figureing out th350 leak.(front)

[Swims350]

I been talking with HRPC on this one, working on a short(6") tail th350 has a leak from inside the bellhousing area. HRPC told me of course the main things are your front seal and such, checked em out seemed fine to me.

It's not too old of a seal BTW, maybe a few years if that. Anyways, got some pics...

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noticed this chunk gone over the pump, not sure if it has anything to do with the leak or not.

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tried to get pics of the bushing..

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TC snout, nor ridges, but there is one spot I can catch my finger nail on, it's about 3/4 inch from the top(the part that goes into the pump gears)This is a new TC only 2-3 years old I think 2.

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Now what I was telling HRPC was the thing had the kickdown cable locked in the passing positon somehow, wasn't even hooked up to the carb, and the car backed over a creek bank as well. I'm pretty sure going over the bank has alot to do with it, and caused the paint scraped off the TC...

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[Manbearpig]

Converter have any cracks around the snout?

 

[Swims350]

not that I saw anywhere.

 

[HotRodPC]

I'd say that chunk has something to do with the leak. Not that the chunk is leaking, but that is a sign that when the car went over that creek bank you were telling me about, the torque converter took a big hit, and crashed into the case and broke that gouge out. Notice its almost staight up 12 O clock. I'd say the pump needs to come off and inspepected. and check for a straight stator too. Something had to give there, and something has to be damaged. Also, you won't like this, but how is the condition of this motor? Oil pressure etc? Get a pry bar and pry the flywheel or crank flange about from the block. In that accident, its possible when the TC took the hit, it could have also damaged the thrust on the crank. If that crank is walking forward to backwards at all, the thrust is damaged. Usually in that case though ,the rear main seal is also usually short lived.
I'd for sure take the pump off check it out thorughly. New gasket, O ring and seal there. Maybe sure the TC snout is square and straight too. Replace the pump bushing also. Then I'd put a washer between the flyhweel and the converter bolts so that is riding on a differant surface of the snout on the seal. That fingernail snag you feel, might be your leak of that edge matches up with the seal. So you need the get the seal before or behind that spot on the snout.

 

[Swims350]

hmmm good info.

LOl I don't care, my bro in law is the one who is gonna crap about it. I just have to put up with it in my yard torn apart LOL.

I'll check the crank, that had slipped my mind, I know exactly what you mean.

Now to be honest that was a junkyard trans and I aint sure if it ever had that piece(that is missing now) or if it did come off. Good point on 12 o clock though.

I aint skeered to pop the pump but man who do you get it out? I saw the all thread rod tric but the bolts screw into the case don't they? How will that pull it? I took the other(junk/parts trans) apart, and I used the trick I saw on one of the vids, the valve body, well seperator plate was out leaving that hole open, used a screwdriver to shove up on the pump, came right out. I would like to not have to remove the VB but if I have to I will.

Any good way to tell on them being straight? and not bent? a square? I got a frame square and speed square, should have a straight edge too, but don't have a dial indicator or "run out gauge" anything or that nature.

If I think of anything else I'll post. Might be dalyed again due to rain, and yall will love this one.....

Went to autozone, told em I needed a front seal for a 74 chevy truck, 350 motor, 350 trans, told the guy 3 spd. auto th350. he brings me up a timken part no. and says he'd have to order it, I wait 2 days for it, wrong part. I asked him on my way out, "now that's for a 3 spd. AUTO right?" he said yes, well NO!!!!!!!!!!!! it's for a 4 spd. muncie or 3 spd. manual. way too small, how dumb.

oh as for oil pressure it had the light only until now, I got a gauge on it now sunpro mech. and it runs 25 psi cold, unknown miles on the motor.

 

[HotRodPC]

You know I was way tired looking at those pics earlier and had just got home from the part time thing. Took me a couple hour nap, read your PM and link back to here, and I have a differant outlook to ponder this time. I notice the front pump and trans are dry and clean as about can be. Did you clean this off??? The chunk did catch my eye and that is only proof there was damage done by the converter. The converter hit that one way or another. But, now looking at all the pics again, I notice all the pics of the converter are shiney like its wet. Then I look at the TC snout closer. I have a feeling, if you have that converter pressure tested, you'll find your leak. Right there at the weld of that snout. Look at the discoloration around the snout. I almost look like a trail. I say its a seepage type leak, and its damage done, as I 've stuck with all along from the accident. You just can't bounce a car off its torque conveter and not have damage, and proof it had a good jult is at the top of that pump with the missing chunk out of the case. I'd almost bet on it, that the TC needs replaced or at least repaired. You can almost tell at the top of the weld to the snout, it just about looks like the weld broke loose from the snout. A TC shop will pressure test it for you and maybe able to fix it, but knowing what the TC went thru, I'd just replace it. Stock OEM rebuilt TC's are not that much. If you feel confident, I'd still go ahead and replace that pump bushing too cuz you know it took a hit as well. And do the new seal since you're there and they are cheap insurance.

 

[oneluckypops]

It does look like the converter is leaking but you do not need to take it to a trans shop to have it pressure tested, you can do it your self.

Plug 1 of the 2 cooler lines and install an air fitting in the other one, then bolt the Dipstick tight to the bellhousing bolt holes. Then put the pump seal back in it, slide the converter back in. Hook a air hose REGULATED to 25psi up to the fitting in the cooler line then hold pressure in on the converter. Apply air and watch for the leak with the trans on a work bench where you can see the converter. When you start seeing fluid leaking the remove the air supply and observe the converter, pump gasket, ect.

Edit; you can also use the pressure test port to apply the air

 

[HotRodPC]

You can get that pump off wo removing the pan or valve body. Just get you some longer 3/8 bolts, put jamb nuts on the end of them, and some big flat washers to have something to pry off of, then pry off the trans case. I haven't broke a trans case yet doing it that way. The right way to do it is with dent pullers or slide hammers but I've never done it that way. I've always used my all threads, with washers and jamb nuts, then pryed it off the bell housing or the lower portion of the case near the pan.

 

[Swims350]

I had wiped it off, BUT we dumped the fluid out and it had some all over it. I thought it looked funny though too. In order to test it with air I'd have to buy a seal to put back in it, and if I don't use that pump I'd need another seal.

Good info though because I would like to check it, and would almost have to do it here. I don't think we have any torque converter shops or anything. Also new rebuilt TC's are $80 a piece, that's what this one is and what I paid for it.

 

[towman]

in this area there is a trans shop that rebuilds their own converters

 

[HotRodPC]

in this area there is a trans shop that rebuilds their own converters

That really is rarity to find, but we happen to have one of those here too. Mostly does nothing but Hi Po stuff though.

 

[Swims350]

yea we got nothing here, no speed shops like jegs or summit, no check shucks or kragen, no driveline shop, and only 2 trans rebuild shops. One being the guy we know very well, but who screwed me over on mine.

 

[crazy4offroad]

Yeah Logan is a good ride wayyy down the road from me. Driveline Services' shop is just a little ride up the Elk river from me.

 

[Swims350]

yep everything is over towards the city, or charleytown lol.

 

[HotRodPC]

DACCO is usually a good brand for an OEM refurb if any of your local auto parts carry them.