Drag link limiting droop

Discussion in 'Suspension, Steering & Brakes' started by 77 K20, May 28, 2018.

  1. colonel mustard

    colonel mustard Full Access Member

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    so I forgot to take a picture. but I looked closer at my draglink. the angle follows my leaf spring arch pretty close. I remembered I called ORD cause I thought "no way can this be right". Stephen Watson told me it is and to relax. until I go cross over steering that how it is going to look. I sent him a picture of the drag link under full flex...which was a signifigant angle. he also said that was fine. and that turning would be "hard" while under full flex. that why I started piecing together cross over
     
  2. 77 K20

    77 K20 Full Access Member

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    So grabbed a old stock pitman arm off of a friend's old junk chevy truck. Installed- went for a drive.

    NO MORE BUMPSTEER!! Feels pretty good. Steering wheel is upside down and I can barely turn to the left... but was enjoying the drive for about 4 miles. Then the truck died.

    [email protected]#$#%^#$^$%%@$#!!!!!!!!

    Will start another thread about that. Had to drag it home.
     
  3. 77 K20

    77 K20 Full Access Member

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    I've never tried to adjust a drag link. I loosened the bolts on the sleeve but found it impossible to turn the sleeve to adjust it. I soaked it in penetrating oil. Hit it with a hammer. Grabbed a huge channel lock and nothing. Gave up and bought all new parts.

    Is there a special tool to spin the sleeve? (for next time)
     
  4. Blue Ox

    Blue Ox Turning Diesel Fuel Into Fun

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    There is a tool, but it's usually not required. If it's not seized from corrosion the "trick" is to grab it in such a way that you're trying to spread the coupling while turning it instead of compressing it. The tool accomplishes that by grabbing the split to turn the sleeve.

    You could try taking the link off the truck and doing a heat and beat. But sometimes time and rust win and it's best to just give up and buy new. Put plenty of anti-sieze on the new one to save the heartburn in the future.
     
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  5. dvdswan

    dvdswan Full Access Member

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    1k for crossover steering? That's really pricey IMO. 2wd steering gear, 1Ton TREs, DOM tubing and inserts, Flat top knuckle and have it milled( if you don't have one already), Steering arms for the knuckles, and assemble.

    Sorry I don't have a better picture of a D44 high steer set up on hand. 16157403_large.jpg
     
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  6. idahovette

    idahovette Full Access Member

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    If you can get to the split in the sleeve sometimes you can drive a chisel or one of your used to be good screwdrivers that you broke into the split to open it up some. Then spray with penetrating fluid and try turning it
     
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  7. bucket

    bucket Super Moderator Staff Member

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    So what's the drag link angle at now?
     
  8. 77 K20

    77 K20 Full Access Member

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    It follows the curve of the leaf spring pretty much exactly, and the bump steer is gone now.

    Plus I found that when I replaced the drop pitman arm for a stock pitman arm that my drag link was about 1.5" too short. I remember after I installed it years ago I had it aligned and the alignment shop said they had to chop down one of my drag link ends to get the drag link short enough.
     
  9. 77 K20

    77 K20 Full Access Member

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    Reid racing pass side knuckle with flat top $259
    PSC 2wd steering box $350
    2wd pitman arm, bent tie rod, tie rod ends, cone washers, studs $425

    $1,034 total

    I don't have a way to bend DOM tubing myself to clear my thick front spring packs and to clear my engine crossmember. I could save money if I could find a 2wd steering box at a junk yard, but it would probably be junk. I "saved" money when my steering box died years ago by getting a rebuilt one from O'reilly's auto. The first 2 I got were bad. I got sick of changing them out.
     
  10. dvdswan

    dvdswan Full Access Member

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    A little homework and resourcing will save you money. I'm not telling you how to spend your money just showing different options. When I did the suspension on my nissan I wasn't willing to spend 10K on a 3-link front and rear, I did a lot of research and resourcing and did it just over 5k installed by me and a shop. some new some used. Yes it was still a lot of money but in the end I have 5.13 gears with ARB lockers front and rear, chromoly axles, 14" of travel front and rear, high steer setup, drivelines, and hell of fun play toy.
     
  11. climb-101

    climb-101 Full Access Member

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    why not just get a new steering box from a parts store. that’s what i didn’t and it was around $130. i got my other parts from DIY4x. crossover is a much better way to go
     
  12. 77 K20

    77 K20 Full Access Member

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    I haven't had good luck with local parts store part. Price is great, quality sucks. I went thru 2 steering boxes from Oreilly's before I got one that finally worked.

    Guess I'm just lucky like that.
     
  13. colonel mustard

    colonel mustard Full Access Member

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    so how much did you spend on your cross over? I have also been pricing it our as it will be my next upgrade. I have a spare knuckle ill be sending to offroad design for machining (75$)
     
  14. climb-101

    climb-101 Full Access Member

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    it wasnt too bad, i dont remember exactly what it cost since i got a lot of other stuff. I did the cross over steering along with a new tie rod (you can use the stock one), I also got the parts to modify the steering box for ram assist steering, B52 kit, dana 60 front cover for ram assist,

    just the cross over kit is $370 and a new steering box is $130 so about $500 to switch to cross over. well worth it if you ask me, call up kurt at DIY4X, he knows a ton about these trucks and great to deal with. also he has some videos on youtube if you serch for diy4x. might answer some questions also

    http://diy4x.com/product.php?productid=17834&cat=249&page=1
     

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