K5 Blazer repaint cap body color or white? How to remove fading paint on fiberglass.

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TDoc

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Previous, previous owner 20ish years ago painted the Doeskin tan cap white and some of it runs off when wet so I’d like to ideally remove what’s left of the white and restore the original color.

What can I use to remove the chalky spray paint and not harm the original tan underneath?

Tried pressure washer and a plastic bristle brush to no avail.

If I have to repaint it do y’all think I should go white or body color? Guessing they painted it white due to southwest heat coming right through the uninsulated fiberglass cap.

Where can I find WA8265 Doeskin tan that doesn’t cost $30 a can?

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Edelbrock

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If this doesn't take it off (without damaging the original) nothing will. It comes is spray cans, jugs, spray bottles, etc. Cheap at Walmart.
 

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TDoc

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Update: oven cleaner is doing the job. Spray on, let set 10mins It will turn yellow after 5mins. Don’t leave on longer than 10min. Keep factory metal paint below cap wet and scrub off oven cleaner and white spray paint with blue scotch bright. Will need to compound factory metal paint to shine as it has dulled from runoff.
 
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Finkaire

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Original color was probably white, mine was. After considerable consideration I had it repainted white, probably single stage. Saw one painted the body color, didn’t look as good as the white, my opinion. Any other color combination would look as if it came off another truck.
 

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TDoc

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Mine was originally body color according to the spec sheet in the glove box. Got almost all of the white off. Now need to try and brighten up the original tan. I’ll try some compound a polish if the roughness doesn’t tear up my buffer or wool pad.
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I was gonna say protect the paint on the bedsides but looks like you’re done. That factory paint is pretty soft too.
I was also goin to say my preference would be white with that color vehicle but it looks damn good with those 2 colors together.
Not sure what you mean by finding paint that isn’t $30/can. If you’re going through the trouble of repainting it, I’d recommend at least use paint that costs more than $30 (and doesn’t come in an aerosol can) and won’t have issues, fade quickly or require you to redo it in the near future again.
 

Edelbrock

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One option is Krylon. Its a 3-in-one product. Bonds to anything including plastic. We have used it on cars/trucks/quads/dirt bikes etc. Easy to use, minimal prep, not prone to runs, can be used upside down, and its tough as nails once dried. They have lots of different colors and it can be purchased just about anywhere.

3-in-1 :

Rust inhibitor
Primer
Paint

Nothing is as good as a full on heated, low dust, paint shop with all the proper spray guns and compressed air - but this product seems to be the best alternative:
 

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TDoc

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One option is Krylon. Its a 3-in-one product. Bonds to anything including plastic. We have used it on cars/trucks/quads/dirt bikes etc. Easy to use, minimal prep, not prone to runs, can be used upside down, and its tough as nails once dried. They have lots of different colors and it can be purchased just about anywhere.

3-in-1 :

Rust inhibitor
Primer
Paint

Nothing is as good as a full on heated, low dust, paint shop with all the proper spray guns and compressed air - but this product seems to be the best alternative:

Thanks! If they have a tan color that’s close I may go this route unless I go back to white. Hopefully I can brighten up the original tan.
 
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YakkoWarner

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Keep in mind the original color may actually be gelcoat, not paint. A lot of fiberglass products (my primary experience being boats) use a colored gelcoat for the smooth shiny surface. If thats the case, some of the polish/finish products used by boat owners might be the way to go.
 

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I was gonna say protect the paint on the bedsides but looks like you’re done. That factory paint is pretty soft too.
I was also goin to say my preference would be white with that color vehicle but it looks damn good with those 2 colors together.
Not sure what you mean by finding paint that isn’t $30/can. If you’re going through the trouble of repainting it, I’d recommend at least use paint that costs more than $30 (and doesn’t come in an aerosol can) and won’t have issues, fade quickly or require you to redo it in the near future again.
^^^ This

For the amount of work you're putting into it any rattle can paint will end up doing the same thing as the old white paint or fading. Krylon rattle cans are also $8 each, you will burn through a lot of cans to get good coverage on a project that size.

Also, the odds that you can get Krylon in any shade close to the original body color are slim. I have no doubt they have several shades of tan but it's likely to clash with the tone of the existing paint. An advantage of white is it doesn't need to match anything.

Here's a breakdown of budget friendly quality paint materials that would be needed, I guess the epoxy could be skipped but it would ensure the paint adheres well and no colors would bleed through.

Summit epoxy primer (white) is $32 quart
Summit epoxy catalyst $24 per quart
Summit single stage "Flat white" acrylic urethane is $34 per quart
Summit Urethane activator $43 quart
Summit urethane reducer $19 quart

For about $150 or so bucks in materials you could spray it with quality automotive paint with an epoxy sealer underneath. I couldn't find urethane activator or reducer in half pint sizes so there would be almost $50 worth of material left over...
 

Finkaire

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Last pictures looked remarkable! And BTW, typically don’t see the top
 

TDoc

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It’s better than the flaking / peeling white that was on it but is blotchy in spots. I bet it is gel coat. I’ll probably just run it like this for awhile. If I get it repainted I’m afraid of it looking too new of paint to match the original metal paint that 40 years old on the rest of the truck. I hit it with Meguiars finishing polish 205 which didn’t do anything to the topper but brightened op the paint on metal part of truck.
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TDoc

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Paint is definitely soft. You can see where the oven cleaner and white run off stained the truck paint very lightly in spots but can only notice it up close. Warning if anyone else does this. I wouldn’t do it on a dark color.

Still looks great from a feet away and it’s got plenty of flaws already being original paint.
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TDoc

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Overspray Ray (previous owner) had painted the door mirrors white so there is already some white I need to get off the doors but it’s pretty baked on and not too noticeable so leaving that for now. I might try one of those wipe on clear coats on the fiberglass cap. It would at least leave a gloss finish.
 
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