Finally got a running 65 C10

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1low4x4

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Never mind casting numbers say 283
 

Ricko1966

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So someone on YouTube said this isn’t a 283 it’s a 305 they cited the fact that the 283 doesn’t have an oil filter on the block?

Now I’ve got to run the numbers I’m surprised I didn’t when I had it out
How did they make the jump straight to 305? What about large journal 327s 307s 350s 262s and 400s
 

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How did they make the jump straight to 305? What about large journal 327s 307s 350s 262s and 400s

Because they didn't know what they are talking about. They probably don't even know that the later ones have larger journals.
 

1low4x4

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Hell idk yall tell me
 

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DoubleDingo

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Hell idk yall tell me
Does it by chance still have the numbers on the pad on the front of the block? May help decipher more if it does

Edit: I see this was already covered in posts 38 and beyond
 

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Did you measure the cylinder bores, crank and rod journals while it was apart?
 

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By the numbers it is 1959-1968 , 283 or 307 and they made spin on filter adapters that went on the block right where the the cannister filter went. Also that block originally had a draft tube. PCV became mandatory 67 maybe 66. So that makes that block a 283.
 

1low4x4

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No I didn’t.

So my old exhaust doesn’t bolt up to the new headers. The new headers are a smaller flange size.

How the hell am I going to get this thing 35 minutes away to the exhaust shop? I could have it hauled on a wrecker or haul it on my car hauler but I still need to crank it, warm it up enough to drive on the lift and that’s assuming they’ll even be ready for it when I get there.

I bought the collector flange things to bolt up to the headers, maybe I go buy some 2.5” pipe and make temp straight pipes so I can drive it?

This thing sat in a field for years judging by the rust
 

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1low4x4

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By the numbers it is 1959-1968 , 283 or 307 and they made spin on filter adapters that went on the block right where the the cannister filter went. Also that block originally had a draft tube. PCV became mandatory 67 maybe 66. So that makes that block a 283.
Yes it did have a draft tube thanks
 

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No I didn’t.

So my old exhaust doesn’t bolt up to the new headers. The new headers are a smaller flange size.

How the hell am I going to get this thing 35 minutes away to the exhaust shop? I could have it hauled on a wrecker or haul it on my car hauler but I still need to crank it, warm it up enough to drive on the lift and that’s assuming they’ll even be ready for it when I get there.

I bought the collector flange things to bolt up to the headers, maybe I go buy some 2.5” pipe and make temp straight pipes so I can drive it?

This thing sat in a field for years judging by the rust
Drive it uncorked and turn all kinds of heads.

The plus side, you won't hear the fan. The bad, you won't be able to hear anything once you get there
 
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Ricko1966

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If the bolt patterns were the same bolt pattern on the header flanges and the old exhaust would your old exhaust get you to the shop?
 

1low4x4

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If the bolt patterns were the same bolt pattern on the header flanges and the old exhaust would your old exhaust get you to the shop?
Not really, I tried to make it work but had to cut it. Wouldn’t it “burn valves” driving it open headers for length of time?
 

Ricko1966

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Not really, I tried to make it work but had to cut it. Wouldn’t it “burn valves” driving it open headers for length of time?
I see no possible way running open headers could burn a valve,I have heard people say they've warped a valve running open headers Theoretically possible I suppose,but I have never seen in it in real life,and I've run open headers many,many times. Been around tons and tons of open headers also. Friends,drag strips, sand cars,etc.
 
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