headers??

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qdime2

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could someone help me here. i own a 1973 gmc c 1500 with a 350 and would like to get headers for it. I see some on e-bay but don't know if I need Shortys or not. I have a automatic transmission don't know if that matters or not..

Thanks
Jose
 

82k20

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it can depend will the truck be lowered long tubes can scrape if its lowered enough short tubes will be better for clearence . a shorty type header will give a better low to mid power long tubes do better at mid to high rpms. shorts are what i would get if the truck is lowered or if you need low to mid torque. the long tubes are what you want for mid to high end rpm power with long tubes you will lose some low end torque plus long tubes will need an exhaust change where short tubes for a majority rule will bolt to the stock exhaust.
 

Green79Scottsdale

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Sorry 82k20, you got that backwards.

Long tubes are more for lower rpm power.
Short tubes are more for upper rpm power.

I do agree with the stock versus lowered stance. Shorty's will help if you are lowering it. If it is stock, I would say go long tubes, I believe overall they are the best way to go. With either style, you will need to connect to your existing system. There are no true "plug and play" headers for our trucks.

Watch the specs on the e-bay ones. Most I have seen are 1 1/2" primaries. I like to see 1 5/8" primaries for a mostly stock street set-up. With that said, I have never run 1 1/2" primaries and never really heard feed back from people that have.

Look at summit. You can put in all the specs for your truck to get headers that will work.
 

Boone83K10

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No Green79, you have it backwards.

shorties are for low to mid range rpm power.
long tube is for mid to high rpm power.

long tubes create a negative wave pressure by pulling the exhaust down further therefore creating a better pull on the intake side. this is great for higher rpms/engines with bigger lobe separation.

shorties are good at dumping the exhaust out at lower rpm but they do not pull. this is increased performance at low rpms.
 

Green79Scottsdale

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Believe what you want.

edit: Primary pipe length can also skew an engine's power curve based on length changes. Primary-pipe diameter establishes the peak torque point, so changing the pipe length will rock the output curve by pivoting it around that peak torque point. Graph B shows how longer tubes tend to increase power below peak torque while hurting power above peak torque. Shorter tubes tend to affect the engine in exactly the opposite way, hurting midrange torque in favor of increasing top-end power.

Read more: http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/header_basics/#ixzz2pokuT0qT
 
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Boone83K10

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hmmph... I stand corrected, therefore I am sorry.
 
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I'm running pace setter shorties, I really dislike long tubes purely on the pain in the ass principle since I run all 4x4's. I can still change the starter without being mad with my shorties. The pace setters are a nice header with a good thick flange and a good price. The pace setters have two downsides though, the paint on them is not high temp and will burn off immediately and they do not come with the collector ring or the spring/bolt kit to attach your pipes. Probably why the price is right. Also, plugs are now a pain in the ass to change. :Frustrated:
 

82k20

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my bad thanks for clearing that up green79 im like you if he can do long tubes go for them
 

bucket

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The 'ol butt dyno says long tubes work great, every old truck should have them IMHO.
 

qdime2

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Thanx guys. Since my truck is scraping the pavement then I have no other choice than to go with shorties.
 

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