Fuel line change on k30

[LFR]

How hard is it to change the fuel lines on a k30 dually and what can I use that won't rust

 

[chengny]

If by "dually" you are referring to the rear axle configuration; disregard that aspect of the job - the fuel lines don't go much past the rear cab wall:

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The routing is along the back of the cab, a 90 degree turn toward the front, inside the rail for a few inches, up over the top of the rail just forward of the RH rear cab mount and then outside the rail for the rest of the way. Below are some images showing the way they are routed. The frame-off photos are of a crewcab (with dual tanks) - that is why they are so far back. With a standard cab, they would start one cross member forward of the way they are shown - see the yellow tracer in the 1st image. The rest of the images show a standard cab. I'll let you gauge the difficulty of the job:

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To eliminate the possibility of losing a line to rust you could fabricate your lines out of stainless steel (or copper-nickel) tubing.

 

[LFR]

If by "dually" you are referring to the rear axle configuration; disregard that aspect of the job - the fuel lines don't go much past the rear cab wall:

You must be registered for see images attach

The routing is along the back of the cab, a 90 degree turn toward the front, inside the rail for a few inches, up over the top of the rail just forward of the RH rear cab mount and then outside the rail for the rest of the way. Below are some images showing the way they are routed. The frame-off photos are of a crewcab (with dual tanks) - that is why they are so far back. With a standard cab, they would start one cross member forward of the way they are shown - see the yellow tracer in the 1st image. The rest of the images show a standard cab. I'll let you gauge the difficulty of the job:

You must be registered for see images attach

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You must be registered for see images attach

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To eliminate the possibility of losing a line to rust you could fabricate your lines out of stainless steel (or copper-nickel) tubing.

Can I go buy my own copper nickel lines like brake lines at car quest and get a line bender and bend em up?

 

[chengny]

If you aren't hung up on exactly duplicating the OEM bends, don't think you even need a bender for Cu-Ni tubing. It's soft enough that you can just shape it by forming it around any appropriately sized piece of PVC pipe (like 2 1/2" pipe for wide radius bends and 3/4" for tighter bends). It it tends to kink up on you - or you want to make tight bends like some of the factory bends - get this type of bender:

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I bought that one at Harbor Freight a few years ago (currently $6.99) and - unlike most other HF tools - it has worked great. Keep the hinges and bending surfaces well oiled and it will make beautiful bends. With a little practice you be able to make the exact radius you need in one procedure.

Rubber is okay at the ends (fuel tank and gas pump end) but not near any part of the exhaust system. Also - at any point where rubber hose is to be used - is is important that the tube end be given a slight ridge to prevent the hose from popping off. Just use your flaring tool and do a single flare - but only flare it about halfway (a full flare is 43 degrees, make it like 20 degrees - that's plenty).

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Also, try to save and re-use your the OEM clamps for the rubber hose ends (the spring steel type that you squeeze with pliers to release). They won't ever loosen up - like the screw type hose clamps sometimes do.


Good, simple tube bending tips:

http://avstop.com/ac/apgeneral/tubeformingprocesses.html

 

[LFR]

Ok thanks