new 350 for free, well kinda lol

[Boogiedown]

well i got a 350 today, pulled it out of an old 60's model c 40, has a 2 barrel on it so thats gotta go, has a rebuild tag on it but have not had a chance to research that yet. the guy said it ran a year ago when parked it but he was not the one who had it rebuilt. thinking about a new cam, but dont want to go too big. whats a good set up that wll give me decent power but not kill me at the pump. i want a little rumble im sure yall know what i mean. ill be putting a 4 barrel eldelbrock on it, does anybody need a 2 barrel set up im not gonna use it? but let me know on the cam thanks

 

[Swims350]

nice deal for sure. comp has a couple smaller cams under the 268h ones, supposed to improve torque, help mileage or be good for mileage.

 

[bucket]

60's model? Sure it's a 350? Just go with a nice mild cam, nothing that will require a converter with more stall. What 2bbl is it?

 

[Boogiedown]

60's model? Sure it's a 350? Just go with a nice mild cam, nothing that will require a converter with more stall. What 2bbl is it?

Not sure what 2 barrel it is, I'm at dinner right now I'll take a pic when I get home and post it. Yea in pretty sure it's a 350 I don't think it's the original motor.

 

[Boogiedown]

heres some pictures of the carb... it says 2 jet rochester on it

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[Boogiedown]

60's model? Sure it's a 350? Just go with a nice mild cam, nothing that will require a converter with more stall. What 2bbl is it?

what do you think about this cam

•Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 255/265
•Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 205/215
•Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .427/.453
•LSA/ICL: 112/108
•Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
•RPM Range: 1000-5000
•Includes: Cam Kit

 

[crazy4offroad]

Really mild, middle-of-the-road lift, plenty of vacuum on idle. Probable wont have any lope.

 

[Boogiedown]

Really mild, middle-of-the-road lift, plenty of vacuum on idle. Probable wont have any lope.

Ahh ok well I want some lope, what kinda numbers do u think I should look for?

 

[crazy4offroad]

I cant really recommend a cam I haven't tried yet, especially on the merit of lope alone. But I'm getting ready to start an engine build soon and I've been eying this Crower Torque Beast cam...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRO-00904/

And there's a reason why. I'm into mud racing in the street class and the rules require you to be able to pull 17" vacuum at 1,000 rpms for that class. After much searching, I think it has the most lift I can run on Vortec heads without a lot of valve train modification, has the most overlap without killing the vacuum, and has a good power curve that starts pretty low. Summit claims it tops out at 5,500rpms but Jegs has it listed for 6,000. I've been using a cam overlap calculator to find out how much overlap a particular cam has. Once you punch in the intake lift @ .050", exhaust lift @ .050", and Lobe Separation Angle you get how many degrees of overlap. However there isn't any particular thing that tells you what that yields. But I have been checking so many cams, including ones that tell you how much vac to expect that I have a good idea what it will do. Here's the calculator if you want to check it out...
http://www.wallaceracing.com/overlap-calc.php

By the way keep in mind that compression ratio affects how much vacuum you can pull. If you have a cam with some overlap and a little lope, higher compression ratio will give you a little more vacuum. It's a tricky balance, something I've been doing a lot of reading about over the last few months. If you just want a good middle of the road cam the Edelbrock Performer RPM has lope, but only about 12" of vac, +15 degrees of overlap. Super Stock class, which sound like friggin race cars lol are required to hold 15". It has so much lift that you need new valve springs though. For comparison, the Edelbrock Performer Plus (which I have in my truck now) pulls full vac and has -15 degrees of overlap. The Crower has -5 degrees overlap, and I expect it to be right at the 17" vac threshold, and probably have little or no lope. Hope this helps more than it confuses lol.

 

[jake wells]

the carb is either a Rochester 2G or 2GV most likely a 2G the 60's version is 500 CFM according to my old book on carburetors. people usually re jet these carbs for circle track racing.

good for power and economy i would leave it alone a lot better carb than a holley or edelbrock 2bbl

 

[Boogiedown]

well it was nice outside today, only 103 so i got out to start tearin down the 350, and the first think i find is a bent push rod. kinda pissed but **** happens. but the good thing is the heads and intake valley look great no gunk or anything on anything. this is right after i pulled the valve covers off no cleaning.

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[Boogiedown]

lol im tired its a push rod

 

[89Suburban]

Holy ****!

 

[HotRodPC]

Need to figure out what caused that push rod. That almost appears to be a catastrophic failure there. What I mean by catastrophic is, something else is wrong that caused it and its a serious issue.Where that pushrod bent, it appears the valve stopped or did not open. What caused that? I guess its possible a valve float problem could have also caused it, which is somewhat possible since I know those old 60's models C40 truck are very low geared so it may have ran at very high rpm for a long period of time. Just replace the rods, then turn the motor over serveral times and make sure the valve is opening ok and watch the valve train operation.

 

[HotRodPC]

As far as cam choice, you really need to have a litle chat with yourself and figure out what want. The sprectrum of choices is unlimited. But, what do you mean by not hurt you at the pump? Lope = Hurt at the pump. The reason a motor lopes is becuase of valve overlap. Which means, both intake and exhaust vavle are open at the same time. When this happens you lose engine vacuum, and also compression. Reason being, with both valves open, not matter what stroke you are on, you are either leaking compression, or leaking or not building vacuum. So lope means engine inefficency. Without effeciency, you lose mpg. Which do you want? Sound mean and not be mean? Or sound strong and have some power along with mpg? I have a feeling that is a dish piston 8.5-1 compression motor which means you can't afford to be leaking any compression for power. I know those heads by the cast #, they are 76CC smogger heads, also not good a performance motor and those heads will be a major bottle neck in getting air into the cylinder and also getting the combutstion out. I'd go with a mild RV cam and call it good. You'd have good power, decent to fair mpg, with lots of low end torque.
I like this cam for alot of low end grunt, a good 1200-5200 power band range that will work with stock stall converter, work well with en Eddy intake, and with dual exhaust ought to have impressive power and still fair mpg.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-12-256-4/