I really messed up

[79dentside]

The trucks brakes have been out, so I was going to do some new lines. Now I’m wondering what I was thinking. Have any of you done hardlines in your trucks? I kept rounding off the nuts as I was trying to disassemble things, so I am in a situation of having to replace a couple of the lines as I was planning to do anyways, but still.

I am worried about the passenger side line that runs to the rears. Since I damaged the line, I cut it out, but how does a person finagle a new line in that’s pre-bent?

I drew a terrible diagram from the booster down. The 2 pink highlighted segments are the ones I need to replace.

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I’m getting a little flustered over my mistake, I should have NOT messed with the steel lines. I have the line going to the rear and the line going to the front right to replace. I wasn’t sure if it was my line or the splitter that was bad so I just went at it with seized lines and now I regret it.

Any advice on a good set of lines and a good game plan of snaking it in with a 90 degree bend?

thanks!

 

[Turbo4whl]

In the future, Flare nut wrench and rust cutter. Work slowly back and forth.

Napa, and I'm sure other stores sell nickle plated copper brake line. You can bend it with your hands or use a tubing bender for tight bends.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Is that junction part way down the bed a stock line union? I thought mine was custom. My line from that union to the distribution block on the rear differential is leaking. Is that line premade somewhere.

 

[eskimomann209]

Is that junction part way down the bed a stock line union? I thought mine was custom. My line from that union to the distribution block on the rear differential is leaking. Is that line premade somewhere.

Pretty much every line for the brakes can be purchased pre bent. In a few different material choices as well.

OP This wouldn’t even register as a “really messed up” situation for me. I might also be a little irritated with myself as well. But this is very easy to come back from. As mentioned this is something you can hand bend but will still need to invest in flare tools for. Or spend a little more and order them pre bent for your situation. Depends on how much faith you have lost in yourself or how much you trust yourself to do the job right. Because remember, the only thing more important than getting your truck moving. Is knowing you can stop it.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Could he not also cut his prebent line with a tube cutter and flare and nut the ends he just created, allowing him to place the lines? Im not sure if they make any extra room or length, or if that could be made up anywhere. At least so the majority of work is done. Itd be a lot easier to make the back half than the front part, i would assume.

 

[Rusty Nail]

Dude.
Good line wrenches are NOT cheap but they are worth a TON!
I think the 12/14 mm Snap-On combination line wrench I have costs $26 bucks?
The 16/18 costs damned near forty dollars.

Worth maybe 5 times more than that.

 

[79dentside]

Is that junction part way down the bed a stock line union? I thought mine was custom. My line from that union to the distribution block on the rear differential is leaking. Is that line premade somewhere.

I was wondering the same, didn’t know if that junction was aftermarket or not.

The problem I am facing is that there are multiple sizes of nuts on the end.

I was considering running up to LMC truck today to see what they have. I have already tried buying unbent line, but the fittings don’t thread in. It’s close, but barely the wrong size.

maybe I could take the stock fittings off (the ones that aren’t ruined) and but them on the correct diameter pipe and flare it? I will let you guys know what I find. Thank you.

 

[HotRodPC]

Dude, just chill on yourself. You're talking a vehicle that's over 40 years old. It was probably about impossible to get those flare nuts off without rounding them. Not to mention, it's time to replace those steel lines anyway. So get over that.

 

[78C10BigTen]

In the future, Flare nut wrench and rust cutter. Work slowly back and forth.

Napa, and I'm sure other stores sell nickle plated copper brake line. You can bend it with your hands or use a tubing bender for tight bends.

Also if need be i used a small propane torch to heat the nut a little at a time while turnin back n fourth slowly.

 

[79dentside]

Also if need be i used a small propane torch to heat the nut a little at a time while turnin back n fourth slowly.

Thanks for the info guys, I did try a heat gun on the fitting until it smoked, but I was informed direct heat is probably a better option.

Going to see if I can find some lines...

 

[Kiely]

You need to make sure you are getting the appropriate nuts for the lines. There are SAE and metric pitched nuts, which depending on the trucks repair history could both be on your truck at the same time. It happened to me with an old Explorer once. Drove me nuts.

 

[Rusty Nail]

Nice add! ^^

 

[79dentside]

I was able to buy the rear line from LMC truck. They had the front too, but it was sold in a kit and I did not need all the components (4 piece kit for the front hard lines). So I had a fitting that I brought to the auto part store and they matched the threads on a piece of line. I just need to bend it.

 

[87ish-k10]

As said above, use nickel copper line, it's not cheap but itll never rust again, it's easy to flare, and bend. As for the rounded fittings, just cut the line off at the flare nut and put a socket on it, it won't round off anymore, most of the time you can reuse them! I do brake lines all the time at work because I live in the rust belt, it's a pretty common job.

 

[BBCfan]

Cut the line and use a six point socket or as mentioned GOOD quality flare nut wrenches. Heat, and the redder the better, is rusted bolts worst enemy...cherry red it and the things will fly out. Word of warning though, if brake fluid hits really hot metal it tends to catch fire or splatter. Top notch eye protection is a must!