Fluid film / paint

[K5Rob]

I am in the process of doing some body work (rockers/floor patching) and want to clean up my frame while Im at it. There is what appears to be paint that is mostly just flaking off. The frame is solid with lots of life left. Im going to fluid film the frame and probably the floors as well.

I am wondering if i should paint first or not. I wasnt planning on it but thought i should ask. I am generally against the various under coat type options as they seem to do more harm than good in the long run.

I think fluid film over bare frame metal is the way to go but please correct me if im wrong.

 

[Grit dog]

If it’s flaky rust or paint, obviously paint ain’t going to stick. So if you’re not going to clean it up first then a lubricant/protectant is a valid measure, albeit not gonna last all winter if you’re driving it regularly in the salt/slush.
I’d clean it up first best you can. Paint stripper/grind/wire wheel/pressure wash. Then I’d paint it with a good direct to metal/rust type chassis paint.
Then use the Fluid Film or whatever to protect the areas you can’t reach as well as those you can. If you’re gonna drive it in salt.

 

[dd1990]

Ive never used fluid film but I have used that GM black waxy undercoating, paint can hold in moisture the benefit of the wax coating is it breaths.

 

[Shorty81]

Fluid Film is lanolin based. It is very good as a corrosion resistance. We use it in molds segments at work because it hangs in through high heat and steam cycles. I live in the rust belt and I use it on my vehicles with decent success. It seems to cling onto the metal for a long time.

 

[Grit dog]

I like ospho for rust too. Then hit it with a rattle can or chassis paint.
But with just surface rust on frame and chassis, I just degreased and pressure washed the frame, bed, etc. Painted over paint, rusty metal, old tar undercoating etc.
Been good for 4 years now. Looks like it was painted yesterday.
Single stage direct to metal/rust urethane chassis paint.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[K5Rob]

Looks good guys

Ive never used fluid film but I have used that GM black waxy undercoating, paint can hold in moisture the benefit of the wax coating is it breaths.

what is the gm black waxy undercoating? I have an old malibu which has some oily tar like stuff on it in areas. Hated the stuff as i would get covered in it. Actually had to clean some of it off in a few spots like around the clutch linkage area just so i would stop getting covered in it. But when i did, underneath was brand new. Granted I dont drive this car in the winter but it would be nice stuff for this project here. I do like the fluid film black but as you guys stated it is pretty thin and needs regular maintenance. And i havent put it to the test yet either. Im gonna do my best to keep this truck off the road in the winter but it may see occasional use, really not sure yet.

 

[Sad Sack]

You are probably thinking of a product similar to WoolWax (thicker), it is similar to FluidFilm (thinner), they are lanolin based and considered dynamic since they are able to "migrate". And indeed, can be very messy since they never really dry / harden.
I will be doing my truck soon with WoolWax. The shop will chemically wash, then descale (important part) the undercarriage then apply the product. It'll probably run up near $1800 for the complete package.

 

[Grit dog]

You are probably thinking of a product similar to WoolWax (thicker), it is similar to FluidFilm (thinner), they are lanolin based and considered dynamic since they are able to "migrate". And indeed, can be very messy since they never really dry / harden.
I will be doing my truck soon with WoolWax. The shop will chemically wash, then descale (important part) the undercarriage then apply the product. It'll probably run up near $1800 for the complete package.

Why? Are you driving that classic C10 in the winter in Nebraska?
If so, it makes sense, I suppose. But seems like an unlikely scenario.
If not, there are things that make more sense to do than make the bottom of your nice looking truck all goopy.
Stuff is great if it’s needed. But doesn’t make sense imo unless you’re going to run in salt.
Fresh water doesn’t rot out vehicles. It cleans them then it dries up. That’s why vehicles are so rust free here where it rains 6-8 months a year. It’s like a free undercarriage wash every time you drive in the rain.

 

[Sad Sack]

Why? Are you driving that classic C10 in the winter in Nebraska?
If so, it makes sense, I suppose. But seems like an unlikely scenario.
If not, there are things that make more sense to do than make the bottom of your nice looking truck all goopy.
Stuff is great if it’s needed. But doesn’t make sense imo unless you’re going to run in salt.
Fresh water doesn’t rot out vehicles. It cleans them then it dries up. That’s why vehicles are so rust free here where it rains 6-8 months a year. It’s like a free undercarriage wash every time you drive in the rain.

I was looking at it with a more of concern of aesthetics, vehicle has suffered underneath from past exposure to the Nebraska elements and to me beautifying the chassis would make it look good for the car shows (its a garage queen now) and quite possibly make it a more marketable vehicle if decide to sell it, which I am currently considering. Is it really needed, probably not but sure would look better than it does now. And of course, others opinions are accepted with open arms.

 

[Grit dog]

I was looking at it with a more of concern of aesthetics, vehicle has suffered underneath from past exposure to the Nebraska elements and to me beautifying the chassis would make it look good for the car shows (its a garage queen now) and quite possibly make it a more marketable vehicle if decide to sell it, which I am currently considering. Is it really needed, probably not but sure would look better than it does now. And of course, others opinions are accepted with open arms.

Ok so you’re after appearance primarily. And it’s a Sunday go meetin truck not a daily.
Of course don’t know how “bad” it is. But the prep work will be the key component here (like everything, right?).
Once it’s cleaned well and any loose rust flaky paint removed as good as possible. It’s ready for some paint, IMO. That will look better and protect well and NOT be oily greasy gross every time you crawl under it.
Even if you pay someone to prep it, that’s the time consuming messy part. Painting is easy. Even rattle can will last a long time on a garage queen.
Just my opinion, but save the Wool wax, fluid film, Krown etc for winter daily’s and beaters.

 

[dd1990]

Looks good guys

what is the gm black waxy undercoating? I have an old malibu which has some oily tar like stuff on it in areas. Hated the stuff as i would get covered in it. Actually had to clean some of it off in a few spots like around the clutch linkage area just so i would stop getting covered in it. But when i did, underneath was brand new. Granted I dont drive this car in the winter but it would be nice stuff for this project here. I do like the fluid film black but as you guys stated it is pretty thin and needs regular maintenance. And i havent put it to the test yet either. Im gonna do my best to keep this truck off the road in the winter but it may see occasional use, really not sure yet.

Actually I just found a can I sued to coat my frame its called RP-342, I could have sworn GM had a product of the same but I may be mistaken.

 

[Sad Sack]

Ok so you’re after appearance primarily. And it’s a Sunday go meetin truck not a daily.
Of course don’t know how “bad” it is. But the prep work will be the key component here (like everything, right?).
Once it’s cleaned well and any loose rust flaky paint removed as good as possible. It’s ready for some paint, IMO. That will look better and protect well and NOT be oily greasy gross every time you crawl under it.
Even if you pay someone to prep it, that’s the time consuming messy part. Painting is easy. Even rattle can will last a long time on a garage queen.
Just my opinion, but save the Wool wax, fluid film, Krown etc for winter daily’s and beaters.

I may just stick to descaling and paint / rattle can the underside, it been a thought intensive topic and I do appreciate your input that's for certain, cuz yes working under it would a messy nightmare.

 

[K5Rob]

I think I will be going with the woolwax for a majority of the truck. I like that it’s thicker. And I see a gallon of it at a good price. My question is, if i buy their cheap gun, is it something I can do in the driveway? IE - without a lift - meaning the gun may be pointed almost vertically at times. Can it handle this? Another thought is to just brush or roll it on. Anyone have experience actually applying the stuff?

 

[Ricko1966]

I may just stick to descaling and paint / rattle can the underside, it been a thought intensive topic and I do appreciate your input that's for certain, cuz yes working under it would a messy nightmare.

Don't forget the ospho!!! Ospho (phosphoric acid) over a washed with a water based cleaner,is the magic bullet in easy rust protection. I spray it out of a garden sprayer. If you read POR15 instructions they say wash with marine clean(water based cleaner) use their metal ready prep ( phosphoric acid) coat with thier magic paint. The cleaner and acid are the magic.I use purple power or simple green, Ospho then what ever enamel I have handy.

 

[Grit dog]

Zep industrial degreaser in the gallon jug works great too.
I usually have some full strength in a spray bottle and some diluted in a garden sprayer.
I use it equally between cleaning goopy old cars and cleaning the shop floors.