Ignition Switch

[xm20k]

Agreed, the switch may be out of adjustment.

Also, if an auto trans, the neutral safety switch can cause the same symptoms as a failing ignition switch. Next time it doesn't start, try cranking it with the shifter in neutral instead of park.

I've had this happen would crank one second and not the next in park but in neutral it was fine.

Switch may need adjusted or something in the ignition system is being temperamental due to heat buildup or maybe a bad connection somewhere.

As long as the steering wheel unlocks, I would just build your own personal anti theft starting system.

I have a toggle switch on my ignition but that's so I can spin it over and only light the MSD box when I want to actually start it. Also have a momentary button wired into the starter wire under the hood so I can bump it over without a helper.

 

[Ricko1966]

Interesting. Years ago I had a Camaro where the headlights would randomly quit working for several minutes. I checked and cleaned the grounds for the front light harness and the problem has never come back. It's been at least 15 years. My friend owns the car now.

I know you know this there is a thermal breaker inside the headlight switch,and the headlight portion is not fed by a fuse. If there is a short or too much resistance,the breaker opens but then shuts again the speed of open and shut depends on the problem and how much heat has been created. So you may have blinking headlights or just poof they are out until the breaker resets. The intended purpose was a mild or temporary overload would cause blinking headlights so you still had some light to get off the road safely or to drive to where the problem can be fixed. That's why I don't like some aftermarket wiring harnesses. A momentary short results in an instant loss of headlights and they don't blink. A breaker would take a lot more to pop and in a mild situation would just blink.

 

[bucket]

I know you know this there is a thermal breaker inside the headlight switch,and the headlight portion is not fed by a fuse. If there is a short or too much resistance,the breaker opens but then shuts again the speed of open and shut depends on the problem and how much heat has been created. So you may have blinking headlights or just poof they are out until the breaker resets. The intended purpose was a mild or temporary overload would cause blink8ng headlights so you still had some light to get off the road safely or to drive to where the problem can be fixed. That's why I don't like some aftermarket wiring harnesses. A momentary short results in an instant loss 9f headlights and they don't blink. A breaker would take a lot more to pop and in a mild situation would just blink.

Actually, I did not know there is a thermal breaker in the headlight switch. You learned me something.