Door speaker wiring

[Snoots]

Is that Satin Black?

 

[Kenneth W Larew]

Is that Satin Black?

Yes it is. The wheel wells are a bit more glossy. I believe they are all painted with por15

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[Kenneth W Larew]

So the current dilemma is ...
I priced new factory door conduit and rivets from lmc... not too bad. Problem is identifying where to drill into the cab side of the door frame. The doors themselves will be easy as there is a factory backer plate inside the door I can see. I'm pretty sure I can actually drill those holes from the inside out. On the cab side though, I have no identifying marks or location. I assume there is a backing plate there as well....but where? I cannot see that part of the from from inside the cab looking under the dash. It appears there is a reinforcing plate I can feel when I stick my hand inside the vent that keeps me from feeling inside the door frame. I really don't want to drill an errant whole. Any ideas? Anyone have a factory installed door conduit circa 1985 and can shoot me some measurements?
Thanks
Ken

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[Craig 85]

I thought you could not mount speakers in the door because the window would hit them inside? I was expecting to have to use some sort of spacer to cure this. Is it really this easy?

You can mount a 6" round speaker in the door if you have power windows. I had an '87 with them. You just have to install them at the extreme front bottom corner. I'll be doing the same thing with my '85 when it comes time to install the stereo.

 

[Blue Ox]

So the current dilemma is ...
I priced new factory door conduit and rivets from lmc... not too bad. Problem is identifying where to drill into the cab side of the door frame. The doors themselves will be easy as there is a factory backer plate inside the door I can see. I'm pretty sure I can actually drill those holes from the inside out. On the cab side though, I have no identifying marks or location. I assume there is a backing plate there as well....but where? I cannot see that part of the from from inside the cab looking under the dash. It appears there is a reinforcing plate I can feel when I stick my hand inside the vent that keeps me from feeling inside the door frame. I really don't want to drill an errant whole. Any ideas? Anyone have a factory installed door conduit circa 1985 and can shoot me some measurements?
Thanks
Ken

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I don't know how helpful this will be. It's hard to measure anything with the door attached. But here's a couple of images to give you an idea.

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It's the same height as the one in the door. Let me know if there's something specific you want me to measure and I'll try to do it for you.

 

[Craig 85]

One thing to add, if you look at the first photo in the previous post there is a notch in the leading edge of the door. This prevents chafing of the boot. It's just below the hinge and above the boot. This is the height at which the boot should be mounted.

 

[Kenneth W Larew]

I don't know how helpful this will be. It's hard to measure anything with the door attached. But here's a couple of images to give you an idea.

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It's the same height as the one in the door. Let me know if there's something specific you want me to measure and I'll try to do it for you.

That helps a ton! does it look like the center of the boot is straight in line with the center of the door sensor?

 

[Blue Ox]

I'll look this afternoon.

 

[Blue Ox]

That helps a ton! does it look like the center of the boot is straight in line with the center of the door sensor?

Yes. The pic shows it a little high, but by eyeball I'd say it is exactly centered with the switch.

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The rear edge of the flange is about 1" from the bend in the door frame, the front of the flange is maybe 1/4" at best from the edge of the pillar.

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Hope that makes sense.

 

[Kenneth W Larew]

Yes. The pic shows it a little high, but by eyeball I'd say it is exactly centered with the switch.

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The rear edge of the flange is about 1" from the bend in the door frame, the front of the flange is maybe 1/4" at best from the edge of the pillar.

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Hope that makes sense.

Makes perfect sense. Parts are ordered. Thanks to everyone for the help.

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[Snoots]

Of course, this doesn't excuse you from posting progress pics.

 

[Kenneth W Larew]

Of course, this doesn't excuse you from posting progress pics.

Roger that...

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[Wyttrash]

I did this same project in the winter. Take the doors off, it’ll be way easier. Both the doors and the door jambs should be stamped for that accordion hose thing. Mine actually had dimples in the center so I didn’t have to use a center punch. I think I only drilled them 1/4” and used parts store rubber grommets and a piece of split conduit to hide the wire. To keep the wire from getting tangled in the window mechanism I just ran it under the sound deadening mat.

 

[Kenneth W Larew]

I did this same project in the winter. Take the doors off, it’ll be way easier. Both the doors and the door jambs should be stamped for that accordion hose thing. Mine actually had dimples in the center so I didn’t have to use a center punch. I think I only drilled them 1/4” and used parts store rubber grommets and a piece of split conduit to hide the wire. To keep the wire from getting tangled in the window mechanism I just ran it under the sound deadening mat.

Sometimes I make things too complicated. I bought factory conduit to keep things "stock". I did feel the door jambs and think I spotted the stamping so I should be good to go. Soon as I get thr parts I'll finish this up. I'm going to clear the cab and sound proof the floor and up the back a bit tomorrow.

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[Snoots]

Don't forget to paint any cuts you make, especially the inside of the jamb and door.