down and fill back up. Thanks for the advice.
 

YakkoWarner

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I never thought of that, I was under the impression if I took out thay brass fitting oil would come spilling out. If it does, I'll put a catch pan down and fill back up. Thanks for the advice.

There might be a little bit come out, but when the engine is off all but a tiny amount of oil is collected down in the pan (and about a quart or so stilll in the filter) so worst case is you'll get a few drips or a dribble.
 

gympsy

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The problem often stems from the tapered thread seized by time, heat, and oxidation. To remove it without disassembling the engine, you can first apply a penetrating lubricant like PB Blaster and let it sit for several hours. Then, gently heat the brass fitting with a small blowtorch to expand the metal, while holding the fitting in place with a second wrench to prevent it from breaking.
 

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