Inner Cab Heater/AC Housing Reference Pics

[89Suburban]

Yah, I seen a few posts about that white piece breaking, some guy had a cheap fix for that, I'll have to dig that up and stick it in this thread, and the firewall info too.

You see that resin on mine in that pic where the PO sealed it together along that crack? Any idea what that is? I put that foam/foil tape over it but the adhesive is crap and it fell off already.

 

[HotRodPC]

Yah, I seen a few posts about that white piece breaking, some guy had a cheap fix for that, I'll have to dig that up and stick it in this thread, and the firewall info too.

You see that resin on mine in that pic where the PO sealed it together along that crack? Any idea what that is? I put that foam/foil tape over it but the adhesive is crap and it fell off already.

I'm sure I'll work it out and it's going to be better than new when I'm done, and I"m also putting all 3 bolt thru the firewall to the AC box too.

I know why yours is fugged. That didn't crack. It's common that people **** out and CUT or BUTCHER the Air distributor to get the Heater Core out and a new one in. It appears PO tried or did that shortcut. I was going to cut mine too to make it easier for next time, but WTH, I was afraid it would look like hell and I don't want it looking like hell. I like **** right or better than new.

 

[89Suburban]

What is your plan on the bolts, you going to have studs facing in the cab?

 

[HotRodPC]

Not worried about bolts. I'll either run them thru the front and nut the back, which is what I think I'll do if I can get my hand or something in there to start them.

But, this idea of making a hybrid box won't work without extensive work and filling in part of the plastic where this is void that is filled by the OE 1 pc where the 2 pc and metal doesn't cover it. I guess I'll have to wait til I get out to my dads and get another heat box out of the burnt truck. I think and hope it's still good since most of the fire stayed toward the driver side. I'll be looking at my pics soon to see if I can sell. I wish this **** woudln't have broke like it did. Very brittle plastic.

Do I understand right? There is no keeper on the long shaft that goes down thru the vent door right? That thing was stuck in there like no other. I tried to lightly tap it out. Got it started then I pulled hard and when I did, it broke the vent door and the plastic housing the vent door rides in. So much for making it better huh? I tell you what. I've never let a vehicle whip my ass, but that one is sure getting close.

 

[89Suburban]

That shaft is only tight at the bottom of the door where it is squared off to fit in the slot. Once I got it out of the bottom it slide out the rest of the way ok. It was a bitch on mine also. You also have to watch assembling it that you don;t press everything together too tight or it will create drag on the door and it won't operate right.

 

[89Suburban]

Here are reference pics for the 2 different firewall opening setups from non-AC to AC:

You must be registered for see images

You must be registered for see images

 

[89Suburban]

Hey HR, I looked into that vacuum pod we were discussing in the other thread. Apparently it's the fresh air door for A/C trucks.

So keep in mind that could be a place to look for a vacuum leak. The hose for it goes through the firewall next to the computer hanger. So you got two vacuum hoses entering the firewall on that side of the cab for A/C trucks. One from the intake manifold and one for the fresh air flapper.

You must be registered for see images

You must be registered for see images

You must be registered for see images

You must be registered for see images

You must be registered for see images

 

[HotRodPC]

Cool. I figuted if it had to do with the HVAC that's all it could be. My truck has Vac lines to open up vents in the kick panels too.

 

[89Suburban]

Cool. I figuted if it had to do with the HVAC that's all it could be. My truck has Vac lines to open up vents in the kick panels too.

Yes, I am guessing the kick panel one is for the recirc setting. It's nice to be getting this stuff figured out and referenced.

 

[HotRodPC]

Yes, I am guessing the kick panel one is for the recirc setting. It's nice to be getting this stuff figured out and referenced.

Yeah it is. I'm starting to get things figured out on the year model differences too. It appears that metal 2 pc box I"m using is up to 82. 83 they went 1 piece and plastic. Also the same is true on the Controllers. You see on eBay, Controller for 73-87 trucks !!! Not True, 73-82 appears to be one set up, and 83 up appears to be another. They are not compatible. Don't carve that info in stone just yet though as far as year models. What you can put in stone, is that there are differences depending on year model, be sure to match up your controllers and such. Now I'm thinking the Vac diaphrams should be the same though. They have the same amount on both the older box and the newer. I was checking into that thinking that might be why my Defrost door isn't opening. I'm about to go with my vac switch on the controller is bad and not diverting vacuum to the defrost hose.

For now, I guess I'll just carry my vac pump, with a hose to the defrost blend door daiphram, and when I need defrost, give it a couple pumps.

 

[HotRodPC]

BTW, after the thermostat install, and the way this blower "Rocks you like a Hurricane" That heater will flat roast your nuts and with enough sweat, By the time you get to Betty's house, she can have Roasted Salty Nuts !!! I had to turn it down on low. Can't wait for summer and getting AC working now. It's gonna freeze my nuts then.

 

[89Suburban]

Yeah it is. I'm starting to get things figured out on the year model differences too. It appears that metal 2 pc box I"m using is up to 82. 83 they went 1 piece and plastic. Also the same is true on the Controllers. You see on eBay, Controller for 73-87 trucks !!! Not True, 73-82 appears to be one set up, and 83 up appears to be another. They are not compatible. Don't carve that info in stone just yet though as far as year models. What you can put in stone, is that there are differences depending on year model, be sure to match up your controllers and such. Now I'm thinking the Vac diaphrams should be the same though. They have the same amount on both the older box and the newer. I was checking into that thinking that might be why my Defrost door isn't opening. I'm about to go with my vac switch on the controller is bad and not diverting vacuum to the defrost hose.

For now, I guess I'll just carry my vac pump, with a hose to the defrost blend door daiphram, and when I need defrost, give it a couple pumps.

Nice thing about going to PAP is doing homework and study too. I actually saw a ac housing today with the metal rear panel like yours, I said "damn, look at that."

Remember my housing is plastic 2 piece with screws holding the back panel on the leg of the housing.

 

[HotRodPC]

I'm also thinking of adding one of these. You run your heater hose thru it. So it can shut off the flow thru your heater core in the summer time. I hate my trucks that have AC and all the heat that comes thru the ducts when the AC is off or not working. Even with the blend door to COLD, if the blend door doesn't seal 100% you still get heat thru the vents. This should keep the heater core much cooler and not have that problem so bad.

You must be registered for see images

My 84C20 is like an oven in the Summer. Although I've not checked the blend door either. And it's heater and defrost work great too.

 

[89Suburban]

I'm also thinking of adding one of these. You run your heater hose thru it. So it can shut off the flow thru your heater core in the summer time. I hate my trucks that have AC and all the heat that comes thru the ducts when the AC is off or not working. Even with the blend door to COLD, if the blend door doesn't seal 100% you still get heat thru the vents. This should keep the heater core much cooler and not have that problem so bad.

You must be registered for see images

My 84C20 is like an oven in the Summer. Although I've not checked the blend door either. And it's heater and defrost work great too.

IS that a factory part? I seen guys put a garden hose valve in line too. I know what you are saying about being able to stop the flow of warm coolant through the heater core during the summer. You always get some of that heat bleeding into the cab when you don't want it.

 

[HotRodPC]

IS that a factory part? I seen guys put a garden hose valve in line too. I know what you are saying about being able to stop the flow of warm coolant through the heater core during the summer. You always get some of that heat bleeding into the cab when you don't want it.

Yeah, that's a AC/Delco Part that is Vacuum Operatred. You'd just T off one of your HVAC Vac lines. I'd prefer to get one from like the 55-57 Chevy's though like you're talking about. Looks like a Garden hose valve. This way it can be taken out and doesn't compromise the OE system. Other thing is, if you have it shut off until you call up for heat, then it will take a few minutes to get the warm coolant thru the heater core even though you motor might be 195 degrees. I'd just shut it off in the Summer, and back on in the Fall. Some vehicles do this automatically. Of course that's why AC/Delco has the part.

A little known not all that well known secret. On vehicles that use that system, if you get into a pinch with an overheat, or towing a trailer and going uphill and you motor starts to get hot, then roll down your windows, shut your AC off as well as your fan, then turn the Heat on. It opens that valve and gives a shot of cooled off coolant and increases your cooling capacity a little bit. It can sometimes make the difference of making it to the next off ramp for water before you trash more motor.