Headers with Tejas Steelworks mounts?

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Hey all, I am working on a 6.0 swap in my 79 C10. I started off with LS3 exhaust manifolds, then started looking at the Hooker manifolds. Then I saw they have the "downpipes" in stainless which would take a lof of time out of my exhaust build which will be all 304 stainless. Then again, the price of the manifolds and pipes is approaching LS swap header price.

Has anybody used headers with these mounts? I'm guessing that since they move the engine forward a lot of headers will hit something, but if I'm going to pay that much for manifolds I'd rather use headers if I can.

Gibson makes some that look nice and even though they're only 409L, I'll take it over mild steel especially for the price. They have pretty poor reviews in regards to fitment with slider type mounts, so I'm unsure if the Tejas design will be better or worse for them.
 

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keep diggin for "ls headers" here. Someone put up a few links to a cheaper alternative that may work. I can't remember if they used Teja mounts or not. It was recent.....like in the last 6 months or so.
 

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Yeah tough call there. I don't think the ones I was looking at will work. I think the Schoenfeld 1302LS1 headers may work. I've looked at the Speed Engineering but I'm leary of the Chinese parts. I'm guessing only the tubes are stainless...but maybe I'll give them a try.
 

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I have a set of the speed engineering headers myself and bought them based on reviews and price. I'll be honest, I dont care about how much stainless is on the headers because thats not where my build is going but I get where youre coming from. Theres a link I posted in the thread linked above where someone else mentioned Speed Engineering's headers. For the price i think they are worth a shot, if they fit even better. FWIW some guys in the Fbody scene run ebay stainless headers and have been happy with form and function.
 

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Looking at the pictures, I don't think these will clear with the Tejas mounts. Thanks for the suggestions guys, I'll make sure I come back and update if I find something that works.
 

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Still trying to figure out if the Speed Engineering will fit. Might have to roll the dice and order them to find out. Picked up Schoenfeld at the local Summit so I can easily return those at least, if needed. They fit great, other than the funky pass side collector position. Points a little in and up, and even using an offset 3 to 2.5" reducer it's going to be real close to the trans crossmember without dropping it down. Trying not to add a bunch of bends to keep costs down of course. Anyway here are possibly the first pics ever of Schoenfeld 1302LS1 headers in a squarebody with Tejas Steelworks mounts..

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Driver side is fine, pass side pipe (2.5") will be tight, may be ok but...

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Thanks for sharing. That passenger side might need a little dimple in the pipe or a small bend but its looking good.
 

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Speed engineering will fit with Tejas from what I recall. So far that I know they work with every LS swap header that is out as well as stock manifolds. Scotty did a lot of engineering on his swap mounts for clearance of pretty much any configuration that is out for both headers and the oil pans (in regards to clearance with the front cross member.) The only real caveat is his swap plates slide the engine further forward in the cradle to have ample clearance for the firewall, and they sit a little higher, so you need to double check your angle on the driveshaft. As such you will more than likely need to relocate your transmission crossmember forward and get a modified driveshaft (because the stock drivesahft can fail at higher RPM's if you are making stock LS power even), but that also depends on what transmission you had and what you will be using now. I highly recommend if you have questions though email or call Scotty, or reach out to him on Facebook and he'll respond pretty fast. He's very accessible! on facebook he will answer unde the Tejas Steelworks site and I think he has his phone # posted on his site as well.
 

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Thanks guys. I've spoken with Scotty a few times, from what I recall he recommends the Hooker manifolds which cost more than some of these long tubes. I'm running a fresh 4l80e, Dirty Dingo cross member and I'm having a new aluminum driveshaft built. Should be pretty cool! I keep going back and forth on the headers, but I keep thinking I'll keep these - they clear everything, don't require me to hack off bits of the transmission or run expensive plug wires. I'll just have them ceramic coated after I tweak them and weld up vband flanges which of course costs cha-ching but will help keep temps in the cab down I'm sure.

I'm going to wait until I have the driveshaft in but it's looking like I'll need to bring the pipes up after the cross member and mount the x-pipe over the driveshaft, maybe back under the seat area. The exhaust seemed pretty simple in my head months ago, but I guess it's not going to be!
 

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I tend to agree with Scotty on the Hooker manifolds, but mostly because you can use OEM exhaust parts with that. I have the speed engeneering shorty headers and while they look fantastic fitment around my old style 4l60E took some nudging and chopping the ears of the trans off (one pieces transmision) but I also took them and added V band clamps to them because mine were the gen 1 headers and that means I am going to have to do custom exhaust too, but I am OK with that.

I can not tell you exactly how to go about getting the white box hookers but if you check around on ebay or ask around someone on the facebook group someone can probably point it out to you. There are some cheap Hooker "knock-off" headers that come in a white box. A lot of folks thought they were chinese knock-offs, but it turned out it was real hooker headers but for some reason they were marketed as some kind of oem manifold that was sold at a much lower price than what you see for aftermarket pieces.

Also, FWIW I did not use Scotties motormounts but I am actually considering it when it comes time to swap transmissions. I'm starting out with a gen 1 4l60E from 1997 and I am sure I am going to thrash it soon after install so my next step will be to swap to a 4l80, and it sounds like you are on the pathway to doing things the right way the first time around.
 

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