Double wall exhaust system, anybody do it ?

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mtnmankev

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A excellent condition square... what kind of black magic is this? :lol:

It's an Arizona truck that came from a ranch in California away from the salt water air.
NO rust on the body, and normal oxidation on the steel frame and running gear parts.
It's an absolute pleasure to work on compared to trucks that come from areas where road salt is used .......
Sorry, eat your heart out, I only paid $1500 for it with the performance Goodwrench 350 and tons of brand new spare parts.
 

jake wells

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It's an Arizona truck that came from a ranch in California away from the salt water air.
NO rust on the body, and normal oxidation on the steel frame and running gear parts.
It's an absolute pleasure to work on compared to trucks that come from areas where road salt is used .......
Sorry, eat your heart out, I only paid $1500 for it with the performance Goodwrench 350 and tons of brand new spare parts.
my square doesn't have any rust either just dings and bubbling paint but it came from el paso. i traded a mossberg bolt action shotgun for it.
 

mtnmankev

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No dings on mine and the paint is in excellent shape.
Just a small dent in the driver's door that should pop out real easy.
 

mtnmankev

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Wix #33041 or Napa #3041 fuel filter have the return Frankenchevy spoke about.

3/8”, 3/8”, ¼” vapor

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From what I found when searching for the filter, that one should be 33040, the 33041 has the return fitting coming out of the filter shell about halfway down the housing at a 90 degree angle, but I'm sure both perform the same task.

And at 20 dollars for either one, it damn sure better cure the problem, I have never in my life paid 20 bucks for a gas filter.
And it's special order from the Phoenix warehouse (2 in stock in Phoenix).
 

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$6.82 for the Wix version on Amazon.
 

mtnmankev

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$6.82 for the Wix version on Amazon.

Thank you, kind sir .... I can fit that into the budget, and I ordered one tonight.
I will keep the forum posted how things work out with everything I am trying in order to get the truck running right.
It's a fun truck to drive and I miss getting it out on the highway and let it stretch its legs.
This truck forces me to keep an eye on the speedometer, I can be cruising about 70 and I look at the speedo and I'm going anywhere from 85 to 90+ because it knows I'm not looking and it wants to boogie and get away from me.
 

Grit dog

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You’re welcome.
Sounds like an awesome truck!
You do have a return line to the tank(s) correct?
I think I’d put the filter with the return as close to the carb as possible. That way you’re constantly cycling fuel ( however much is in the tank) as close to completely through the fuel system As possible.

However I think there is something else in play here. Think about the 1000s or 1000000s of carbureted engines running in hot weather for decades. They didn’t automatically and predictably vapor lock. I don’t know what it is though, as you said all lines are fairly distanced/ protected from heat source, exhaust.
Maybe the pump? I know it’s new, but you said cooling the pump helps immediately
Good luck solving the mystery
 

mtnmankev

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The truck had a 3 line mechanical pump, so yes, there is a return line I can plug into.
I need to make sure the other end is attached to the tank selector solenoid.
After 4+ years of driving with the Mr Gasket electric pump is when I started having the issues, but nothing else had been changed on the truck that I can point the blame at.
It just started doing it.
And cooling the Mr Gasket pump made it so fuel would flow again, as does the new pump from NAPA.
I'm wondering if the engine is simply putting off too much heat, even though it isn't running hot as indicated by the temp gauge.
If I drive it in the winter when it's 50 degrees or colder ambien
The other issue it has developed is loss of dash and running lights.
No power through the fuseblock to those circuits, and I have heard heat can cause electrical failure in the engine compartment side of the fuse block.
I have a wiring harness to put in the cab including a pristine fuse block.
I still need to locate the under hood harness in pristine shape and swap them both out at the same to have lights again.
 

80BrownK10

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When the truck "runs out of gas" and coasts to the side of the road, I spray the electric pump with a water bottle, and it starts pumping plenty of gas to the carb, I would say that indicates a vapor lock.
There's no such thing as a cheap electric pump, they all start at 50 bucks and go from there.
The brand new one I got at NAPA a week ago set me back 80 dollars.
10% of my monthly income.
Sure there is, you can get the cheapest clicketty clack off eBay for like $6-8. I wouldn't run it long term but plenty good for a week or two of testing.
 

80BrownK10

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What's weird is, I have driven the truck for 4 years with no issues using an electric pump, those motorhome mufflers and ethanol gas.
Until last summer when it started acting up on days above 50 to 60 degrees.
This goes to what Wander is saying. That pump is getting old and heat sensitive and breaking down and possibly loosing a connection or possibly getting weak when hot, and not able to keep up?

If it were me I'd throw a $7 clicketty clack in there!
 

Bextreme04

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i had a 83 s10 about 10 years ago with a electric pump that would vapor lock after driving on the highway turned out if i opened the gas cap a little it would start pumping fine because the tank didn't vent at all.

This was my first thought too. There should be no way that you are generating enough heat that far from the engine. You could have clogged vents that are causing the pump to get hotter and hotter as it tries to overcome the pressure. Next time it happens, crack the gas caps and see if you get a sudden pressure release. The caps should be vented and you should also have a vent in the sending unit.
 

mtnmankev

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I had to go into town today for a load of water, speeds never went above 35 mph.
On the final leg driving back in, the engine quit due to no gas in the carburetor.
The fuel pump had been clacking loudly most of the trip.
I checked the temperature of the pump : 138 degrees.
Sprayed with water to cool it down to about 110 and it started pumping gas again.
There was noticeably less heat under the truck due to the heat wrap on the exhaust system, so I ruled that out as a cause.
The Wix filter with return fitting should be here in a week, I will install it then and see if that cures the issue.
 

80BrownK10

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I had to go into town today for a load of water, speeds never went above 35 mph.
On the final leg driving back in, the engine quit due to no gas in the carburetor.
The fuel pump had been clacking loudly most of the trip.
I checked the temperature of the pump : 138 degrees.
Sprayed with water to cool it down to about 110 and it started pumping gas again.
There was noticeably less heat under the truck due to the heat wrap on the exhaust system, so I ruled that out as a cause.
The Wix filter with return fitting should be here in a week, I will install it then and see if that cures the issue.
138f is not that hot!! I think the pump is worn out?? Heck sitting out in the sun it can see one easily getting 125f here 8n SC even , let alone out there in Arizona!
 

mtnmankev

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138f is not that hot!! I think the pump is worn out?? Heck sitting out in the sun it can see one easily getting 125f here 8n SC even , let alone out there in Arizona!

The pump is less than 2 weeks old, and only has maybe 100 miles on it.
And it was hot enough to vapor lock.
When I cooled it to about 110, it pumped gas again.
 

80BrownK10

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The pump is less than 2 weeks old, and only has maybe 100 miles on it.
And it was hot enough to vapor lock.
When I cooled it to about 110, it pumped gas again.
What size fuel line?

I guess like someone said it has to do with the electric pump? I would think my mechanical pump would easily be 140 degrees hanging on the side of the engine block here in the hot southern heat on a 98f degree day. I don't vapor lock.
 

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