Engine block Paint ????

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84 c10 o skool

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Need ya'll help on this.

I'm ready to paint my SBC engine bolck. Going to be black.

Just dont know what paint to use...
Some say primer some say no primer. I was going to use the VHT spray can, but now I'm not sure. Guess I'm reading to much into it.

I was told that I can use POR15 and that its better than the spray cans.

What do ya'll think..

Thanks
 

Swims350

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just buy engine enamel, made bu vht, duplicolor or rustoleum they all work just fine.

spray cans, never used por15 kind.

I've used por15 on floors and it worked fine, and frames and such, but motors I buy spray cans made for it.

No primer, no need, if you do use primer make sure it's engine enamel also.

You can clear coat it if you want once done, same thing make sure it's engine paint.
 

bucket

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I find it helps to spray a coat of primer first. Better adhesion, better coverage, and the finish ends up nicer. Just make sure it's engine enamel. Oh, the Rustoleum cans will spray upside down so that really helps if the engine is in the truck.
 

chengny

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I coat mine with POR-15. The stuff sticks forever (if the block is properly prepped) and when you are done the surface has the smoothness and toughness of black porcelain.

Don't let anyone tell you it can't handle the heat of an engine block. It is rated for 450F. I lightly coat the cylinder heads and intake manifold with it as well. Never had an adhesion problem (unless it was my fault) and I have done at least five 350's with it.

The surfaces are so smooth and hard that nothing sticks to it. Cleaning the motor is a breeze.
 

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POR 15 makes engine paint specific paint. Im sure its not cheap.

You should use some degreaser on it, then use a wire wheel or scotch brite pad and soapy lemon dish detergent water and wash the hell out of it. The cleaner the better your paint will hold up.

I was in a hurry on my last one and now its all flaking off. but its because I was lazy about cleaning it.
 

87lsxgmc

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i used some left over chassis saver on my block, that stuff dries rock hard.
 

84 c10 o skool

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Yea. Imma go with the por-15 engine enamel paint.
I got just about all the paint off the block.
Just can't get to the nook and crannies.
Like around the header bolts and plug holes, etc.
Do I have to get these areas to bare metal or will I be ok?
The hard to get to areas are scuffed but not completely to bare metal.
 

chengny

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You really should get them down to bare metal - you'll kick yourself in the ssa if you go through all this trouble and the coating starts to come off.

In those hard to clean places try:

1. Aviation grade paint stripper - Autozone, Pepboys, Advance, etc. to loosen up the old paint


2. Use these tools to dig out the paint and get the last corners clean:

A. Standard copper sweat fitting brush - Home Depot maybe $10:

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B. Pick and hook set - Harbor Freight - $1.99:

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C. A propane torch to burn any last residue out of the corners.


3. Wash down with gasoline using a stiff bristle brush. Let dry and wipe down with a rag soaked in acetone. Do this step over and over - until a wipe with a clean rag soaked in acetone shows no evidence of oil/rust/paint when wiped over the block surface. NOTE: This step takes the place of applying POR-15's Marine Clean product. It is just as effective and way cheaper.

4. When the block is clean and dry, apply the phosphoric acid (Metal Ready, Metal Prep or whatever they are calling it these days). Do this using a series of lightly misted on coats. Just as the previous coat starts to almost completely get dry, wet it down again.

Too much acid at once, will cause a flaky white coating that can actually hinder the bonding process.

When the acid is all dry, prepare all the surface that you do not want the POR-15 to coat. Use spare 3/8" bolts coated with a light (very very light) film of Vaseline or grease to protect the female threads in the sides of the block. Mask off exhaust manifold and carburetor flange faces, Use old spare oil pans, timing covers, valve covers, etc to protect areas of the block that are to remain bare metal. Use a cheap oil filter to protect that flange. Old spark plugs get some Vaseline and are lightly screwed in. Use spare freeze plugs to cover the ones in the block (you have to hold them in place while you pain around the plug bore). Pipe plugs in the sensor holes.

Here are some images showing a 350 block, with cylinder heads (temporarily bolted in place) and intake manifold that have been prepped and are ready to coat with POR-15:

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Hint: heat your container of POR-15 in a hot water bath - till it's around 120F. The product flows much, much better when hot and a can goes a lot further.

Rather than a bristle brush or a foam brush, use some cheap sponges to apply the product. Cut them up into small (2" X 2") pieces. They help get into the small crevices and last a long time.

Be SURE that the humidity is below 85%. If POR-15 is applied in high humidity conditions, it will dry too fast and you will get bubbles.
 
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84 c10 o skool

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Thanks guys for the help.

Imma go back and scrape off every inch of paint on the block.

Thanks Chengny, for advise.

will help ya'll posted
 

84 c10 o skool

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UPDATE:

Block and heads are completely down to bare metal.

See the pics.

POR-15 engine enamel BLK is on order. will paint this weekend.
 

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chengny

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Ya done good son. I am impressed.

When it comes to coating/paint systems, proper prep is crucial to a good end result.
 

MadOgre

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That looks fantastic. Should get some real good adhesion.
 

84 c10 o skool

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Hey Guys,

Here the update on the engine..

See the pics.

Sorry it took so long. havent had time to post the pics.
 

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chengny

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Looks sharp - and it will stay looking that way for a long time.
 

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That's a pretty slick coating for that aluminum intake. should work good. I like the idea of being able to wash it down easily as POR 15 is impervious to all oils and fuels.

You can get their colored engine paint as well for say doing Orange.

My oil pan keeps rusting and I think im gonna POR 15 it next time its off.
 

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