High Torque Starter

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78C10BigTen

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You can get the GM Hi Torque off the 96 Vortec 305 and 350's for sure. I'm thinking they actually started in 95 though even though it was the last year for TBI, but if you get one off of a 96-2001 350, you're good to go. Vans did keep the 5.7 350's longer than the trucks, maybe didn't go LS until 2003 or so. So if you went to a Pull A Part, or LKQ, you might have a good chance of scoring one cheap and then have a core when it does take a dump.
Does it need to be from a 350? Will a 305 work? Sorry scratch that, missread!!
 
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78C10BigTen

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FWIW I am running the stock style starter with long tube headers on a mild 350 and no heat shields or anything and have not had any issues with it overheating the solenoid, even in high 90 degree temps outside and after driving it. So I wouldn't really worry about an external solenoid on it at first and see if it causes any issues.
My stock 350 with long tubes and no heat shields also does fine with the factory boat anchor.
 

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Don't forget!!!

If you get one of the newer, smaller starters GET THE BOLTS TOO!!!

They are shorter than the old style.
 

Frankenchevy

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I think the vortec era 4.3 starters will work too, but I’d verify
 

78C10BigTen

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Yep, they are the same. Big block, small block, 4.3 V6... all the same.
So 305 vortec starter will work just the same as a 4.3? Just needs to be in those year ranges? Forgive me my brain lapsed and i did not comprehend... ive got it now!
 

bucket

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So 305 vortec starter will work just the same as a 4.3? Just needs to be in those year ranges? Forgive me my brain lapsed and i did not comprehend... ive got it now!

Right.
 

1987 GMC Jimmy

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Weird timing. The Delco-Remy starter on my Caprice started malfunctioning and making the most ungodly sounds. It wouldn’t engage the flexplate, but the motor would spin, and if I hit the starter a second time, it would engage and start the car, but it would sound like a coffee can full of nails for a few seconds after startup. That thing was horrible to remove (sandwiched between the motor and then the flexplate cover, y-pipe, and like a subframe brace that bolts to the frame in two spots and the lower control arm in one). Different sources recommended the removal of different ones of these obstacles, but I chose the brace.

I initially suspected the solenoid was failing, but something was mechanically damaged in there so I took it to my starter/alternator guy. It turns out the shift fork in there had broken in half lengthwise, and the solenoid was also on borrowed time so he replaced both. I wonder what could cause that to snap like that. If anyone knows, I’m all ears. I hope this starter lasts until I’m old and grey, but the next time it fails, I’m putting on a mini starter because that was a joke.
 

78C10BigTen

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Weird timing. The Delco-Remy starter on my Caprice started malfunctioning and making the most ungodly sounds. It wouldn’t engage the flexplate, but the motor would spin, and if I hit the starter a second time, it would engage and start the car, but it would sound like a coffee can full of nails for a few seconds after startup. That thing was horrible to remove (sandwiched between the motor and then the flexplate cover, y-pipe, and like a subframe brace that bolts to the frame in two spots and the lower control arm in one). Different sources recommended the removal of different ones of these obstacles, but I chose the brace.

I initially suspected the solenoid was failing, but something was mechanically damaged in there so I took it to my starter/alternator guy. It turns out the shift fork in there had broken in half lengthwise, and the solenoid was also on borrowed time so he replaced both. I wonder what could cause that to snap like that. If anyone knows, I’m all ears. I hope this starter lasts until I’m old and grey, but the next time it fails, I’m putting on a mini starter because that was a joke.
the ONLY time i had a 350 starter issue, i went out to go to work one day and i hit the key and it cranked normal for about 2 cranks then one hell of a noise and nothing... come to find out the nose cone had sheared off at the the base and the selenoid was pushing the whole nose forward into the flexplate. No other "boat anchor" starter issues since. But i would like to swap to a smaller, lighter, more powerfull factory starter if possible
 

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Any brands in particular? Rock has Delco, Power Select and Remy. I've also seen a TYC (?!) Heck - they even carry new bolts.
 

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Well thanks or the inspiration guys. I've tried twice the late model small starters and both let me down. So I figured they were junk and went back to boat anchors. But with a 496 with 10.5 to 1 in the oven I should reconsider and keep my eyes peeled..
 

QBuff02

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Yep, you need a high torque with that kind of compression.

I knew the fat lady was gonna sing on a stock starter eventually but I was so money deep in the project when I rebuilt the engine I said "it'll do for now" because I didn't want to spend a couple hundred more on yet another part when I had a perfectly good new starter sitting there. I was researching and looking at new ones to replace over the winter but just haven't found the one I like yet. Also, thought she might last more than one season and 750 miles.. Lol
 

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Well thanks or the inspiration guys. I've tried twice the late model small starters and both let me down. So I figured they were junk and went back to boat anchors. But with a 496 with 10.5 to 1 in the oven I should reconsider and keep my eyes peeled..
I'm running a Jegs high torque starter
on my 10.6-1 compression 496 for the past 5 years. Been a good starter so far.
 

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A lot of folks, myself included, prefer the the factory high torque starter that went into production in the mid 90's. They are smaller and lighter too. And reliable to boot.
I love those things! I bought a rebuilt AC Delco for my 55 sedan, and have a cheap import version on my pickup that I bought more than 10 years ago for another vehicle. It's great for header clearance and still going strong.

I believe they were used on mid-90s Corvettes and Impalas. And I'm not sure, but they may work only with 153-tooth (12.75" ?) flexplate/flywheel, not the larger diameter 168-tooth models.

I'm also not sure if they are truly higher torque than larger stock starters. In fact, I don't think they are gear reduction, because pinion shaft is in-line with motor. But they are permanent magnet which gives them the power of a larger conventional starter in a smaller package.
 

bucket

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I love those things! I bought a rebuilt AC Delco for my 55 sedan, and have a cheap import version on my pickup that I bought more than 10 years ago for another vehicle. It's great for header clearance and still going strong.

I believe they were used on mid-90s Corvettes and Impalas. And I'm not sure, but they may work only with 153-tooth (12.75" ?) flexplate/flywheel, not the larger diameter 168-tooth models.

I'm also not sure if they are truly higher torque than larger stock starters. In fact, I don't think they are gear reduction, because pinion shaft is in-line with motor. But they are permanent magnet which gives them the power of a larger conventional starter in a smaller package.

I don't know if they are gear reduction or not. I just know they are strong, lol.

On the cars with the smaller flywheel, the new type starter went into production much earlier, they were used on the LT1 cars for sure. It's a different starter than the truck version. 153 tooth takes the straight bolt pattern, 168 tooth takes the staggered bolt pattern. Just like the old starters.
 

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