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Might be too much cam for the little 283Cranked the truck up and drive it out of the neighborhood. Let it sit running for while. So effing loud. But it just doesn’t seem to run right. Almost like a vacuum leak but I can’t find one. Like it’ll run low low rpms and then all of a sudden spike and run high for awhile. It never really gets that nice cam sound, either way too low rpm or like you’re holding your foot on the gas a little
If the valves were over tightened it would run erratic, like really bad, and a vacuum gauge would bounce just as bad. Been there done that on Crusty Biscuit. Went with 1/2 turn instead of 1 turn and it smoothed out. I later changed the cam because the one it was a sh!tty cam. Sounded cool, but ran like cr@p, was gutless no matter how I timed it or tuned the carb. Went with the 300hp/327 cam, but the engine in Crusty is not a 283.I wonder if my low idle/surging idle could be due to over tightening valves?
Remember if you bump the initial timing you have to limit the amount of centrifugal in the distributor. What advance springs are on it now? Do you know?Man, the more I read about the thumper cam I got, the more I think it was a terrible choice. 279/297 .479/.465 Apparently it wants higher compression than what I have, and a higher converter. I can attest to that by the way I have to rev it to take off….and it definitely hurt the drivability on the top end. 60 is at much as I wanna go.
I brought my trailer home so I can load the truck up and take it to a remote area to see if I can give it some more timing and play with it. But I’m really starting to think I should go back to the stock cam or at least something better suited for the little 283
I have no idea. It’s just a unit from oreillys like a street fire or somethingRemember if you bump the initial timing you have to limit the amount of centrifugal in the distributor. What advance springs are on it now? Do you know?
Found some info on the web for you. Have you installed the limiter on the vacuum advance? It should have come with one. And they sell a seperate advance kit which if bumping the timing helps out from idle to 2500 rpm or so, I'd suggest you get it. It comes with limit bushings to bring the advance in the distributor down to 18* which would allow you to run 18 degrees more or less initial. Also the softer springs would bring the centrifugal in sooner.Remember while testing at your mom's if you go 18 degrees + the 22 in the distributor will be 40* which is probably too much total.Headed to my mom‘s house in the boondocks so I can fire this thing up and give it some timing and idle.
I haven’t touched the mixture screws. Honestly, I’m just adjusting the what you would call idle stop screw I guess. What is the proper position for how far that thing is screwed in? Is there one?You don't check timing with the advance hooked up. I would usually check it with the engine revved past point of maximum advance. Shoot for 36*. But since I know there's 22 centrifugal in that distributor,check it now at a low idle,vac disconnected. Bump it up to 18,see if it's better bump it to 20 see if it's better. As for idle are you setting it with the mixture screws? If you run the idle stop screw in too far you create a new set of problems.
You need to set your mixture screws,then adjust the throttle stop screw. Usually while the carb is off you look at the transition circuit and with the throttle closed the slot should appear to be square not rectangle. @legopnuematic has a good pic. Then you set your timing,then you set set your mixture screws. Then you fine tune idle speed with the stop screw. If you have to turn it in a bunch we have to figure out why.because open too far steals fuel from the transition circuit. Rumor has it,but I've never checked, as long as you aren't pulling vacuum at the ported vacuum source you aren't in too far.I haven’t touched the mixture screws. Honestly, I’m just adjusting the what you would call idle stop screw I guess. What is the proper position for how far that thing is screwed in? Is there one?