Exhaust manifolds the same?? need to know

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Unholy76

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My 1976 Suburban C10 2WD has massive exhaust leaks from the collector joint where the factory manifolds meet the exhaust pipes. Attempted to tighten or remove the bolts, but afraid to break off the studs as one is already broken. So I plan on replacing the entire manifolds but have two questions.
Will factory manifolds from a truck work with my current exhaust? Or does it have to be a burb to match?
If I go aftermarket, will they match up with the current exhaust? Dont want to re-do that...

Any input is appreciated!
 

bucket

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Trucks parts are the same. Manifolds did change some over the years, but new ones for your year will fit fine.
 

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if its a small block pretty much all truck manifolds dump at the same location 73-86/87? they may look different but should dump in same location. just double check where they dump and wether or not your engine oil dipstick will interfere. As far as the block side of the manifold, if it came off a small block it will fit on a small block 262-400
I personally prefer the style that heads down in a W shape from the block, seems to me that they may flow a little better.

you may need a manifold spreader to get them installed with out stripping your hardware. Their cheap to pick up at parts store

Don't forget to use anti seize on all hardware !
 

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Every set I have ever installed I have had to remove the old studs first. Its a heck of a lot easier to do it in a workbench vise. I have had success heating up the manifold around the stud bolt and removing, if you break it off then grind it flat and drill it out and then retap the hole. I cant remember what size off hand. but always drill a size smaller then you want to tap it to.

If you take the manifold off to do this it affords you the opportunity to clean them and paint if so desired as well as install new manifold to block gaskets and apply new ANTI SEIZE to all hardware.

If there is nothing wrong with your current set of manifolds aside from rusty old exhaust studs, save buying new/junkyard manifolds (which you will have the same issues with junkyard ones anyway) and clean up/refurbish your existing ones. As well you will be guaranteed they fit.
 

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The only thing I know of that will fit your stock exhaust is edelbrocks shorty headers. They dump in your stock location using OEM style flanges. Last time I checked they were $400

Stock cast iron manifolds will last and keep under hood temps down. Youll be lucky to get 10 years out of a set of headers.

I have a stock 350 with Edelbrock 2701 manifold and Edelbrock 1806 carb and it goes like snot with 33" tires, 700r4 and 3.42 gears using stock 70 something W style manifolds.

Unless your really set on upgrading to headers and you got a bunch of extra cash burning a hole in your pocket I would just put some elbow grease into your current stock manifolds.

Your carb will run lean if you go to headers.

Really the only time you want/need to go to headers is if you have installed an aftermarket performance cam
 
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bucket

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It's been dyno proven time and time again that headers can and often produce more power and torque even on a stock motor. People can always argue the benefits of headers or manifolds based on their needs, but the fact is that headers do have their place on an otherwise stock truck.
 

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Sure they do. like 15-20 hp if you have manifold, carb, and cam on a small block. even more with larger than stock heads, flat tops and a good port job.

but for a stock 350 the biggest effect you will get is the need to rejet your carb. Maybe not so much with the shorties.
 

bucket

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Unholy76

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Thanks guys! Will probably just pull the ones on it off and redo the studs as noted.

On another note, do you know if I can change just the lock cylinder in the rear power hatch with a standard door lock cylinder. Didnt get door keys and it'd be nice to be able to operate the power window from the keyslot from outside if I can just change the cylinder...
 

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sorry I cant help with that one.
 

bucket

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Thanks guys! Will probably just pull the ones on it off and redo the studs as noted.

On another note, do you know if I can change just the lock cylinder in the rear power hatch with a standard door lock cylinder. Didnt get door keys and it'd be nice to be able to operate the power window from the keyslot from outside if I can just change the cylinder...

The rear cylinder is different, it operates a small electrical switch that's mounted directly to the end of it. You can remove it though, then take it to a lock shop and have them 'key' it to your key.
 

Unholy76

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Thanks bucket! I have a lock guy that can do this, but he charges $65, and being that I only paid $450 for the entire truck, I cant bring myself to to do this. Will probably install a hidden weatherproof switch somewhere under the rear bumper to activate. I have switches and wire already...

This is my budget, dedicated baseball vehicle. Shes only used to haul gear back and forth from the fields...
 

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Youll be lucky to get 10 years out of a set of headers.

The headers i just put on my monte had been in a chevelle since the early 80's
 

bucket

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Thanks bucket! I have a lock guy that can do this, but he charges $65, and being that I only paid $450 for the entire truck, I cant bring myself to to do this. Will probably install a hidden weatherproof switch somewhere under the rear bumper to activate. I have switches and wire already...

This is my budget, dedicated baseball vehicle. Shes only used to haul gear back and forth from the fields...

The shop I've always had key the locks only charges 25 bucks or less. That's highway robbery! :rofl:

There is another option though... just hit a local junkyard and grab every old GM door key you can find. One of them is bound to fit. And yes, I've done that before, haha.
 

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