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Making my 1990 Suburban bullet proof. What do I need to do?

Discussion in 'Tech Discussion' started by Giant Rock, Jan 13, 2021.

  1. Salty Crusty

    Salty Crusty Full Access Member

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    Prairie Drifter, when you show a pic of a snapped 33-spline semi-floater axle, I'll quit using them.
    If you'll pull an axle out of one and one out of a full floater, you'll see that the thinnest part of a full floater is a good bit smaller than that of a semi-floater. Weaker.
    And you can have all that extra weight. I don't need it on a trail rig that won't see the need.

    Underkill with a 10-bolt or Dana 44 front and overkill with a full floater on the rearend.

    I agree that the big Dana 60 fronts are waaay overpriced, but unless you're hard-core wheeling, so is the full floater.
    And the semi-floater 9.5" rearends are tough to find, but they're out there, just gotta know where to go.
     
  2. PrairieDrifter

    PrairieDrifter Full Access Member

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    I'm not saying a semi float isn't tough, but with full floats being superior and easier to find and just as cheap, it's no comparison. My main thing is no c-clips, no wheels with axle shafts attached falling out. Also if you're breaking full float axles, you're already doing things it wasn't designed to do, so you already needed to upgrade axle shafts at least.

    Bought a 3/4 ton set for 200 bucks full float rear... Cab and chassis truck with a full float rear for 400 for the whole truck.

    My 438,000 mile Dana 44 says otherwise to your underkill... as well as 90% of 4x4 squares on the road. Otherwise paying some butt boy 1500 bucks for an "ok" condition axle is not happening, I'll just order one from Currie or someplace like that before buying a used one.
     
  3. Salty Crusty

    Salty Crusty Full Access Member

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    Just sayin' that a full floating and a Dana 44 or Chevy 10-bolt are a mismatch.
     
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  4. IndianCountry

    IndianCountry Junior Member

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    so are you saying you've already wasted the time and money on a front axle swap thinking a 3/4 ton axle is different than a 1/2 ton axle? got it
     
  5. PrairieDrifter

    PrairieDrifter Full Access Member

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    Haha you're dense. No time or money wasted as i paid 100 bucks an axle for a set of 3/4's... and already knew there's only one true one ton axle... You haven't given me a slice of new information yet son. With only 15 posts you'd think you'd have something more to contribute, other than your opinion.
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2021
  6. PrairieDrifter

    PrairieDrifter Full Access Member

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    How's it a mismatch if they came from the factory that way?
     
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  7. Salty Crusty

    Salty Crusty Full Access Member

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    Because Chevy didn't always do everything the smart or right way.

    Hell, they put 305's in Corvettes!!!
     
  8. PrairieDrifter

    PrairieDrifter Full Access Member

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    Name another manufacturer that did it different or better.
     
  9. IndianCountry

    IndianCountry Junior Member

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    did you recommend OP buy a 20 or 2500 axle even though it is the exact same thing a 10 or 1500? yes or no. did you recommend OP to swap to a 20 or 2500 axle even though it is the exact same thing as what he has under his suburban now?
     
  10. PrairieDrifter

    PrairieDrifter Full Access Member

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    I sure as hell did, to compliment the full float rear that should be swapped.

    It's not the same thing though...An 8 lug hub is different than a 6 lug... lol
     
  11. rjohn

    rjohn Junior Member

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    I tell ya what ain't gonna help ops truck be bullet proof, tears cause she won't run so good on that.I had to read all that garbage grown men crying back and forth. Op check that rear end oil if she good,check the rest slam hood down turn that key and drive the thing. She'll outlast all that other shit on the road and drive over some fuckin rocks too
     
  12. PrairieDrifter

    PrairieDrifter Full Access Member

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    Just gave my opinion..and one person was kind enough to banter with valid points(which creates discussion) which is a good thing. the other was a soy boy... eVerYtHinG BuT A DanA 60 iS tRAsh... oh well. My feelings weren't hurt so I'm good lol

    Apologies to the op for the derail. Nobody can debate without getting feelings hurt anymore lol
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2021
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  13. IndianCountry

    IndianCountry Junior Member

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    k10s use the 10 bolt and the dana44, k20s use the 10 bolt and the dana44. they are the same thing, and a waste of time and money to swap
     
  14. Salty Crusty

    Salty Crusty Full Access Member

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    I didn't think this was as comparison thread...I'm a die-hard Chevy guy but have learned over the years that GM did a bunch of stupid crap, mostly to satisfy the bean counters instead of the people who were end users. Same with the other manufacturers.
    I'm sure as hell not going to overspend on a heavy-ass Dana 60 for the front of any of my rigs. I actually considered it until I started checking prices and the cost to upgrade them to as close to bulletproof as I could get them. Cheaper to carry a fold-up helicopter and fly my ass out than bulletproof a D60.

    Just saying that the torque capacity of a 10-bolt or Dana 44 is not in the same ballpark as a full or semi-floating 9.5" rearend.

    I'm never going to hardcore wheel or mud race or anything like that, I just want parts that I can count on to get me home from wherever I manage to roam.
     

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