Electric Fans

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HotRodPC

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I'd say they sure should provided you have the proper size cooling capacity. I think OE BBC's came with 3 core radiators, BBC's with AC came with 4 cores. I fully intend on using them on a 454 C20 with AC.
 

anubisani

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I'd say they sure should provided you have the proper size cooling capacity. I think OE BBC's came with 3 core radiators, BBC's with AC came with 4 cores. I fully intend on using them on a 454 C20 with AC.

yea I have A/C. It stays around 180* , but in traffic or drive thru lanes it goes to 200*, with or without A/C on
 

HotRodPC

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yea I have A/C. It stays around 180* , but in traffic or drive thru lanes it goes to 200*, with or without A/C on

Yep, same as my big block 3/4 ton. It'll run even warmer in the summer time on the freeway. Maybe not anymore since I changed the out of balance balancer.
 

bucket

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can these cool a big block chevy??

If the radiator is in good shape, I think they should do fine with a BBC. I'll eventually be finding out for myself.
 

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I've got stock cooling system, 4 core with mechanical and electric fan plus aux engine oil cooler on my 454. I noticed the coolant temp really goes up when going in slow traffic. I then noticed the coolant temp sensors are in the cylinder head so any reduced flow rates really show up on the temp gauge. It's not really over temp, just hotter than the water outlet sender location that most coolant systems measure.
 

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Mine came yesterday. Much more fan than the Tarus fan I had on my last Jeep.

You must be registered for see images attach
 

HotRodPC

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I've got stock cooling system, 4 core with mechanical and electric fan plus aux engine oil cooler on my 454. I noticed the coolant temp really goes up when going in slow traffic. I then noticed the coolant temp sensors are in the cylinder head so any reduced flow rates really show up on the temp gauge. It's not really over temp, just hotter than the water outlet sender location that most coolant systems measure.

You're description is right on target with my 454. And yes, right again. It all makes sense considering the location of the temp sending units in the heads where the temp is at it's hottest. I'm perfectly fine with my 454 reading 200-210 on the gauge on hot days.

However, since I've changed my Harmonic Balancer, and put in a different USED 4 core radiator, even in this heat, it's now running 190-200. Not sure if it's cuz of better flowing radiator, which I doubt because my old radaitor and cooling system looked clean. I only changed the radiator for a leak in a seam. The truck seems to be getting fuel mileage too. I have a feeling the motor being out of balance and having that engine vibration was causing more stress on the motor and maybe had a bit to do with running warmer. No telling really cuz I also changed plug wires. That could be why the better mpg.
 

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I think as hot as it stays here in florida I might let mines stay running all the time . Is there anything wrong with doing that , bcs I was thinking of putting a 160* on switch anyway. THOUGHTS???

I think, to Me any way that, letting them run is worse for the engine than shutting down and restart, along with the extra fuel burned.
When the engine is shut down hot, it takes but about a minute or less for the engine to come back down to the normal heat range, unless there is a cooling problem or, the engine is hard to get restarted when it is hot.

There are adjustable thermostatic switches that will allow the fan to turn on at lower temps.
 

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I think as hot as it stays here in florida I might let mines stay running all the time . Is there anything wrong with doing that , bcs I was thinking of putting a 160* on switch anyway. THOUGHTS???

If airflow if adequate for cooling the motor (like on the freeway or at night), sending units will sense it and turn off the fan and your alternator and the fan itself will get a break. I tried always on in my jeep and while it worked, it's also ran when I didn't need it (when it was cool or cold the motor took a long time to warm up which leads to no or little heat blowing out of the vents or diminished gas milage). Driving on a cold engine isn't always a good thing either. The simpler problem with wiring the fan to come on with the ignition is when you're having starting problems. On a hard start you really don't want that amount of additional draw on the battery. The fan itself will finish you. Best scenario is to be able to turn them off when you need to and have them be controlled by an automated source that you don't need to think about. This thread as some great information about mounting and is worth a read if you've not done so before. The guy offers up some ideas for wiring including some schematics that you can follow. http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=267400
 

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If airflow if adequate for cooling the motor (like on the freeway or at night), sending units will sense it and turn off the fan and your alternator and the fan itself will get a break. I tried always on in my jeep and while it worked, it's also ran when I didn't need it (when it was cool or cold the motor took a long time to warm up which leads to no or little heat blowing out of the vents or diminished gas milage). Driving on a cold engine isn't always a good thing either. The simpler problem with wiring the fan to come on with the ignition is when you're having starting problems. On a hard start you really don't want that amount of additional draw on the battery. The fan itself will finish you. Best scenario is to be able to turn them off when you need to and have them be controlled by an automated source that you don't need to think about. This thread as some great information about mounting and is worth a read if you've not done so before. The guy offers up some ideas for wiring including some schematics that you can follow. http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=267400

THE WIRING is not a problem I know how to do it just wanted to know if always on will be a problem
 

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I have a question on this if I may ask.

Running an electric fan, what kind of water pump do you run
 

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