Inner Cab Heater/AC Housing Reference Pics

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RockyGryphon

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That flap is designed in such a way that, even when fully closed, there is always a certain amount of outside air allowed to be drawn in by the HVAC blower and enter the cab.

I hate this despite my own safety! It's what lets in the stench of stockyards and refineries!

This feature provides a constant exchange of the atmosphere within the cabin - that is a good thing.

I don't expect the cab to ever be airtight enough that my eardrums will rupture when I open the door, only from the distortion in my stereo speakers.

It helps maintain a low level of moisture which greatly increases the efficiency of the defroster system.

With all the duct tape, brand new blower motor with the long squirrel cage and all the door flaps pointing at the defrost duct, I think it's plenty efficient enough now!

It clears the interior atmosphere of unwanted odors and smoke from cigarettes.

There is no smoking in my cab and I take showers often enough, except today I'm waiting 'til next year.

But, most importantly, a constant flow through of fresh air ensures that carbon monoxide levels are kept below the point where they are harmful to your health.

I expect a constant flow of air no matter what (rust hole vents, etc.), and plan to crack the window, manual vent window if my electric ones stop working, rear sliding window, if I have to. Ok, but seriously for a moment, the most important reason I want to close the outside air inlet flap is because it sucks exhaust gas from the engine compartment from a badly sealed header pipe (not to mention other fumes ?EGR) most likely through the cowl and from under the bed where the tail pipes have been replaced by downspouts, especially while stopped with no wind. It doesn't hurt to eliminate outside fumes once in a while either.


I understand the warning about falling asleep on a long drive breathing my own bad breath (carbond dioxide, mixed with carbone monoxide exhaust fumes) with the windshield fogging up again despite my best efforts, but I plan on leaving the lower door vents open to suck out cold air and pull in fresh air from the door rust holes and other areas aside from the stinking engine compartment when I need to. That's why I was planning on putting a slider on those lower door vents so they only have to be closed when I fix the A/C with propane and want to keep the cold air at the bottom inside the cab.

Anyway, if I can seal the cab, I can go James Bond and use it as a flotation device after sealing all the other vulnerable parts and tricking out the wheels with fan blade rims and after driving into water, making the wheels pop out to clear the fender, and flip 90 degrees so I can put it in 4x4 and propel the truck like a submarine with a snorkel like one of those jeeps.

Happy New Year!


:big_banana_Dance:

I read somewhere that there's putty under the cowl. It looks like too big a job for me to close the outside air flap anyway. I'll end up wanting to do the whole vacuum system. Maybe even fix the exhaust! That's like fixing the A/C in winter!
 

RockyGryphon

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I removed the recirculation air flap cover on the right side of the passenger foot well with a 5/16 socket for the three screws.

The flap was closed with a spring which I unhooked from the flap/door and after pulling the door open, put the hook on the rubber so the spring wouldn't bounce off tthe vacuum pod and into the body. There was no pressure either way on the flap with the engine off. I suppose I could detach the spring to test vacuum under max ac and other settings and if there is any vacuum activated movement. Since I assume the system is not working, I don't expect any.

I also removed the wipers (small flat screwdriver under the tab out of the groove then pry wiper arm), cowl (four screws, pull rear pegs forward from one side[right for me] with the hood closed, then pull up and final peg and up), screen (two screws, pull front tabs up, then back tabs forward) both with 7mm or 9/32nd sockets, cleaned out the debris, unscrewd the two screws on the outside air flap/pod unit with the same socket (short because hood in the way) and determined that no amount of adding duct tape to the flap will close off the outside air in the way the flap is set (seems the pod has to push hard to move that flap the seems designed only to barely flex for a slight air restriction.

I decided to try seeing leaving recirc configured open will avoid the engine/exhaust fumes I always seem to get in the cab when running the blower at a standstill.

If this seems to work, I'll leave it and put your minds to rest about asphyxiation. If I still get fumes and stench, I'm finding something to cover the screen under the cowl; black duct tape or SOMETHING!

I did notice that it looks like a manual pull rod and knob could be added to control the recirc flapsince the kick panel mold seems designed for that. I suppose I could someday add one to either control the recirc flap, a cover on the top right screen, or both.

Though by that point, I might just have to repair the vacuum, duct and A/C systems instead.

I took plenty of pictures, but will have to go through them later before posting. Not sure if wipers, cowl, screen and external pod belong here or not.
 

RockyGryphon

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So how to access the outside air inlet flap under the cowl?

Sort of how I explained it in the previous post except with a few pictures.

Remove the wipers:
http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/showpost.php?p=204853&postcount=1

Remove the cowl, then the screen without breaking the five tabs under the front and the ones sticking out the back.

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Finally, check out that flap.

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RockyGryphon

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...and what about that recirculation flap?
This is the one on the right of the passenger side kick panel on my
1985 k10 silverado 6.2L Diesel with A/C (air conditioning).
That looks like it could have a manual rod and handle added where there's a hole in the mold.
Yes, I disconnected the spring and hung it on the rubber like that.
Yes I know the rubber will probably get destroyed eventually.
No, I don't ever plan to close this flap (unless I want to seal off the cab!).

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RockyGryphon

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So I pulled the cowl and screen again and covered all the openings with special heavy duty outdoor weather 3M duct tape. It helps to heat up sooner and avoid outside odors, but I still get them. Must be the door seals worn, lost flexibility from age, or frozen from the cold weather. I noticed water drips from the melting snow outside hanging from the middle of the top of the window frame on both doors. Maybe I need to duct tape the rust holes in my doors too.

This message was sent from my cheap old brand new ANDROID smartphone on, "Tapatalk"!
 

flyboy1100

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did anyone ever get pics of where exactly the lower 2 bolts are for the heater box w/ AC? are they the only 2 bolts under there?
 

flyboy1100

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To answer my own question, yes 2 bolts. Easily accessible with a long extension and a swivel
 

HotRodPC

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But they are real bitch to find and see, which is prolly why noone was able to get pics. unless you have the inner fender pulled, you won't be able to get a camera in there. You pretty much have to find them by feel.
 

flyboy1100

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I pulled the battery, put my head where the battery was and i could see them. When i put it back together i will snap a pic.
 

cobra20

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I can get some pics off of my blazer since the whole front end was wiped out in the accident. Just point me in the direction you need.
 

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flyboy1100

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Under the a/c box there are 2 long studs with nuts on them. I think they are the only 2 down there
 

cobra20

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ok I'll be pulling what's left of the passenger fender and I'll get some photos of them.
 

cobra20

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Ok so I pulled off what was left of my passenger side fender today and got those photos you guys wanted. There are 3 fasteners down there 1 looks to be a bolt the other 2 are studs with nuts on them. Here are the pictures of the 3 of them with the studs being first.
 

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flyboy1100

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Thanks, it is just the 2 under the box. Not sure what the bolt is for
 

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