How to tell roller cam or not

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HotRodPC

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I'm not reading the whole thread, but if it's not been said already, my spill that I'm aware of.... Since I'm all the important and all that good ****....

Even though the TBI truck blocks were "SET UP" for roller motor, they really weren't even "SET UP" for roller motor. Being that, although they may have been "CAST" and could have been a roller motor, they were never tapped and drilled or IMO, "SET UP" to be roller motors. Now you could take one of those castings and tap it and drill it and "SET IT UP" if you wanted to, but it's alot of work. Now what was "SET UP" for roller motor for the F body cars that had the V8 which were TPI as in Camaro and Firebird. Those are the motors that are highly sought after for the dirt track race circuit guys. But nawww, 98% chance your motor is NOT "SET UP" for roller cam.
 

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I think read somewhere the police cars got the roller stuff forsure.
I would say so. Trucks didn't get the rollers, Passenger Cars did, so even the Caprice would have been a roller motor cop car or not. Buick Roadmasters, all those cars with the 5.7 should all be roller motor and those weren't even TPI. I forgot all about those. So the trucks got 4 bolt NON Roller, Passenger Cars got 2 bolt Roller.
 

Paladin

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On my engine build , a 454 bored 60 over I wound up going total roller! I wanted it to scream the first time I finally drove it, not have to baby it as you normally have to after a fresh build. Attached are a couple photos showing the retro-fit roller lifters (Howards) which were necessary due to it being a Mark IV block. Thus required using special length pushrods (Howards) And lastly roller rockers (Howards). Forgot to mention I used a Howards Marine Cam too. .568 lift and 286 duration on intake, .578 lift and 292 duration on exhaust! About $1200 just to make the valves open and close, lol!! Running open headers on its initial voyage it had a very deep, threatening rumble, just what I wanted. Could almost hear each cylinder fire and when I put it to the floor it sounded like the apocalypse had begun.
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On my engine build , a 454 bored 60 over I wound up going total roller! I wanted it to scream the first time I finally drove it, not have to baby it as you normally have to after a fresh build. Attached are a couple photos showing the retro-fit roller lifters (Howards) which were necessary due to it being a Mark IV block. Thus required using special length pushrods (Howards) And lastly roller rockers (Howards). Forgot to mention I used a Howards Marine Cam too. .568 lift and 286 duration on intake, .578 lift and 292 duration on exhaust! About $1200 just to make the valves open and close, lol!! Running open headers on its initial voyage it had a very deep, threatening rumble, just what I wanted. Could almost hear each cylinder fire and when I put it to the floor it sounded like the apocalypse had begun.
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YES! Nice......
 

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Nice indeed..:waytogo:
 

bucket

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On my engine build , a 454 bored 60 over I wound up going total roller! I wanted it to scream the first time I finally drove it, not have to baby it as you normally have to after a fresh build. Attached are a couple photos showing the retro-fit roller lifters (Howards) which were necessary due to it being a Mark IV block. Thus required using special length pushrods (Howards) And lastly roller rockers (Howards). Forgot to mention I used a Howards Marine Cam too. .568 lift and 286 duration on intake, .578 lift and 292 duration on exhaust! About $1200 just to make the valves open and close, lol!! Running open headers on its initial voyage it had a very deep, threatening rumble, just what I wanted. Could almost hear each cylinder fire and when I put it to the floor it sounded like the apocalypse had begun.
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What did you do for cam retention? I got a timing set from Summit that includes a torrington bearing. I'm worried sick that one of those washers is going to drop out of place and tear everything up. Right now I just have a stock tin cover and a roller-type cam button.
 

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What did you do for cam retention? I got a timing set from Summit that includes a torrington bearing. I'm worried sick that one of those washers is going to drop out of place and tear everything up. Right now I just have a stock tin cover and a roller-type cam button.
Shouldn't have more than .002-.005 end play, no way are they gonna go anywhere.
 

bucket

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Shouldn't have more than .002-.005 end play, no way are they gonna go anywhere.

I like those numbers better. Iirc, the directions with the set said .005-.009 which seemed excessive. So will it not gain much clearance after a lot of road miles?
 

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I like those numbers better. Iirc, the directions with the set said .005-.009 which seemed excessive. So will it not gain much clearance after a lot of road miles?
Yes, that is too much, it can't gain any clearance there's nothing pushing the cam it just walks on it's own no pressure.
 

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What did you do for cam retention? I got a timing set from Summit that includes a torrington bearing. I'm worried sick that one of those washers is going to drop out of place and tear everything up. Right now I just have a stock tin cover and a roller-type cam button.
I just used a Cloyes Double roller timing set and end play was negligible. Last photo is just showing off her Jugs. SHE IS SHAMELESS!
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I have a cam button on mine. It’s been a while but I wanna say there is a bearing in it and there is a thrust bearing for the cam. Guess what I’m not doing........that’s right taking it apart to verify. Lol
 

Honky Kong jr

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I just used a Cloyes Double roller timing set and end play was negligible. Last photo is just showing off her Jugs. SHE IS SHAMELESS!
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What size combustion chambers do those heads have?
 

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