No Running Lights!

[DuallyGuy]

Hey there,
Yesterday evening, I started my truck and realized that my instrument panel did not light up when I turned my headlights on. I stepped out of the truck and also realized that none of my running lights were working either. Only my headlights and turn signals. I checked all my fuses and discovered that my 'INSTR' fuse had a 20A instead of the 5A it should've had. I replaced it. Other than that, all the fuses checked out fine. I did notice a couple wires with connectors on them just dangling. One was tan with white stripe, another was brown, I believe. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks a lot!

 

[89Suburban]

What is your question, are the lights still not working even though you changed the fuse?

 

[DuallyGuy]

My running lights still dont work. So I'm wondering where to go from here. What else should I check?

 

[89Suburban]

I would check the light switch next. Make sure the "TL/CTSY" fuse is ok, should be 20 amp fuse. From there an orange feed wire runs up to the light switch for the parking lights. Pull the plug off the light switch and make sure there is power to that point. (You could also use a jumper wire from orange to brown on that plug to test for lights function at this point). If there is power at the orange wire at the plug, then plug it back in and check for power coming out on the brown wire with parking or headlight switch in "On" position. If there is power there then the bulkhead connecter on the firewall would be my next target.

 

[DuallyGuy]

Ok, I crawled my large frame underneath the dash and discovered that 1. I'm too fat. and 2. The orange wires were dangling by a thread to the light switch connector. What's funny as that the rest of the wires were nice and snug. But the orange wires were just hanging by a string. The orange wire basically fell off it's connector. So I basically have to do some cutting and crimp a new connector on it. I'm HOPING that will solve the problem. Another problem is, I can't seem to figure out how to disconnect the light switch so that way I can work with it. Because I can't do the work unless I'm able to take that damn thing off.

 

[RetroC10Sport]

There's a button on the left side of the light switch module - you might have to move the A/C ducting out of the way if you have A/C - press it while pulling out the knob.

 

[DuallyGuy]

I felt the button. And I pushed it while trying to pull the knob off and that sucker just wouldn't budge. I couldn't push any harder on the button without putting a permanent hole in my finger. I guess I will have to try again.

 

[HotRodPC]

I'm going to go with a bad fuse, or that ciruit. Reason being, The dash instrument lights, tail and running lights are on the same circuit. So if that's what you lost and your headlights and dome light are still working, then it's the fuse or circuit.

What is common to cause this circuit to blow fuses or fail, is at your trailer lighting plug if you have one. The wires tend to be left dangling. So if you backed over a small stick of something and it grabbed some wires and gave a yank, or they simpley rubbed on something enough, to get through the wire coating and ground out, that will do it too.

 

[HotRodPC]

I felt the button. And I pushed it while trying to pull the knob off and that sucker just wouldn't budge. I couldn't push any harder on the button without putting a permanent hole in my finger. I guess I will have to try again.

Careful there. Sounds like you're over doing it. You do indeed push the button in to pull the knob out, but you can work with it too. At times you push it in, with average strength, no need to go heman on it, pull the knob and when you toward the end start letting up on the button a little bit. You might even feel it starting to release. Just work with a bit, both pushing and releasing the button. There is just one notch in then end up the stick you're trying to get past and once you get worked past that notch you're home free and it should come right out.

Honestly though, I think you can leave the switch alone for now anyway. Check the fuse and the circuit. Above I said, if headlights and dome light are working, but now I am not even positive if the dome light isn't on the same circuit. I don't think it is, but just in case I might be wrong, don't hold me to the dome light. Another way to confirm, your brake, flashers and turn signals will still work too. Just the Cluster, Running, and Tail lights out, then it's usally a fuse or that circuit. Good Luck.

 

[89Suburban]

Wow, I did not know about that secret button!!

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[HotRodPC]

It's not a secret button Dawg. Pretty common knowledge I thought. Been that way since the 50's that I"m aware in at least GM and Ford that I'm aware of.

 

[89Suburban]

It's not a secret button Dawg. Pretty common knowledge I thought. Been that way since the 50's that I"m aware in at least GM and Ford that I'm aware of.

First I heard of it dude, I am glad it came up.

 

[DuallyGuy]

Just to confirm, the dome lights, turn signals and headlights still work. So I'm glad to hear its a circuit or a fuse problem. But that light switch with its little button is a pain in the a$$! The circuit that plugs into it is what I need to get to since thats where the orange wires were yanked out of. I will snap a photo tomorrow. Its hard to fix it when I cant even reach it.

 

[RetroC10Sport]

For future reference to others. This is the button we are referring to, it will be on the left side when installed in the truck.

 

[DuallyGuy]

*update*

Ok, after several attempts to even squeeze my arms under the dash to get to the frayed wires, I finally did it. I repaired it back just the way I found it. Unfortunately, I noticed that the circuit has been melting over a period of time. So, my next question is, why? Even as I reconnected everything, I could feel the wire that I had just repaired grow hot fairly quickly when I turned the light switch on. I was also curious why would the two orange wires be spliced into one connector? Just making sure that's normal. I've attached a coupled photos that I managed to snap showing the partially melted circuit in question as well as showing the repair job I did which was cutting off the burned ends of the orange wires, attaching a new piece of wire and running it back into the circuit. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!