Need help identifying 12v wire for electric choke

[Truck82]

Hey everyone! I am installing an electric choke on my carb and know very little about electrical. The manual that came with the choke says to connect the wire from choke to the yellow/black wire going to the wiper motor. As seen in the picture, there is a yellow and a black wire. Does this mean I can use either one? It needs to be connected to the ignition so it turns on with the truck

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[bucket]

What carb are you using?

The choke power wire can be the one that went to the original choke coil. If that wiring is gone or in bad shape, run a wire from a fused ignition terminal in the fuse box (there's usually an extra) and to the new choke.

You can leave the wiper harness alone, there's no reason to tamper with that.

 

[74Blaze]

I usually just run a wire from the 12V IGN Terminal in the Fuse Box to the Choke. Works great. Just need to find a place to snake it through the firewall.

 

[ChuckN]

Shouldn’t there already be a wire that comes from the oil pressure sending unit? Unless it’s gone for some reason.

I only know because when I got my truck, the wiring was a disaster. Apparently the choke gets power after oil pressure is sensed, then receives power.

 

[Truck82]

What carb are you using?

The choke power wire can be the one that went to the original choke coil. If that wiring is gone or in bad shape, run a wire from a fused ignition terminal in the fuse box (there's usually an extra) and to the new choke.

You can leave the wiper harness alone, there's no reason to tamper with that.

1977 Rochester 2gc with an automatic heat tube choke originally

 

[bucket]

1977 Rochester 2gc with an automatic heat tube choke originally

Yeah, I'd just run a dedicated choke wire from one of the extra ignition power terminals in the fuse box.

 

[Truck82]

Yeah, I'd just run a dedicated choke wire from one of the extra ignition power terminals in the fuse box.

Ok. It seems like the cleanest way to do it too

 

[Dejure]

SIDE NOTE:

This Holley video (YouTube site posted below) helped answer questions I asked elsewhere, which is, how does a choke work?

The video indicates the power applied to the choke opens it [rather than closing it] gradually. So, just turning the ignition on, even if the vehicle is not running, will, slowly, open the choke.

Once the key is off, power is (should be) removed from the choke circuit and the choke should start closing again, as the choke bi-metal coil cools.

Based on the foregoing, you need a full 12 volts to the choke when the ignition is on. Accordingly, and as long as the supply does not compromise another circuit (e.g., the ignition coil), any protected (fused) circuit active with the ignition in run should work.

The circuit does not have to be active in start, since that's when you need choking down of the air mixture, and the power to choke opens it, letting more air in.

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[Edelbrock]

The closest and easiest 12V that I found is the + wire on the distributor. That wire only has power when the rig is running, and is less than a foot away from the choke. The wire that says "BAT".

 

[Bextreme04]

The factory setup in the later 80's models used a two prong NO oil pressure switch mounted in the 1/8 NPT port right above the oil filter. You would run a 20A feed from an ignition source in the fuse box to the oil pressure switch, then out of the oil pressure switch to the choke. This switch makes it so that the choke begins to open only once the engine is running and has built enough oil pressure to close the switch.