Finally got a running 65 C10

[1low4x4]

No I haven’t. I can’t get it running normal enough to drive it that far.

I mean it runs, sits and idles, but the idle changes….i figured vacuum leak but I can’t find one. I tried spraying carb cleaner at it but nothing really changed. I redid the carb gaskets, it has the Mr gasket 1932 adapter on it.

I resealed the egr port in the intake or whatever that was. The one extra port on the carb is plugged.

Every day that I crank it, I have to change the idle screw to make it idle. You would think once you got it set where the throttle was good, at a good RPM, it would be the same the next day, but it’s not. The only reason I even messed with the idle screw in the first place was when I didn’t have the gas pedal hooked up to the carburetor when I first crank the engine and I wanted it to run and idle so I twisted the screw in.

Today I cranked it after redoing the gaskets, and it would barely run even after warming it up they wanted to die. So I had to turn the idle screw in like over a full turn. Then I let it sit an idle while a rain storm came through and after a couple of minutes, the RPM ramped up really high like you stepped on the gas and held it there. Like 2000 RPM or better. So in the rain, I opened the hood and backed the screw off a half turn and now it’s been idling at that number for five minutes with no real fluctuation that I can hear.

Any ideas? Timing set to about 38-39 total distributor is brand new…

 

[Ricko1966]

No I haven’t. I can’t get it running normal enough to drive it that far.

I mean it runs, sits and idles, but the idle changes….i figured vacuum leak but I can’t find one. I tried spraying carb cleaner at it but nothing really changed. I redid the carb gaskets, it has the Mr gasket 1932 adapter on it.

I resealed the egr port in the intake or whatever that was. The one extra port on the carb is plugged.

Every day that I crank it, I have to change the idle screw to make it idle. You would think once you got it set where the throttle was good, at a good RPM, it would be the same the next day, but it’s not. The only reason I even messed with the idle screw in the first place was when I didn’t have the gas pedal hooked up to the carburetor when I first crank the engine and I wanted it to run and idle so I twisted the screw in.

Today I cranked it after redoing the gaskets, and it would barely run even after warming it up they wanted to die. So I had to turn the idle screw in like over a full turn. Then I let it sit an idle while a rain storm came through and after a couple of minutes, the RPM ramped up really high like you stepped on the gas and held it there. Like 2000 RPM or better. So in the rain, I opened the hood and backed the screw off a half turn and now it’s been idling at that number for five minutes with no real fluctuation that I can hear.

Any ideas? Timing set to about 38-39 total distributor is brand new…

Give it more timing. Are you connected,vacuum advance to manifold vacuum? What kind of vacuum are you pulling at idle? If you were already connected to manifold vacuum,then bump base timing,see if that helps then we'll have to limit centrifugal advance so your total stays the same. I am not a fan of thumper cams. What carbureator are you running?

 

[1low4x4]

So I figured out that it’s just super cold natured without a choke. You have to hold it at an elevated rpm for like 2 minutes, then slowly let off the throttle, and it will run SUPER slow, potato potato potato, then eventually as it warms up it will gain rpm like normal.

 

[1low4x4]

Quality radiator from my friends radiator shop and a new shroud. New hoses and mounts

 

[idahovette]

What's it for?^^^^^^^^^^never mind forgot this was a 65.......

 

[DoubleDingo]

Quality radiator from my friends radiator shop and a new shroud. New hoses and mounts

Nice! Hopefully your fan fits in there good and centered. You'll find out soon enough

 

[1low4x4]

Nice! Hopefully your fan fits in there good and centered. You'll find out soon enough

I’d honestly like to go to an electric fan and will soon I’m sure. I hate the clutch fan sound when you rev the engine working the clutch when you take off

I have longtube 1 5/8 headers and flanges coming tomorrow as well as stage 8 locking bolts. After I get the headers on I’m going to get it to the exhaust shop for tails and mufflers

 

[DoubleDingo]

I guess I've driven more old vehicles than new. Old car fan noises don't bother me, whereas, electric fans do.

I have to ask, why did you buy the shroud if you're going electric?

 

[1low4x4]

Wasn’t planning on e fans until I drive the truck the other day and revving the thing so it won’t die with the clutch makes the fan go in overdrive and I’d just rather not listen to it

Today I took the driver side header out and get the new one in, I ended up not wrapping it just paint it with high temp which is now half scratched off. Stage 8 locking bolts, had to jack the truck up as high as the jack would go to get the header in from the bottom. Wouldn’t go in from the top. I was worried about the clutch Z bar, but it went back in fine. New fell pro gaskets. These headers are longer than the old ones and I like how they have the solid welded flange instead of the loose one. I bought collectors to mount onto these for the exhaust shop to take it from there. But I’m going to chop some pipe off the end of the runs by the axle so I can move it back and at least bolt the mufflers back up to the headers so I can drive it the 35 minutes to the exhaust shop that everyone recommends.

Took the radiator out, the new one fits nicely. I’m just waiting on the mounts and the clamp for the top and the new hoses.

The exhaust and the cooling are really big parts of the build and this thing will be so much more fun to drive when they’re done

It’s FINALLY decent weather here in Texas so wrenching has been enjoyable

 

[1low4x4]

I actually ran these exact hooker headers on 2 of my squares

 

[1low4x4]

Also the shroud doesn’t fit. Clutch fan too big around.

 

[Ricko1966]

Keep in mind if you go electric, most electric fans published ratings are grossly over stated. And most of the aluminum shrouds I ve seen were designed as nothing more than a mount for the fans.With almost zero regard for true real function as a shroud. If I went electric I'd be looking at using a factory fan and shroud or mounts from a production vehicle. Something else to keep in mind factory electric fans draw significant power,and not just because they wanted amp sucking fans and couldn't find more efficient fans. I think a Ford Taurus fan will out perform 99% of aftermarket electric fans. One last thing of interest electric fan manufacturers do not recommend E fans on 4 core radiators.

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[legopnuematic]

I guess I've driven more old vehicles than new. Old car fan noises don't bother me

Heck, I don’t think I’ve ever even heard/noticed the fan noises while driving. Clutch fans on everything, except my tractor and the dart have fixed fans.

 

[DoubleDingo]

Heck, I don’t think I’ve ever even heard/noticed the fan noises while driving. Clutch fans on everything, except my tractor and the dart have fixed fans.

I've read other forums where people complained of fan noise in newer vehicles, so it is a thing. But yeah, even mild exhaust and no radio with windows down, and it's difficult to hear the fan, and I personally have great hearing.

Hoping he gets all the gremlins worked so he doesn't decide to scrap this jewel of a stepside.

 

[1low4x4]

never bothered me before either until I put a cam in a v8 on a ****** three on the tree with the shortest first and second gears in the world. Have to rev the thing to take off and the fan gets loud as hell.

Auto trans youd never hear it

Anyway for now it’s staying because I don’t want the truck down for the nicest driving weather of the year while I piece together e fans. Same with trans. Eventually I’ll get rid of this trans it really makes it not fun to drive. I’m loosely looking for a 2004r