Inner Cab Heater/AC Housing Reference Pics

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

chengny

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2012
Posts
4,086
Reaction score
1,008
Location
NH
First Name
Jerry
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
K3500
Engine Size
350/5.7
Excellent images. Hope you don't mind - here they are combined as a continuous PDF. No password, just download (ignore the hype and click "free download") and unzip:

https://rapidshare.com/#!download|334p6|219952106|HVAC air handling - both sides.rar|11341|0|0

One thing I've learned about posting (even the most innocent material) to filesharing sites - if you try to download while you're at work, forget it - it will be blocked. You have to wait till you get home.
 
Last edited:

HotRodPC

Administrator
Staff member
Admin
Joined
Aug 29, 2010
Posts
47,014
Reaction score
9,008
Location
OKC, OK
First Name
HotRod
Truck Year
85 K20 LWB
Truck Model
Silverado
Engine Size
454 - Turbo 400 - 3.73
Cool Pics. We needed these. Now maybe I'll get started on mine. I've had **** come up the last 3 days, along with rain all day yesterday and both jobs, haven't gotten to it. But damn I better. I can't work on **** in the cold weather, so it's gotta get done. Should be almost 80 tomorrow.
 

HotRodPC

Administrator
Staff member
Admin
Joined
Aug 29, 2010
Posts
47,014
Reaction score
9,008
Location
OKC, OK
First Name
HotRod
Truck Year
85 K20 LWB
Truck Model
Silverado
Engine Size
454 - Turbo 400 - 3.73
What cha doing with it while it's out hambone?

IF I recall, he's fixing the seal where the boxes meet on the firewall. I think he said he had a bad air leak.
 

89Suburban

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2010
Posts
24,508
Reaction score
5,754
Location
Southeast PA
First Name
Paw Paw
Truck Year
2007
Truck Model
Chevrolet Tahoe LT
Engine Size
5.3, 4WD
Excellent images. Hope you don't mind - here they are combined as a continuous PDF. No password, just download (ignore the hype and click "free download") and unzip:

https://rapidshare.com/#!download|334p6|219952106|HVAC air handling - both sides.rar|11341|0|0

Thanks. :handshake:


What cha doing with it while it's out hambone?

IF I recall, he's fixing the seal where the boxes meet on the firewall. I think he said he had a bad air leak.

What I discovered was the seal at the firewall opening is gone and the back cover was half open and missing screws so it was blowing out of there too. I also adjusted the door on the flapper for the floor/defrost. There are 2 holes in the linkage to adjust to your preference. So you can choose full blast defrost or a slight blend in defrost/heat outlet. I went for the full blast defrost and it made a huge difference. I will be doing write ups on this for the interior section.

What made this easy for me was the PO already hacked off 3 of the bolts. Only one holding this in right now is the top one. Once you get past removing those four bolts it's a breeze. It's a little tight trying to maneuver the unit out of the dash but it can be done. :waytogo:

I still have to take this back out after I find some of that thick foam weather strip stuff from Home Depot to put around that hole in the firewall to seal it up right, or maybe an original seal from LMC truck if they offer it. Let me tell you just the work I did so far made an amazing difference. I never felt thing put out heat like it does now. So happy I did this, and know it will only get better once it it all complete.

I am having an issue still with the defroster housing not matching the heater housing outlet, still is a gap there I need to seal. Also the left side defrost blows out much harder than the pass side which has me scratching my head. I plan to get that fixed up too and also and contemplating a mod for the side window defrost on the ends of the dash. Maybe Retro can dig me up a set of those side dash vents off a later model vehicle and I can integrate that. :D

Also in the works is to tap into the lower floor heat vent and pipe it under the bench seat to the second row floor. :grd:


ANNNNNDDDD...... last but not least, I now have a big hole where the a/c vent housing used to connect to so I will either seal that off or also think of a mod for that vent as well. I was already contemplating doing away with the glove box that I never use and install a custom vent there and have kind of a "Max" flow "quick heat up" outlet there, OR....use that outlet and plumb that one to the rear seating area. Decisions, decisions.... :)
 

HotRodPC

Administrator
Staff member
Admin
Joined
Aug 29, 2010
Posts
47,014
Reaction score
9,008
Location
OKC, OK
First Name
HotRod
Truck Year
85 K20 LWB
Truck Model
Silverado
Engine Size
454 - Turbo 400 - 3.73
:rofl: I've been driving the K1500 the last 2 days with the hear core hooked up but laying on the fender well. Good news, is no leaks. Bad news is, it's not installed. I'm having a hell of a time getting air exchanger removed. Can't get to the lower nuts in the engine compartment, and the top stud is spinning. Of course I don't have any help to hold the stud with some vise grips on the other side if that would even work. This isn't going to be fun. I"m thinking of drilling access holes in the inner fender well to get to the lower bolts.
 

89Suburban

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2010
Posts
24,508
Reaction score
5,754
Location
Southeast PA
First Name
Paw Paw
Truck Year
2007
Truck Model
Chevrolet Tahoe LT
Engine Size
5.3, 4WD
:rofl: I've been driving the K1500 the last 2 days with the hear core hooked up but laying on the fender well. Good news, is no leaks. Bad news is, it's not installed. I'm having a hell of a time getting air exchanger removed. Can't get to the lower nuts in the engine compartment, and the top stud is spinning. Of course I don't have any help to hold the stud with some vise grips on the other side if that would even work. This isn't going to be fun. I"m thinking of drilling access holes in the inner fender well to get to the lower bolts.

Looks like on mine somebody took a sawzzall with a metal blade and cut the lower studs from the inside. And the right hand side bolt was stripped. Only thing holding everything to the fire wall is that top stud right now on mine. I wish I was there to give you a hand.
 

HotRodPC

Administrator
Staff member
Admin
Joined
Aug 29, 2010
Posts
47,014
Reaction score
9,008
Location
OKC, OK
First Name
HotRod
Truck Year
85 K20 LWB
Truck Model
Silverado
Engine Size
454 - Turbo 400 - 3.73
That's prolly why you're ****'s leaking air too. I'll get it one or another, just be slow. This is taking way to long doing it in between naps, jobs and it getting dark earlier. I really don't even want to drill a hole in the fender well. I like doing **** right. What's strange to me, is there is a straight shot from the inside, why the hell didn't GM put the studs the opposite way? If the studs went from engine side and nutted on interior firewall, piece of cake, but NO. Studed from the inside and nutted between the fuggin fender well and firewall under the damn AC box. What a fuggin bitch. I can't even get pics of those nuts. I just know they are there cuz I can get my hand in there to feel and that's about it.
 

89Suburban

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2010
Posts
24,508
Reaction score
5,754
Location
Southeast PA
First Name
Paw Paw
Truck Year
2007
Truck Model
Chevrolet Tahoe LT
Engine Size
5.3, 4WD
That's prolly why you're ****'s leaking air too. I'll get it one or another, just be slow. This is taking way to long doing it in between naps, jobs and it getting dark earlier. I really don't even want to drill a hole in the fender well. I like doing **** right. What's strange to me, is there is a straight shot from the inside, why the hell didn't GM put the studs the opposite way? If the studs went from engine side and nutted on interior firewall, piece of cake, but NO. Studed from the inside and nutted between the fuggin fender well and firewall under the damn AC box. What a fuggin bitch. I can't even get pics of those nuts. I just know they are there cuz I can get my hand in there to feel and that's about it.

I agree, that is a Fail on GM's part, but it gives us a change to correct it when we refurbish ours. :)
 

HotRodPC

Administrator
Staff member
Admin
Joined
Aug 29, 2010
Posts
47,014
Reaction score
9,008
Location
OKC, OK
First Name
HotRod
Truck Year
85 K20 LWB
Truck Model
Silverado
Engine Size
454 - Turbo 400 - 3.73
I've about fuggin had it with the air distributor box. I've still not got it apart. How the fugg do I get the long shaft out of it so I can seperate the 2 pcs? I've heard some **** where guys actually CUT the box on the interior and then you gain access to the heater core straps and can remove the heater core by removing the heater core hoses, and the 4 screws to the straps and that's that. You just have to use some form of duct tape to put the cut piece of air distributor back on. I just might do it. This way the next time the heater core needs replaced, I don't have to remove all these fuggin screws, just, duct work, cables, actuators and all that ********. I just don't want it looking all rednecktified and like hell.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
42,056
Posts
908,165
Members
33,538
Latest member
Chuchito
Top