InstallingD44 Reid Racing knuckles

[77 K20]

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The arms are actually slightly lower- but just the act of flipping the tie rod from the bottom to the top moves it a lot higher. You can see the stock arm was pretty much lined up with the stud at the 10 o'clock position. The Reid knuckle it is probably closer to 9 o'clock.

Just got off the phone with ORD- they said that is common issue with the nut down style. They said adding the 1/4" axle relocation plate will give the required clearance. There won't be much, but it should work.

Ugh.

This will make the tie rod "trapped" in there. You can't lift it up and out because of the leaf springs. I guess I better automatically replace the tie rod ends when I drop the axle off of the leaf springs because it will suck to have to do this again.

 

[77 K20]

I won't get a chance to work on my truck till Monday- but forgive me if I'm pessamistic but I'm not entirely sure the 1/4" spacer idea will work.

While doing hours and hours of research last night I found that GM did use some strange tie rod ends and tie rods in 1974:



The offset was to make sure there was clearance with the leaf springs. I bet these would work- but I'd imagine that design is weaker...

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It's also interesting to note that they changed how the steering dampener mounts. Pretty much backwards of my truck. (the hole in the tie rod for it is on the passenger side instead of the driver's side)

 

[bucket]

Ahh, the offset tie rod makes sense.

That picture you just posted of the factory flat top knuckle, does that arm not look slightly lower than your Reid knuckle?

The '73-'76 stuff is nearly obsolete in my kneck of the woods, it's hard to nail down info for those years.

 

[dvdswan]

I was just about to suggest those... almost saved you hours of research...

 

[77 K20]

Ahh, the offset tie rod makes sense.

That picture you just posted of the factory flat top knuckle, does that arm not look slightly lower than your Reid knuckle?

The '73-'76 stuff is nearly obsolete in my kneck of the woods, it's hard to nail down info for those years.

I think it might be slightly lower. Kinda hard to tell for sure as a slight difference in camera angle can make a big difference.

 

[bucket]

For the tie rod, you could ream the hole in the opposite direction. Yeah, you will loose some meat doing that, but it's just a stabilizer bolt. It's not like it sees anywhere near the stress of a tie rod or ball joint.

 

[77 K20]

I heard back from ORD again:

With our custom springs, you generally end up with plenty of caster. That’s not a drivability problem, if anything it’s the opposite, but it can cause other issues.
One would be driveshaft angle.
The other would be the issue you’re having. The reason I ask about caster is that if you have a lot of it, a shim under the springs would not only act as a spacer but it would point the pinion up (helping the driveshaft) and point the arm on the knuckle down. That could be an easy fix.
You can measure the caster with an angle finder on top of the steering arm on the passenger’s side.


Guess I'll have to go up to the shop I left it at and park it somewhere flat and measure this angle. Compare that against whatever the OEM alignment specs are. Thinking of going with a zero rate block and have it machined into a shim if needed.

 

[77 K20]

So I've found this:

K10, K20, K30 Pickup 77-87 alignment specs:

Left Caster,
8.00° ± 1.00°

Right Caster,
8.00° ± 1.00°

Camber,
1.50° ± 0.75°

Total Toe
0.12" ± 0.05"

Now- do these stock alignment specs still apply for a lifted truck with larger tires?

 

[bucket]

I bought my Burb in 100% stock form. My BDS front springs came with shims installed on the packs, I'm guessing it was to help the pinion angle. But it still drove like stock afterwards. They may not be very sensitive to castor angle.

 

[77 K20]

Whatever my castor is set to right now feels just fine. Never had any wandering issues either.

So- just bought more stuff (from ORD)

1" zero rates
1-1/4" tie rod
new front U bolts (mine were cut down too short to re-use)
and a steering stabilizer bracket for their tie rod

Their tie rod is just threaded DOM stock. It uses 2233L/2234R tie rod ends. This will make it cheaper and easier in the future to replace just the ends.


My truck was sitting 1.75" higher in the rear so this will help level it out a bit.

 

[77 K20]

Worked on my truck today. Painted the ORD tie rod and the zero rates then installed everything.

The clamp I bought for my steering stabilizer- couldn't use it. When you buy the tie rod with the 2233L/2234R tie rod ends I found out that one of the tie rod ends has a hole in it for the steering stabilizer. AND that the hole is also tapered in the wrong direction. So I used a grinder and removed the taper on my steering stabilizer stud. Not my finest work- but damn it I want to use my steering stabilizer! Shouldn't be this hard... I'm guessing if I went with the ORD tie rod with their custom tie rod ends THEN I could use the steering stabilizer clamp and have it done the "proper" way.

I now have clearance between the tie rod and the spring pack. Now I just need it aligned.

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[Blue Ox]

Couldn't you reverse the tie rod and use the clamp on the tube leaving the tie rod end with the adapter on the passenger side? Or drill out the tapered hole and use a straight bolt?

 

[77 K20]

Couldn't you reverse the tie rod and use the clamp on the tube leaving the tie rod end with the adapter on the passenger side? Or drill out the tapered hole and use a straight bolt?

I think that might have worked- at that point I already had it all together and installed and found out the taper hole was the wrong direction.

No alignment today- had an appointment at 1pm and they say it needs a 1 degree shim for the knuckle ball joint. They don't carry parts for "trucks that old". They will try again next wednesday.

Hopefully it will be functional by January 12th- I have a trail ride up to the mountains to play in the deep snow.

Kinda sad it takes a full month to do this project.