Edelbrock 1405 carb running rich

[iamtherealJayy]

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I took a frame out of the video so that I’m not the only one seeing this, I know it’s not a 7… that suffix doesn’t exist it’s just letters, but I can’t see another letter.
Edit: the only letter I can even possibly see is a Z maybe just barely.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

I think based off those numbers, it’s a 1978 Chevrolet 350. But the vin sequence in the second set of numbers doesn’t match the last numbers of the trucks vin, unless it’s the first numbers, I checked the vin and the last three were 480 not 323
Based off my searches on nastyz28 reading about engine codes, this isn’t the original engine, but I also can’t find anything saying any TK- codes showing 1978 350 in a K10, there’s one 1978 400 K10, and that’s TKL, so unless someone chimes in I’m still confused, I know the engine is a 1978 but the second set of numbers says 0 as the first instead of a 1 so would that be a GMC? Or? I’m still new to this whole decoding thing but I’m trying to match up what I can.
Edit: 305? TK in 1978 is a 305 from a firebird. Until someone puts in two extra cents I have no idea what I’m working with, the way the paint is chipped makes me think it’s an A which in 78 would be a 350. I’m just hoping I’m not working with a 305…

 

[SquareRoot]

32 pages on a rich carb. That's impressive!

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Carb isn’t running so rich now, at this point I’m just trying to figure out what this engine even is to know if the carb is even the problem anymore… thinking I should’ve just kept assuming it was a 350 lol. Because now since I can’t obviously see what that last letter is after TK, In 1978(which I know from the numbers it’s a 78) could be a 305 350 or 400 depending on if the last letter is not there, an A,F,H L could be either 350 or 400, and so on.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

TKA would be 1978, 350, “conv. cab m/t”, LS9, 165HP, 4bbl, C10/1500? Sound close?

 

[AuroraGirl]

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I think the take away is late 70s SBC. in a 78. That had a 350. youre safe

Definitely is TKA to me

 

[AuroraGirl]

I think based off those numbers, it’s a 1978 Chevrolet 350. But the vin sequence in the second set of numbers doesn’t match the last numbers of the trucks vin, unless it’s the first numbers, I checked the vin and the last three were 480 not 323
Based off my searches on nastyz28 reading about engine codes, this isn’t the original engine, but I also can’t find anything saying any TK- codes showing 1978 350 in a K10, there’s one 1978 400 K10, and that’s TKL, so unless someone chimes in I’m still confused, I know the engine is a 1978 but the second set of numbers says 0 as the first instead of a 1 so would that be a GMC? Or? I’m still new to this whole decoding thing but I’m trying to match up what I can.
Edit: 305? TK in 1978 is a 305 from a firebird. Until someone puts in two extra cents I have no idea what I’m working with, the way the paint is chipped makes me think it’s an A which in 78 would be a 350. I’m just hoping I’m not working with a 305…

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this was either TXL or TKL

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Atleast it has finally been confirmed as a 350.. not original I don’t think but atleast a 350, and everything is baby blue so far.. the heads are baby blue the water pump intake manifold, everything but the valve covers, they’re a darker blue. I need to get the whole engine bay cleaned up lol

 

[AuroraGirl]

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dont be surprised if this is what your blue looks like when done lol!

 

[Grit dog]

I got the drivers side good, I took it apart again and cleaned it better but passenger side I didn’t figure was much reason messing with until I had the donut that goes between the manifold and exhaust pipe. What’s the size I need for that? I don’t know how to measure it as I’ve never done it.

Been a while but they go by nominal pipe diameter. If the exhaust pipe is flared at the end, the manifold has the same shape recess for the donut.
Tension springs on the bolts = donut. Because they are soft material. Needs constant tension.

 

[Bextreme04]

That looked like TKA to me. Lime book has TKA as several different engines over the years including several 402's in 71 and 72, 3 different 350's in 76 78 and 80, and a 454 in 82. All of them in trucks.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Well went to start teuck today since I bought a new timing light and guess what it won’t start again. It kept puffing out of carb so I plugged the vac advance and it still was so I turned back the timing to retard it some and you could hear the starter drag some and then boom still nothing. Gotta charge the battery now. This truck refuses to start in weather below 70.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Well went to start teuck today since I bought a new timing light and guess what it won’t start again. It kept puffing out of carb so I plugged the vac advance and it still was so I turned back the timing to retard it some and you could hear the starter drag some and then boom still nothing. Gotta charge the battery now. This truck refuses to start in weather below 70.

How much are you turning this... and 70 degrees? Are you sure? because 70 degrees is quite warm... and did you pump it before starting? How are you doing the choke? Whats the firing order look like... have you taken valve covers off?

 

[iamtherealJayy]

70 was an exaggeration lol, but I don’t think the truck has ever started in cooler weather it’s about 45 today. Nope haven’t touched anything since two days ago when I brought the truck to the front yard to clean engine bay.. the distributor is moving by tapping it I’m not even turning it I’m tapping the vacuum can with a ratchet so it’s not moving much. It won’t start with timing retarded but when advanced it fired right up and runs but it starts to puff out of carb and then it’ll do one big puff and shut off.
Edit: yes once to pull choke. Truck ran longer before shutting off with choke open, with choke closed it puffed sooner and more until it shut off. With chrome open I did have the truck idling but it was a real low idle like the tachometer was around 200 tops, it barely even registered. But if I gave it throttle it would smooth out and then puff and stall. The idle screw is actually screwed in some in attempt to help it some since me touching throttle would make it run longer but it still puffed from carb a lot.

 

[AuroraGirl]

70 was an exaggeration lol, but I don’t think the truck has ever started in cooler weather it’s about 45 today. Nope haven’t touched anything since two days ago when I brought the truck to the front yard to clean engine bay.. the distributor is moving by tapping it I’m not even turning it I’m tapping the vacuum can with a ratchet so it’s not moving much. It won’t start with timing retarded but when advanced it fired right up and runs but it starts to puff out of carb and then it’ll do one big puff and shut off.
Edit: yes once to pull choke. Truck ran longer before shutting off with choke open, with choke closed it puffed sooner and more until it shut off. With chrome open I did have the truck idling but it was a real low idle like the tachometer was around 200 tops, it barely even registered. But if I gave it throttle it would smooth out and then puff and stall. The idle screw is actually screwed in some in attempt to help it some since me touching throttle would make it run longer but it still puffed from carb a lot.

so it sounds like your timing is retarded, you said you tried retarding it and it wouldnt run. that sounds like an expected result... and you choke it, it starts to run rich. retard it and choke it.. you wouldnt get it to start.

also your engine shouldnt be able to idle at 200 rpm so I wouldnt trust that. id get an inductive pickup before trusting it that low.

whats your advance weights look like, I dont recall if you ever cleaned them or fixed the worn springs or replaced the distributor because they were sloppy and sticking on top of eachother.
And and vacuum advance shouldnt be doing much for you while idling and starting. you probably have a vacuum leak on the thing especially striking the can.