No Running Lights!

[chengny]

Sorry...



$3.81
Specifications:
•Delphi pn: 12089188
•UM: 25 Piece Bag
•Gender: Female
•Material: Tin Brass / Plated
•Wire Range: 20-18
•Operating Temperature: -40°C to + 125°C
•Max Amp Range: 20 Amps




$3.81
3.73 Specifications:
•Delphi pn: 12089040
•UM: 25 Piece Bag
•Gender: Male
•Material: Tin Brass / Plated
•Wire Range: 20-18
•Operating Temperature: -40°C to + 125°C
•Max Amp Range: 20 Amps

 

[usar17]

Haha I'll just go cut one off a junker

 

[chengny]

Why don't you just strip, solder and heat shrink the leads where the plug formerly made the connection. It will be a proper, long lasting repair.

Those harness plugs are just used to provide flexiblity across the different model lines during the production stage.

I mean, really when you think about it, how often do you get the urge to go under the truck and unplug your rear lighting harness?

If you still feel you need to have the option to disco the rear lighting clusters, use bullet splices (with heat shrink tubing) instead of soldering.

 

[usar17]

I'm thinking about that. Id have to splice in the tow harness then

 

[chengny]

When you solder the various leads (parking,brake, back-up and directional) add an extra lead to each one on the "downstream" side.

Make those extra leads 4-5 feet long and when you go to wire your trailer harness you'll already have feeds that are in parallel with the main lighting circuits. Tack on the trailer connector, plug in and you're done.

It will be a far more professional looking job than those crappy squeeze-on splices that basically cut into the wire.

 

[usar17]

You must be registered for see images attach

temporary fix till spring time hahaha. I can't feel my hands. Its 8 degrees here

 

[John81287]

You must be registered for see images attach

temporary fix till spring time hahaha. I can't feel my hands. Its 8 degrees here

It'll do for now let me know if you want the plug off the c30


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[usar17]

Ya. Whenever it gets warm haha

 

[89Suburban]

Good job taking the time to find the problem and fixing it in those conditions man.

 

[Hobbbs]

This is the closest to my issue I have a 84 Chevy Silverado C10 longbed and I don't have low beams they won't turn on with he runnin lights like they're supposed to I havent dug into the wiring but the guy that had the truck before me did not know what he was doing and under the dash is a rats nest of wiring I took a test light to the connectors on the back of the lights and they aren't getting power but the dimmer switch is getting power I suck at wiring so I have no idea what is happening

 

[Cuba]

This is the closest to my issue I have a 84 Chevy Silverado C10 longbed and I don't have low beams they won't turn on with he runnin lights like they're supposed to I havent dug into the wiring but the guy that had the truck before me did not know what he was doing and under the dash is a rats nest of wiring I took a test light to the connectors on the back of the lights and they aren't getting power but the dimmer switch is getting power I suck at wiring so I have no idea what is happening

You should start your own thread so that it'll help others with your same issue AND you're more likely to get answers or help.

 

[Zach99999]

I'm having an issue where all my lights work every single one except for the taillights they dont work I have all the lights in the front work blinkers and headlights and running lights up front....but in the back all I have are brake and turn but no running light or side marker light in rear

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[AuroraGirl]

check the ground on the... driver.. side housing? One of the two sides has a little eye connector screwed into the bed. that ground can mess with functions

 

[Snoots]

Mine has them on both sides.
Make sure you have 1157 bulbs and not 1156.
Side marker is a 194.

 

[crpntr78]

E

check the ground on the... driver.. side housing? One of the two sides has a little eye connector screwed into the bed. that ground can mess with functions

Exactly the remedy. Mine had the same thing. New ground fixed it.