Led headlight mod

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Hella E codes/H4 bulb and premade relay harnesses on both my square and Tahoe
 

Hunter79764

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Are you aware of any supplier of these relay kits that would work in an 85 GMC with quad HL's?
I'm not sure, I've purchased relay kits from amazon and I've also just wired up relays, no particular vendor of choice there. Heads up that most kits will be for H4 bulbs, which may or may not have a different pinout than needed on GM stuff.
 

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Are you aware of any supplier of these relay kits that would work in an 85 GMC with quad HL's?
Relays are easy to wire, a little common sense and a little understanding of how they work,and anyone can wire relays without any kit necessary. I wrote a thread before I think the title was how relays work. The real quick version is a relay is a switch just like a toggle switch,tge difference is it is moved by electric current,not you physically moving the toggle. A typical automotive relay is going to use 200 milliamps to open or close on the control side but an average relay on the switched will carry 40 Amps. So you use existing switches and wires to control the relay,run new wires to the battery and the device you want to power. You flip the switch it powers the relay the relay passes power from the battery to the device.
 

Ricko1966

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Are you aware of any supplier of these relay kits that would work in an 85 GMC with quad HL's?
This would do it. Speedway. Look at the install pdf. But this is plug and play problem is it would just do the two top headlights another kit would be needed for the bottom 2.
 

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Sad Sack

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Dejure

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The main reasons I run them is not just brightness because they really are not much brighter if at all from the stock bulbs, however they are whiter. The rangers' low beams get flashed because people think my high beams are on till they get it back, nobody seems to be bothered with the C10.

I also run not just headlights, but all the lights, bulb availability locally is almost nonexistent, and I'd rather not pay and wait for bulbs to ship to me.

Lastly total power draw, my accessory drive is for race usage underdriven by 10% with a 55-70 watt output when not underdriven. The biggest power draws on my system are the high torque starter irrelevant when running and lights. Only other electrical is a couple of my gauges the wiper motor that rarely gets used and the MSD box and 2 step.

Forty years ago, my aftermarket halogens were far brighter than stock lights. A single halogen put out about same as to stock sealed beam bulbs. Today, and LED's aside, nearly everything is halogen, whether sealed beam or not, so the swap would be not as notable.
 

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I almost hit a pedestrian the other night because of the stupid bright lights, and the cars will always stop for me attitude. I was blinded by another cars headlights as a pedestrian decided to step out in front of me,if I had seen him sooner,all good I could have slowed down,but I was blind then,when the lights got out of my eyes is when I saw the pedestrian.Then it was panic braking and the pedestrian looking at me like what is your problem.
sorry you went through that Ricko1966
 

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I didn't say it earlier, but YES, this is also a very valid option, same for H4 conversion. Run a relay kit and use good quality replacement headlights and you may be amazed at the increase. A good LED is an option, but DO NOT use LED or HID lamps in a reflector housing. LED and HID are both better with a projector lens, but LED's can be done in a dedicated LED-specific housing. But yes, making sure you are getting 14.4V or as close as you can to a halogen that isn't worn out may surprise a lot of folks.

If you have doubts about the above 2 posts,make your self some jumper wires hook them to the battery to the right front head light. Then turn on your headlights. Right front will be brighter. That's what the relays do they provide battery voltage to the headlights. As is,battery power goes to the headlight switch on 1 wire,through the switch divided into two wires then runs back to the headlights so 15 foot of line loss and skinny wires. Use the relays to trigger battery voltage from the battery to the lights maybe 5 foot at most of line loss and a separate power source for each light
current set up is 8ga power/grd wires and 1 lo relay and 1 high relay to 2 stock 7" rnd bulbs, with a 2nd set of unconnected hi/lo beam plugs, for when I get it I am converting the rad support to 4 small rectangular buckets and 4 stock replacement silver star ultras, then full alignment
 

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Are you aware of any supplier of these relay kits that would work in an 85 GMC with quad HL's?
i made my own using 8ga wire for the hots and grounds and 4 of these pin out plugs but with 12ga wires, the heaviest ga I could find and 2 high current relays 1 for high beam, the other for low, they are secured to the back of the rad support right close to the lights, 2 plugs are currently in use, 2 in reserve for when I swap to 4 small rectangles
 

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Sad Sack

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He will build you a kit if he doesn't already stock it.
Highest quality wire, connectors, cables, etc. I have ever found!!!
Thank you again for the info. I pulled the trigger on an LMC dual headlight relay harness for $30.
...so hopefully it'll be a pleasant experience.

Consider this thread closed.
 

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So I picked up the rad support and misc bit to convert scott to 4 rectangular bulbs from 2 round ones, these came with it, Any info? Guessing high beam only? But what std uses such tiny pins, never seen this style before, it had 4 of these 2 pin jobs, not 2 x 3 pins and 2 x 2 pins tyia

sorry these are the photos I tried to attach from my tablet
 

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Just reading your description it sounds like you're talking about the 4701/4703 bulbs that they used on the Suburbans and Blazers the last couple of years. They carried over to the OBS trucks too. They're independent meaning when you switch to high the lows go out. Pic for reference
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I didn’t read the entire thread, but look into the Summit Racing brand LEDs. I’ve used both the 7” round and 4x6” options and they are really good—especially for the price. They have a glass lens and are DOT approved.
 

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